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Dreaming To Be A Famous Photographer


buttakkal

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it depends on the SLR lens and the particular DSLR...it would help if you could be more specific.

 

For Canon cameras, as long as the lens is an EF mount (canon lenses that have auto-focus), yes they can be used on ANY DSLR

 

For Nikon, not all auto-focus lenses can be used, especially if you're planning to use it on a D40 or D40x

 

For Minolta auto focus lenses, you can still use them on the Sony Alpha cameras, or the older (and defunct) Konica-Minolta Maxxum DSLRs.

 

For Olympus and Panasonic, I would have to say that you're out of luck. those cameras use an entirely new line of lenses (4/3s or four-thirds mount)

 

I'm not sure about Pentax cameras though... never had a Pentax SLR... don't know anyone who has...

 

the lens is minolta. so a lens only works for its own brand's body?

 

meron po kac dad ko slr. lumang luma n. cguro may 10+ years old n to. it has not been used for a long time already, ok p b to? d nmn cguro to nasira noh?

 

question, are there people still using slrs?

 

i don't have an digicam but i have interest in photography. ok b n buy ng dslr agad? plano ko enroll ng photography class sa summer.

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the lens is minolta. so a lens only works for its own brand's body?

 

meron po kac dad ko slr. lumang luma n. cguro may 10+ years old n to. it has not been used for a long time already, ok p b to? d nmn cguro to nasira noh?

 

question, are there people still using slrs?

 

i don't have an digicam but i have interest in photography. ok b n buy ng dslr agad? plano ko enroll ng photography class sa summer.

 

 

Yes, your minolta lens will only work on Minolta bodies. Check to make sure that your Minolta lens is auto-focus. If it is, then you can probably use it on the newer Sony Alpha DSLRs. If it's manual focus only, then your out of luck, as that lens will only work on manual-focus Minolta SLRs.

 

There are still some people who use film SLRs, as film still has its advantages over digital. Many photographers switched to digital mainly to improve their workflow for demanding deadlines. when it comes to personal projects, some people go back to film. I know some classes actually encourage the newbies to start with film cameras first before jumping to DSLRs.

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Hi i dunno if i could call myself a photographer, but i can say that i'm a hobbyists. I love taking pictures and i just carry my camera anywhere i go.

 

Here's the thing, some girl just message me in my email.

"Alessia C." < alessiacce@gmail.com > wrote:

 

Just wanted to know if you would be interested in doing a shoot?

I'm coming to CT in a week for 3 weeks.

Visiting family, so figured why not.

 

Do you have myspace or facebook account?

 

Also, how long have you been shooting for?

 

Me, I'm 18, 5'5 brown hair, busty (32D-natural), firm/toned body.

Will do implied nudity, but not full.

 

Let me know and please respond ASAP.

I'm gonna contact other photographers, but you're the first one.

 

Thanks,

 

Alessia

 

I do have a camera, but i really don't have any equipments or so. I would love to do a photoshoot with this chick but what could i tell her?should i accept this?

Edited by hunk2376
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The only difference between zooms & primes are 'manual & auto' zooms... with primes you have to zoom in or out manually... meaning you'll have to walk towards or away from your subject... hehehehe :P

 

The one I recommended (12-24mm / f4 - Tokina) is a great UWA lens. Very minimal distortion compared to its UWA counterparts for half the price of its Nikon equivalent :thumbsupsmiley:

 

 

thanks for the recommendation....i'll find that one...and try if its compatible

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I am thinking of purchasing a Nikkor 85mm 1.8, or a 60mm 1.8 macro, prime for portraits. Has anyone used this or any feedbacks? I want to use this for indoor gigs or outdor portraits. Lastly, what filter do you guys use for protraits? Something for skin tone and blemish reduction.

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correct me if im wrong, so when you're using prime lenses, you'll not be able to "zoom in" or "zoom out" your subject?

what's the spec of the lense you recommend for me to buy (for wide angle lense)? yung tipong ang vertical or hirzontal lines

dont appear to be straight lines.. yung nagcucurve na sila..thanks

 

The only difference between zooms & primes are 'manual & auto' zooms... with primes you have to zoom in or out manually... meaning you'll have to walk towards or away from your subject... hehehehe :P

 

The one I recommended (12-24mm / f4 - Tokina) is a great UWA lens. Very minimal distortion compared to its UWA counterparts for half the price of its Nikon equivalent :thumbsupsmiley:

 

He wanted one that "yung nagcucurve na sila". So for him, what you recommended, which is a RECTILINEAR lens is not what he asked for. He is better off with a really short (8-10mm) fisheye lens.

 

it depends on the SLR lens and the particular DSLR...it would help if you could be more specific.

 

For Canon cameras, as long as the lens is an EF mount (canon lenses that have auto-focus), yes they can be used on ANY Canon DSLR

 

For Nikon, not all auto-focus lenses can be used, especially if you're planning to use it on a D40 or D40x

 

For Minolta auto focus lenses, you can still use them on the Sony Alpha cameras, or the older (and defunct) Konica-Minolta Maxxum DSLRs.

 

For Olympus and Panasonic, I would have to say that you're out of luck. those cameras use an entirely new line of lenses (4/3s or four-thirds mount)

 

I'm not sure about Pentax cameras though... never had a Pentax SLR... don't know anyone who has...

 

A prime lens has only ONE focal length. A zoom is a variable focal length lens, meaning you can change the focal length. So the answer is no, you cannot change focal lengths with a prime lens. The advantage of a prime, however, isthey tend to be muc, much sharper, with better color characteristics, than any zoom ever made.

 

Generally, you can only use a lens of a certain manufacturer on one brand of camera (usually the same brand, so Nikon with Nikon, Minolta with Minolta/Sony (Minolta sold out to Sony a couple of years ago), Canon with Canon, Pentax with Pentax, Olympus with Olympus. Some makers have been updating the lens mounts so that older lenses can no longer be used. No so with Pentax that will take ANY K-mount Pentax lens. You do lose some features (a non-AF lens will NOT autofocus, for example).

 

I would NOT count out using old Oly lenses with the new DSLRs - depends on the lens cverage and lens mount. Best to try it to find out.

 

the lens is minolta. so a lens only works for its own brand's body?

 

meron po kac dad ko slr. lumang luma n. cguro may 10+ years old n to. it has not been used for a long time already, ok p b to? d nmn cguro to nasira noh?

 

question, are there people still using slrs?

 

i don't have an digicam but i have interest in photography. ok b n buy ng dslr agad? plano ko enroll ng photography class sa summer.

 

I still use SLRs. I have a Canon A-1, a REALLY OLD Pentax S2a, and a Nikon FM2n. I also use rangefinders - I have 2 Leicas, an M3SS and an M6. Also an SLR but mediun format (uses 120 film) - I also have a Hasselblad 500CM. In all, I have ONE DLSR (a Pentax *istDL, and yes it will take ALL K-mount Pentax SLR lenses, includeing the old non-AF lenses!) and over 25 film cameras, all of which are still in good shape and that I use depending on the situation.

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I am thinking of purchasing a Nikkor 85mm 1.8, or a 60mm 1.8 macro, prime for portraits. Has anyone used this or any feedbacks? I want to use this for indoor gigs or outdor portraits. Lastly, what filter do you guys use for protraits? Something for skin tone and blemish reduction.

 

The 85mm Nikkor is a really nice lens design - uses the old Tessar lens formula, making it a very sharp lens design. However, with a DSLR and the "multiplcation effect" that would be like a 125mm lens, whiight be a little long for portraits. In that case, I'd go with the 60mm, although I like the perspective of the85 much, much better. It will flatten out the image and reduce barrel distortion, as well as reducing any foreshortening effects if you have the camera tilted down for any reason.

 

A note on the "multiplcation effect" of lenses on DSLRs. You DO NOT really multiply the focal length by 1.5 or 1.6 (depending on your camera). And an aperture of f/2.8remains f/2.8. What happens is that most lenses designed for 35mm cameras have a coverage of at least 45mm (the diagonal of a frame of 35mm film). Most digital sensors (with the exception of the high-end "Full-frame" sensors) are much smaller, so they do not fill the whole circle of coverage, rather they fill a smaller part of the circle of coverage. As a result, they capture as much image area as a lens 1.5x the focal length would capture on 35mm film. Let me repeat - focal length, aperture, distortion, depth of field, etc. DO NOT CHANGE. Only the image capture area changes.

 

Now to filters for portraits to reduce skin blemishes. Try a green filter. Also try the "soft focus" filters you can sometimes buy (an alternative would be to take a UV filter and smear a VERY light coating of Vaseline on the front).

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He wanted one that "yung nagcucurve na sila". So for him, what you recommended, which is a RECTILINEAR lens is not what he asked for. He is better off with a really short (8-10mm) fisheye lens.

 

Oh shoot... I misread that part...

 

Re: fisheyes... I often see 10mms being used often... I think they prefer that over the others... no idea why tho... never used one... hehehe

 

 

Merry Christmas master ^_^

 

 

 

Found a fisheye pano image... enjoy ^_^

 

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/353865875_78e8a6d0b0.jpg

Edited by Phrozhen.Khold
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The 85mm Nikkor is a really nice lens design - uses the old Tessar lens formula, making it a very sharp lens design. However, with a DSLR and the "multiplcation effect" that would be like a 125mm lens, whiight be a little long for portraits. In that case, I'd go with the 60mm, although I like the perspective of the85 much, much better. It will flatten out the image and reduce barrel distortion, as well as reducing any foreshortening effects if you have the camera tilted down for any reason.

 

A note on the "multiplcation effect" of lenses on DSLRs. You DO NOT really multiply the focal length by 1.5 or 1.6 (depending on your camera). And an aperture of f/2.8remains f/2.8. What happens is that most lenses designed for 35mm cameras have a coverage of at least 45mm (the diagonal of a frame of 35mm film). Most digital sensors (with the exception of the high-end "Full-frame" sensors) are much smaller, so they do not fill the whole circle of coverage, rather they fill a smaller part of the circle of coverage. As a result, they capture as much image area as a lens 1.5x the focal length would capture on 35mm film. Let me repeat - focal length, aperture, distortion, depth of field, etc. DO NOT CHANGE. Only the image capture area changes.

 

Now to filters for portraits to reduce skin blemishes. Try a green filter. Also try the "soft focus" filters you can sometimes buy (an alternative would be to take a UV filter and smear a VERY light coating of Vaseline on the front).

 

Hey man thanks soooo much ulit! I was thinking of getting the 18-200 VR but a rendezvous with a pinoy photogrpaher here days ago and intense research made me think of getting a prime than a zoom. I will lose AF when I use this on my D40 that would be favorable to me, a good time to learn manual focus. I read 3 feet is the closest focus range, that would be enough for me.

 

Here are my samples on my recent trip to town, kit lens only. I'm a sucker for portraits

post-11844-1198483017.jpg

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Oh shoot... I misread that part...

 

Re: fisheyes... I often see 10mms being used often... I think they prefer that over the others... no idea why tho... never used one... hehehe

 

 

Merry Christmas master ^_^

 

 

 

Found a fisheye pano image... enjoy ^_^

 

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/353865875_78e8a6d0b0.jpg

 

 

thanks for the picture.. i think that is what im reffering to... i really appreciate it.. fish eye indeed..

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Hey man thanks soooo much ulit! I was thinking of getting the 18-200 VR but a rendezvous with a pinoy photogrpaher here days ago and intense research made me think of getting a prime than a zoom. I will lose AF when I use this on my D40 that would be favorable to me, a good time to learn manual focus. I read 3 feet is the closest focus range, that would be enough for me.

 

Here are my samples on my recent trip to town, kit lens only. I'm a sucker for portraits

post-11844-1198483017.jpg

 

Despite great advances in computerized lens design and manufacturing, I still tend to stay away from zooms that exceed 3-4x in range. A 10:1 zoom such as the 18-200mm tends to have lots of distortion at each end, chromatic aberrations at the extremes, and a very distinct loss of sharpness (but then again, with digital, who can tell??? I can, and worse, on film, I'd REALLY see the sifference!) overall. For a snapshot kind of lens, I guess that would be fine, but for something that I would spend real time with, I'd go with a prime or a zoom with a range of 3-4x, no more.

 

VR is good for hand-held candid shooting in dim light, but I still bring a tripod with me whenever I want to do any work I will be critical about, so the lack of VR hasn't stopped me yet!

Edited by agxo3
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