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Dreaming To Be A Famous Photographer


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I am thinking of purchasing a Nikkor 85mm 1.8, or a 60mm 1.8 macro, prime for portraits. Has anyone used this or any feedbacks? I want to use this for indoor gigs or outdor portraits. Lastly, what filter do you guys use for protraits? Something for skin tone and blemish reduction.

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correct me if im wrong, so when you're using prime lenses, you'll not be able to "zoom in" or "zoom out" your subject?

what's the spec of the lense you recommend for me to buy (for wide angle lense)? yung tipong ang vertical or hirzontal lines

dont appear to be straight lines.. yung nagcucurve na sila..thanks

 

The only difference between zooms & primes are 'manual & auto' zooms... with primes you have to zoom in or out manually... meaning you'll have to walk towards or away from your subject... hehehehe :P

 

The one I recommended (12-24mm / f4 - Tokina) is a great UWA lens. Very minimal distortion compared to its UWA counterparts for half the price of its Nikon equivalent :thumbsupsmiley:

 

He wanted one that "yung nagcucurve na sila". So for him, what you recommended, which is a RECTILINEAR lens is not what he asked for. He is better off with a really short (8-10mm) fisheye lens.

 

it depends on the SLR lens and the particular DSLR...it would help if you could be more specific.

 

For Canon cameras, as long as the lens is an EF mount (canon lenses that have auto-focus), yes they can be used on ANY Canon DSLR

 

For Nikon, not all auto-focus lenses can be used, especially if you're planning to use it on a D40 or D40x

 

For Minolta auto focus lenses, you can still use them on the Sony Alpha cameras, or the older (and defunct) Konica-Minolta Maxxum DSLRs.

 

For Olympus and Panasonic, I would have to say that you're out of luck. those cameras use an entirely new line of lenses (4/3s or four-thirds mount)

 

I'm not sure about Pentax cameras though... never had a Pentax SLR... don't know anyone who has...

 

A prime lens has only ONE focal length. A zoom is a variable focal length lens, meaning you can change the focal length. So the answer is no, you cannot change focal lengths with a prime lens. The advantage of a prime, however, isthey tend to be muc, much sharper, with better color characteristics, than any zoom ever made.

 

Generally, you can only use a lens of a certain manufacturer on one brand of camera (usually the same brand, so Nikon with Nikon, Minolta with Minolta/Sony (Minolta sold out to Sony a couple of years ago), Canon with Canon, Pentax with Pentax, Olympus with Olympus. Some makers have been updating the lens mounts so that older lenses can no longer be used. No so with Pentax that will take ANY K-mount Pentax lens. You do lose some features (a non-AF lens will NOT autofocus, for example).

 

I would NOT count out using old Oly lenses with the new DSLRs - depends on the lens cverage and lens mount. Best to try it to find out.

 

the lens is minolta. so a lens only works for its own brand's body?

 

meron po kac dad ko slr. lumang luma n. cguro may 10+ years old n to. it has not been used for a long time already, ok p b to? d nmn cguro to nasira noh?

 

question, are there people still using slrs?

 

i don't have an digicam but i have interest in photography. ok b n buy ng dslr agad? plano ko enroll ng photography class sa summer.

 

I still use SLRs. I have a Canon A-1, a REALLY OLD Pentax S2a, and a Nikon FM2n. I also use rangefinders - I have 2 Leicas, an M3SS and an M6. Also an SLR but mediun format (uses 120 film) - I also have a Hasselblad 500CM. In all, I have ONE DLSR (a Pentax *istDL, and yes it will take ALL K-mount Pentax SLR lenses, includeing the old non-AF lenses!) and over 25 film cameras, all of which are still in good shape and that I use depending on the situation.

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I am thinking of purchasing a Nikkor 85mm 1.8, or a 60mm 1.8 macro, prime for portraits. Has anyone used this or any feedbacks? I want to use this for indoor gigs or outdor portraits. Lastly, what filter do you guys use for protraits? Something for skin tone and blemish reduction.

 

The 85mm Nikkor is a really nice lens design - uses the old Tessar lens formula, making it a very sharp lens design. However, with a DSLR and the "multiplcation effect" that would be like a 125mm lens, whiight be a little long for portraits. In that case, I'd go with the 60mm, although I like the perspective of the85 much, much better. It will flatten out the image and reduce barrel distortion, as well as reducing any foreshortening effects if you have the camera tilted down for any reason.

 

A note on the "multiplcation effect" of lenses on DSLRs. You DO NOT really multiply the focal length by 1.5 or 1.6 (depending on your camera). And an aperture of f/2.8remains f/2.8. What happens is that most lenses designed for 35mm cameras have a coverage of at least 45mm (the diagonal of a frame of 35mm film). Most digital sensors (with the exception of the high-end "Full-frame" sensors) are much smaller, so they do not fill the whole circle of coverage, rather they fill a smaller part of the circle of coverage. As a result, they capture as much image area as a lens 1.5x the focal length would capture on 35mm film. Let me repeat - focal length, aperture, distortion, depth of field, etc. DO NOT CHANGE. Only the image capture area changes.

 

Now to filters for portraits to reduce skin blemishes. Try a green filter. Also try the "soft focus" filters you can sometimes buy (an alternative would be to take a UV filter and smear a VERY light coating of Vaseline on the front).

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He wanted one that "yung nagcucurve na sila". So for him, what you recommended, which is a RECTILINEAR lens is not what he asked for. He is better off with a really short (8-10mm) fisheye lens.

 

Oh shoot... I misread that part...

 

Re: fisheyes... I often see 10mms being used often... I think they prefer that over the others... no idea why tho... never used one... hehehe

 

 

Merry Christmas master ^_^

 

 

 

Found a fisheye pano image... enjoy ^_^

 

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/353865875_78e8a6d0b0.jpg

Edited by Phrozhen.Khold
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The 85mm Nikkor is a really nice lens design - uses the old Tessar lens formula, making it a very sharp lens design. However, with a DSLR and the "multiplcation effect" that would be like a 125mm lens, whiight be a little long for portraits. In that case, I'd go with the 60mm, although I like the perspective of the85 much, much better. It will flatten out the image and reduce barrel distortion, as well as reducing any foreshortening effects if you have the camera tilted down for any reason.

 

A note on the "multiplcation effect" of lenses on DSLRs. You DO NOT really multiply the focal length by 1.5 or 1.6 (depending on your camera). And an aperture of f/2.8remains f/2.8. What happens is that most lenses designed for 35mm cameras have a coverage of at least 45mm (the diagonal of a frame of 35mm film). Most digital sensors (with the exception of the high-end "Full-frame" sensors) are much smaller, so they do not fill the whole circle of coverage, rather they fill a smaller part of the circle of coverage. As a result, they capture as much image area as a lens 1.5x the focal length would capture on 35mm film. Let me repeat - focal length, aperture, distortion, depth of field, etc. DO NOT CHANGE. Only the image capture area changes.

 

Now to filters for portraits to reduce skin blemishes. Try a green filter. Also try the "soft focus" filters you can sometimes buy (an alternative would be to take a UV filter and smear a VERY light coating of Vaseline on the front).

 

Hey man thanks soooo much ulit! I was thinking of getting the 18-200 VR but a rendezvous with a pinoy photogrpaher here days ago and intense research made me think of getting a prime than a zoom. I will lose AF when I use this on my D40 that would be favorable to me, a good time to learn manual focus. I read 3 feet is the closest focus range, that would be enough for me.

 

Here are my samples on my recent trip to town, kit lens only. I'm a sucker for portraits

post-11844-1198483017.jpg

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Oh shoot... I misread that part...

 

Re: fisheyes... I often see 10mms being used often... I think they prefer that over the others... no idea why tho... never used one... hehehe

 

 

Merry Christmas master ^_^

 

 

 

Found a fisheye pano image... enjoy ^_^

 

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/353865875_78e8a6d0b0.jpg

 

 

thanks for the picture.. i think that is what im reffering to... i really appreciate it.. fish eye indeed..

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Hey man thanks soooo much ulit! I was thinking of getting the 18-200 VR but a rendezvous with a pinoy photogrpaher here days ago and intense research made me think of getting a prime than a zoom. I will lose AF when I use this on my D40 that would be favorable to me, a good time to learn manual focus. I read 3 feet is the closest focus range, that would be enough for me.

 

Here are my samples on my recent trip to town, kit lens only. I'm a sucker for portraits

post-11844-1198483017.jpg

 

Despite great advances in computerized lens design and manufacturing, I still tend to stay away from zooms that exceed 3-4x in range. A 10:1 zoom such as the 18-200mm tends to have lots of distortion at each end, chromatic aberrations at the extremes, and a very distinct loss of sharpness (but then again, with digital, who can tell??? I can, and worse, on film, I'd REALLY see the sifference!) overall. For a snapshot kind of lens, I guess that would be fine, but for something that I would spend real time with, I'd go with a prime or a zoom with a range of 3-4x, no more.

 

VR is good for hand-held candid shooting in dim light, but I still bring a tripod with me whenever I want to do any work I will be critical about, so the lack of VR hasn't stopped me yet!

Edited by agxo3
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question po

 

aside from the price, what would be the other differences between a canon EOS 400D from 40D?

 

spot metering

better build quality (dust seals)

bigger and brighter viewfinder

faster auto-focus (supposedly)

more auto-focus points

5 frames per second (compared to the 3 fps of the 400d)

Live View mode

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  • 2 weeks later...

It would be my first time to post in this thread as I have been backreading... anyways, an uncle of mine bought a Yashica FR II in 1977 or 78, used it for a while and then forgot that it existed. My mom kept it in a dark corner of our house and when I found it, it was pretty f#&ked up. It looks like a sandstorm went through in there and wreaked havoc. It also has molds and oxidation inside the body and in the lens, the film advance lever is stuck, the timer lever is loose, the hotshoe is broken, and i'm pretty sure there are other things messed up in there. Any of you guys ever had a camera this f#&ked up fixed in Hidalgo? I'm hoping it still can be fixed so i can use it again, thank you in advance for any info on having this Yashica fixed.

post-19037-1200145052.jpg

post-19037-1200241285.jpg

 

 

here are some photos i took with my point and shoot...

late at night coming out of a convenience store near our place...

post-19037-1200145186.jpg

 

testing the macro function of the point and shoot while having a beer...

post-19037-1200145213.jpg

Edited by insomniac
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i think you're beter off just buying a used film SLR. Having it repaired is going to cost about the same thing. I learned this the hard way....Had my old minolta cleaned and repaired by the local distributor about 5 years back. it cost about 7K then. Nowadays, that's the cost of a used film SLR with modern electronics, auto-focus, and light metering.

 

It would be my first time to post in this thread as I have been backreading... anyways, an uncle of mine bought a Yashica FR II in 1977 or 78, used it for a while and then forgot that it existed. My mom kept it in a dark corner of our house and when I found it, it was pretty f#&ked up. It looks like a sandstorm went through in there and wreaked havoc. It also has molds and oxidation inside the body and in the lens, the film advance lever is stuck, the timer lever is loose, the hotshoe is broken, and i'm pretty sure there are other things messed up in there. Any of you guys ever had a camera this f#&ked up fixed in Hidalgo? I'm hoping it still can be fixed so i can use it again, thank you in advance for any info on having this Yashica fixed.

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i think you're beter off just buying a used film SLR. Having it repaired is going to cost about the same thing. I learned this the hard way....Had my old minolta cleaned and repaired by the local distributor about 5 years back. it cost about 7K then. Nowadays, that's the cost of a used film SLR with modern electronics, auto-focus, and light metering.

 

 

well, it cost you 7K because you had it fixed by the local distributor of the brand. i brought the cam to hidalgo in quiapo and i was told that the cleaning of the body and the lens together with the fixing of the shutter would set me back 1,300. its a nice deal for me. and i'm not having it fixed because of anything but sentimental value. anyway, thank you for your insight, and i am actually planning to buy another camera.

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Here's my share... some of my firsts. (newbie pa lang)

 

 

 

My first try at black and white.

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2374/2097926175_78a79b4e25.jpg

 

 

First try at shooting the sunset (forgive the elec. wires, didn't have time to post process).

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2075/2195241303_2f2c5aeb43.jpg

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well, it cost you 7K because you had it fixed by the local distributor of the brand. i brought the cam to hidalgo in quiapo and i was told that the cleaning of the body and the lens together with the fixing of the shutter would set me back 1,300. its a nice deal for me. and i'm not having it fixed because of anything but sentimental value. anyway, thank you for your insight, and i am actually planning to buy another camera.

 

Actually, I was wondering why it cost so much, so I found the old receipt, and found out they had to replace the prism and several parts of the shutter assembly and something related to the internal metering, which they had to order from japan. it wasn't just simple cleaning, it was pretty much a rebuild / refurbishing. your old SLR may have survived the neglect in better condition than mine.

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hi masters....

 

what shop in hidalgo do you buy your equipment from?

 

i'm planning to buy a new lens and medyo kinakabahan ako kasi mahal...

 

thanks...

 

mayer's and henry's usually...but if you're looking for a canon lens, i suggest you run to the nearest Canon D-zone or camerahaus because they've got a lot of lenses on sale until the end of January (dapat hanggang 15th lang, but they opted to extend the sale). The advantage of buying at Canon is the local warranty because some of the lenses bought at Hidalgo don't have local warranty...you'll have to return it to the shop you bought it from and they'll be the ones to arrange for it to be fixed.

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would it be much cheaper in hidalgo?

 

last time i checked 50k + sa cannon mega mall eh....

 

d ko lang alam kung magkano sa hidalgo.

never been there pa kasi...

 

i'm planning to buy this

 

 

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM

or

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS

 

 

me idea kayo masters kung magkano sa hidalgo?

 

thanks...

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would it be much cheaper in hidalgo?

last time i checked 50k + sa cannon mega mall eh....

d ko lang alam kung magkano sa hidalgo.

never been there pa kasi...

 

i'm planning to buy this

 

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM

or

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS

 

 

me idea kayo masters kung magkano sa hidalgo?

 

thanks...

 

These are the Canon lenses on sale

(from another forum)

 

 

EF 24-70 LU

SRP=71,550 SALE=50,700

 

EF 24-105/4 ISU

SRP=66,250 SALE=47,500

 

EF 70-300 ISU

SRP=40,300 SALE=28,500

 

EF 70-200 F4 L U

SRP=41,350 SALE=29,250

 

EF 28-105 U II

SRP=12,000 SALE=8,475

 

EF 70-300 U III

SRP=10,500 SALE=7,425

 

EF 28-105 U

SRP=9,800 SALE=6,900

 

EF 28-135 ISU

SRP=25,450 SALE=18,000

 

EF-S 10-22

SRP=38,100 SALE=27,000

 

EF 70-200 F4 ISU

SRP=63,500 SALE=44,963

 

EF 70-200 2.8 L U

SRP=71,550 SALE=50,625

 

 

I'm not sure which shops in Hidalgo are participating in the promo, if there are any.

For what it's worth, the 24-70L was going for around 62K at Hidalgo several months ago. This can give you an estimate on how much the difference there is between Hidalgo prices and products from the official Canon distributor.

 

Personally, if I was going to get a telephoto lens, I would go for the 70-200 F4 IS. I'm not sure if Canon will extend the sale any more past Jan 31, since na-extend na yung sale since Jan 15.

 

Your best bet is Canon D-Zone MOA or Trinoma. Meron din Canon D-Zone sa North Edsa Carpark and Glorietta Level 4.

Walang kwenta yung Canon sa Megamall.

Edited by thirteen
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