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Dreaming To Be A Famous Photographer


buttakkal

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currently am reading this book from Canon entitled "Eye of EOS" which comes bundled when you buy Canon 350d back then but mine was given by my good friend who had this book also given by his friend who bought it in SG.. it has this guide/tips how to adjust the aperture, shutter, iso and lots of canon lens guide for specific usage. better check it out on the web or canon distributor there in SM north.

 

eydol, pwede bang mahiram yang book na yan pag uwi mo? tamang tama yan sa camera ko.

Edited by tyger
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Copy the manual? Who, me? I don't need to copy the manual. I KNOW what each of these modes mean. I've been doing digital photography since 1991 - one of my cameras (the Apple QuickTake150) is in the NY Museum of Modern Art as an example of good design, and I own a couple of patents in digital photography. I've been doing photography since 1969 - I process my own film and do my own printing, both film and digital. And I was on the IT8 committee that defined the first ICC color profiles. I HAVE posted some of my shots. Do some back reading, why don't you? I'll go down any rathole talking about photography that you want to - try me any time! But be prepared to back up anything you say with solid technical data!

 

Since you have mentioned about the ICC color profile, I have a question. I have been exposed to the printing industry and I am curious abot the LAB, RGB, and the CMYK color profiles. What are thier differences? Why can't it be just one color system? Or is it like the MP3 industry, each organization/company makes thier own system? I have only rudimentary information about them.

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Since you have mentioned about the ICC color profile, I have a question. I have been exposed to the printing industry and I am curious abot the LAB, RGB, and the CMYK color profiles. What are thier differences? Why can't it be just one color system? Or is it like the MP3 industry, each organization/company makes thier own system? I have only rudimentary information about them.

 

LAB is not a color profile. More accurately, it's L*a*b*, and it's a system of color coordinates that allows you to plot color in a 3-dimensional representation. l* refers to the luminance, or brightness of the color. a* and b* are the color information plotted on a 2-dimensional plane.

 

RGB is also a system of representing color using the three ADDITIVE colors - red, green, blue. All TRANSMISSIVE colors are made up of these three primary colors. This, for example, is how your CRT or plasma type TV generates color. One way to see this is by using a prism to break up white light into the primary colors.

 

Which leads us to CMY (and K). C=cyan. M=magenta. Y=yellow. These are also primary colors, but in a subtractive (or REFLECTIVE) color system. This is what is used in printing. Why is there a "K" component? K=black. The reason for K is that no dye or pigment is perfectly pure, and mixing all three will never give you a pure black or even a neutral grey. The mixture will tend to have a color tinge os some hue or another. Also, you can't get really good contrast using just C, M, and Y.

 

So you generate K, which is black, to make sure you get the deep, rich blacks you need for true color and good contrast. There are a couple of ways to generate the K component. The most popular is UCR, or Under Color Removal, in which the common component between C, M and Y is removed (either all of it, as in 100%, or some percentage of it, as little as 10%) and is replaced by the equivalent K, or black. GCR is another method. Similar effect but with a slightly different algorithm. Most people use UCR.

 

An ICC profile is a mapping of a wide range of colors - various tones of the primaries, both additive and subtractive, as well as colors in between - against an idealized color space. This is then mapped to the color gamut (the complete range of colors) of the ink set you are using. Using a 4x4 matrix (or sometimes UCR plus a 3x3 matrix), the original color values are transformed so that you have color values that you can send your printer to print a more accurate rendition of the source (or original image) color. You can also use ICC profiles to make your monitor more accurate (in this case a simple 3x3 matrix is used).

 

For good color reproduction and consistency, you should always calibrate both your monitor and your printer regularly - every month for your monitor, every time you change inks on your printer. Always use the same color space as your embedded color space for your images. consistency makes for better color and grey scale rendition and a more predictable workflow.

 

It can't be ONE system because the primary colors, and the behavior and characteristic of color, are different for additive color as opposed to subtractive color.

 

Hope this helped.

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Bro Kap, On your caption sa kabila you mentioned corals. If your'e going for the reflections and swirly patterns of the water then the pic works... But if you were meaning to let the other viewers see the colorful and beautiful corals that you've seen 'neath the surface, then perhaps employing a Cicular Polarizing Filter would help in letting us experience what you saw :) If you generally shoot outdoors and do scenics, skies, and bright subjects, perhaps using the CPL in place of the customary UV/Haze filter as a lense protector may not be a bad idea :) It can also be stacked ontop your choice of lense protector filter.

 

@fire breather

 

tnx bro fire...i was actually focusing on the patterns...though there were unwanted reflections that could have been minimized by ur suggestion...il tke that into account nxt time....

 

@agxo3

 

sir...m glad to meet or at least be on the same thread with someone like you....isa ka na palang alamat at institusyon sa potograpiya!hehehe. it was even a decade away before i was born yet when u started the craft.... :thumbsupsmiley: hail to the master! do you have a site or links of your photos archives?

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yes it helped. right on! thanks.

 

only the calibration part for the monitor and printer I do not know yet. I know my laptop's LCD is directly connected to the video card so there is no signal loss, but how do you do that to a CRT monitor?

 

Signal loss isn't the issue - color fidelity and gamma are the issues. An LCD is an additive system, using a white background light source and colored filters to produce the colors. A CRT is also an additive system but uses light emission from phosphors on inside front surface of the CRT to produce the colors. A CRT tends to be brighter than an LCD because the light is actually generated by the phosphors while in an LCD, you start with a light source and put filters in front of it, thus cutting the brightness of the light.

 

To calibrate your system, you really need a combination of hardware and software - Macbeth and a few others make calibration equipment. For home system use, it usually runs $300-400. You display a target and use a "spider" to read the patches on the monitor. This tells the computer how your monitor behaves and creates the ICC profile for the monitor. You scan a target in and the program computes the scanner profile. Then you print the target and scan it back in. The program computes the ICC profile for the printer. Now you have profiles for your display, your scanner and your printer.

 

For good color fidelity (which is important for a good image) you really need to calibrate your system. I fyou use a CRT monitor, calibrate once a month. For an LCD, every 3 months should be sufficient.

 

But this is one reason I very, very rarely post images. I have NO control over how the image is displayed on viewers' screens, and no idea how their screens are set up. So I have no idea how my image will look to them. Will it be too dark? Or too light? Or too red? Or too blue? Or too green? Who knows? Therefore I cannot know if people looking at my images are seeing what I want them to see. So unless it's a work in progress that will still change, or a simple snapshot, I don't post a lot. The problem is less with b/w images, so most of what I've posted are b/w, not color.

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..... - Macbeth and a few others make calibration equipment. For home system use, it usually runs $300-400.

 

Is there any major differences, thereby advantages and disadvantages of one over the other, between the "Spider" puck-type (Colorvision Spyder) and the "Pen-type" (Huey Pantone) calbrators?

I am in the process of aquiring H/W and S/W for calibrating my LCD, printer and scanner and would greatly appreciate any inputs to help me make a wise decision? Thanks!

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eydol, pwede bang mahiram yang book na yan pag uwi mo? tamang tama yan sa camera ko.

sure eydol basta ikaw.. :thumbsupsmiley:

pina-ship out ko pa ung book nung naiwan ko sa pinas pero dadalhin ko pbalik dahil request mo.. :rolleyes:

 

Guys... not to discourage you from posting photos... but could you please follow the guidelines in posting photos?

 

matagal magload yung page if you guys are posting large photos... thanks

i agree with eydol PK the budding photo enthusiast that wanna upload their pics here as much as possible

reduce the pictures to 640 x 480 pixels before posting for faster loading of the thread.

how to reduce?

  • MS Paint - goto Image->Resize/Skew (ctrl+W) then resize both vertical & horizontal (by percentage)
  • MS Office 2003 or later - use MS Office Picture Manager then goto edit photo and use the resize function
  • other available photomanager/editors like ACDsee, Lightroom, Photoshop, etc. has their own batch resize that is, if your planning to post 2 or more pictures here

 

Cooperation lang mga friends :)

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@Master Agx03

thank you sa in depth insight about color calibration and stuff, like ICC profiles, I usually see those profiles in monitors/adapter driver settings and Photoshop but didn't bother to check what the heck was that.. :rolleyes:

I also see those advertisement on monitor-printer calibration devices pero parang mahal kasi since hobby lang nman ito, unless pinagkakakitaan na yung mga shots at least may balik yung mga pundar mo hehehe :P

 

post-13480-1195659219.jpg

 

anyways here's my not so latest shots here while i was attending a party here at zouk KL. :)

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Is there any major differences, thereby advantages and disadvantages of one over the other, between the "Spider" puck-type (Colorvision Spyder) and the "Pen-type" (Huey Pantone) calbrators?

I am in the process of aquiring H/W and S/W for calibrating my LCD, printer and scanner and would greatly appreciate any inputs to help me make a wise decision? Thanks!

 

I'd look at both and pick the one that's easier to use for you. Fro the most part, both work just as well as the other, and given the color gamut of most monitors, scanners and printers, the differences will be small and largely unnoticed. One experiment you might want to run is to see what your monitor, scanner and printer do when they encounter out-of-gamut colors - do they truncate the data and give you false colors? Do they peg to the closest reproducible color? Do they overrun and cause sever artifacts (I saw one system many years back that did this - the designer just assumed EVERYTHING would be in-gamut and did not comprehend the fact the nature is unpredictable.)

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I'd look at both and pick the one that's easier to use for you. Fro the most part, both work just as well as the other, and given the color gamut of most monitors, scanners and printers, the differences will be small and largely unnoticed. One experiment you might want to run is to see what your monitor, scanner and printer do when they encounter out-of-gamut colors - do they truncate the data and give you false colors? Do they peg to the closest reproducible color? Do they overrun and cause sever artifacts (I saw one system many years back that did this - the designer just assumed EVERYTHING would be in-gamut and did not comprehend the fact the nature is unpredictable.)

 

Appreciate the reply. Will do just what you recommended :D Cheers!

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