Jump to content

Dreaming To Be A Famous Photographer


buttakkal

Recommended Posts

@ yomar: Nice addition on the Depth of Field...thanks for the comment on the garden too, it's actualy our backyard which backs to a natural reserve hence the trees in the background beyond the fence :)

 

@ psycho_g:

No hassle here and part of learning is practicing. Hopefuly yung mga samples and tips na mapulot mo dito at sa shutterbugs thread can help. Here are 3 pics of same subject at different time of day and coresponding camera settings used na sana ay makatulong sa original question mo tungkol sa diff. apertures and shutterspeeds sa umaga, hapon o gabi. Also, If you look into the eye piece of your SLR there should be indicators (like +, -, or red/green dots, bars - depending on camera model) that gives you information whether you have correct exposure or not. Then play with the aperture and shutter settings till it gives you exact or near "green" or "correct" reading. This is what I did with the below pics (I have no formulas :) ) Again, I'm no expert so pardon my words. Like you I simply shoot, practice and shoot and practice some more :D Cheers!

 

a. 9AM -bright sky (38mm, f/9.5, 1/350, ISO 100)

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z215/Krimson07/38mm_f9_5_9am_s1_350.jpg

 

b. 6PM - cloudy & drizzling (38mm, f/4.8, 1/90, ISO 100)

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z215/Krimson07/38mm_f4_8_6PM_s1_90.jpg

 

c. 10:30 PM - cloudy evening (38mm, f/3.5, 1/2, ISO 200)

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z215/Krimson07/38mm_f3.jpg

Edited by fire_breather
Link to comment
as much as i wanted to try shooting with different apertures, slr lng kasi camera ko. ang gastos magshoot ng bracketing. thats why im asking these questions. i hope my questions are not that much hassle...but thanks for those who reply.

 

Most SLRs let you select your aperture, so you should have no problem with that.

 

A couple of tips -

1) to maintain the same exposure but change aperture, for every step you change your aperture you change a step in your shutter speed. For example - if your meter says the right exposure is 1/250 sec @ f/4 but you want more depth of field, then you can go to f/5.6 at 1/125 sec., or f/8 @ 1/60 sec. Conversely, if your meter says the right exposure is 1/250 sec at f/11 and you want LESS depth of field then you can use f/8 @ 1/500 sec or f/5.6 @ 1/1000 sec.

2) for lanscapes, most of the time I try to shoot with the smallest possible aperture - on my 4x5 cameras that means going to f/64 or even f/128. There are times when you want to blur the background or foreground but that is unusual in a landscpe. The reason you want to get as much depth of field in a landscape is because our eyes unconciously adjust for focus, so whenever you look at a grand lanscape EVERYTHING looks to be in focus. Therefore for a photo to LOOK natural, you hav to get as much DOF as possible!

 

 

Unfortunately, trial and error is still the best way to learn. However, you should try to do it in a very controlled manner so you don't waste too much film.

 

Some suggestions for things to try -

1) pick a scene that has BOTH near and far object, but do try to get more range than the previous example. Try to get something close (about 6 feet away) and something medium distance (say, 20 feet) and something at infinity. Set the focus to infinity (DO NOT AUTOFOCUS!!!) Pick the right exposure as a reference, then change aperture and shutter speed up and down as I indicated earlier. Make sure you keep a GOOD record of your exposures. This will illustrate for you VERY CLEARLY the effect of aperture.

2) pick a scene with a fast moving object, such as an electric fan set on the slowest possible speed. Focus carefully, then lock the focus. Find the right exposure and take a picture of the moving fan blades. Try to get a range of speeds from at least 1/30 sec to 1/1000 sec. You should see the effect of shutter speed. Note than in BOTH these exapmles you should have a constant exposure in all your negatives.

 

Other things you should do with a film camera -

 

1) pick only a few films to use. I would pick no more than 4 films, a B/W ISO100 film, a B/W ISO400 film, and the same for color.

2) Then pick a lab to use, and be CONSITENT. Always use the same lab. Get to know the lab technician so he knows you and will eventually try to be more careful in processing your film.

 

At another time we'll talk about finding your true exposure index for your films.

Link to comment

omg!! another lesson i learned..kala ko sira light meter ko!!! un pla ayos..kaya ayun..underexposed ung ibang shots ko...waaaaaaa..pero ok lng..atleast ngyn alam ko na pano gamitin at alam ko na ayos..haha...

 

uu nga pla...do you guys use a tripod pag alam nyong night shoot kayo?...

Link to comment
omg!! another lesson i learned..kala ko sira light meter ko!!! un pla ayos..kaya ayun..underexposed ung ibang shots ko...waaaaaaa..pero ok lng..atleast ngyn alam ko na pano gamitin at alam ko na ayos..haha...

 

uu nga pla...do you guys use a tripod pag alam nyong night shoot kayo?...

 

If nakaplano... Di lang sa night shots but also when you know that you'll shoot in conditions that may need slow shutter speeds, or shooting with big lenses to help with balance and control shakiness, also when planning a serries of shots for panoramic stitching, and also when you like to be in the shot :D

Link to comment
If nakaplano... Di lang sa night shots but also when you know that you'll shoot in conditions that may need slow shutter speeds, or shooting with big lenses to help with balance and control shakiness, also when planning a serries of shots for panoramic stitching, and also when you like to be in the shot :D

 

whats a panoramic stitching? and whats an orton effect? (from the shutterbugs thread but no one answered)

 

meron pla akong balak, kasi plgi nlng ako gumagamit ng iso 100 na film..and hirap n hirap ako magshoot kapag ang onti ng light available. its either i use flash or dont shoot at all kasi the shutter speed my lightmeter asks is too slow to be handheld..and hirap din magpractice ng panning sometimes kasi plging underexposed ung sinasabi ng lightmeter...i cant uses 1/2000 to freeze the moving object.

 

should i start using iso 400 films pero ok lng b iso 400 kapag morning shots?.. and quoting arrow: "The advantage of shooting with a high ISO setting is that you can produce pictures even if light source is limited. The disadvantage is that pictures become grainy or noisy." any views about this?

 

and does 1/15 already needs a tripod? or kaya pa hawakan?

 

hopefully makapgupload ako ng pics ko for comments. may film scan pla na mura. hehe.

Link to comment
whats a panoramic stitching? and whats an orton effect? (from the shutterbugs thread but no one answered)

 

meron pla akong balak, kasi plgi nlng ako gumagamit ng iso 100 na film..and hirap n hirap ako magshoot kapag ang onti ng light available. its either i use flash or dont shoot at all kasi the shutter speed my lightmeter asks is too slow to be handheld..and hirap din magpractice ng panning sometimes kasi plging underexposed ung sinasabi ng lightmeter...i cant uses 1/2000 to freeze the moving object.

 

should i start using iso 400 films pero ok lng b iso 400 kapag morning shots?.. and quoting arrow: "The advantage of shooting with a high ISO setting is that you can produce pictures even if light source is limited. The disadvantage is that pictures become grainy or noisy." any views about this?

 

and does 1/15 already needs a tripod? or kaya pa hawakan?

 

hopefully makapgupload ako ng pics ko for comments. may film scan pla na mura. hehe.

Using ISO 400 film wont be a problem for daylight shots as long as you've set the camera to use ISO 400 film so the camera can adjust accordingly. It only becomes an issue if you decide to blow up the photo to a very large size (i think around poster size) that the graininess of the film will be noticeable. But up to 8x10 size you won't notice it.

 

Before I got a digital camera, I was always using ISO 400 since I'd usually just order 4R or 5R prints, and I took indoor, sports and outdoor pictures most of the time. I was looking for ISO 800 and 1600 film before but it's expensive and hard to find. Only Fuji carried it, and only a very small number of stores sold it.

 

From experience with a film camera and a 1/15 shutter speed, I suggest you use a tripod already. Film is too expensive to waste. At least with a DSLR you can see right away if your hand shook while taking the shot.

Link to comment

i want to learn photography..

 

unfortunately i have no basics, san and cno kaya ang best place to learn the basics...

 

im after someone who can mentor me.. baka kc yung iba puro lectue eh parang classroom...

 

any ideas... thanks

 

pa pm sana or contact me para i can get in touch...

 

baldo

Link to comment
whats a panoramic stitching? and whats an orton effect? (from the shutterbugs thread but no one answered)

meron pla akong balak, kasi plgi nlng ako gumagamit ng iso 100 na film..and hirap n hirap ako magshoot kapag ang onti ng light available. its either i use flash or dont shoot at all kasi the shutter speed my lightmeter asks is too slow to be handheld..and hirap din magpractice ng panning sometimes kasi plging underexposed ung sinasabi ng lightmeter...i cant uses 1/2000 to freeze the moving object.

should i start using iso 400 films pero ok lng b iso 400 kapag morning shots?.. and quoting arrow: "The advantage of shooting with a high ISO setting is that you can produce pictures even if light source is limited. The disadvantage is that pictures become grainy or noisy." any views about this?

 

and does 1/15 already needs a tripod? or kaya pa hawakan?

hopefully makapgupload ako ng pics ko for comments. may film scan pla na mura. hehe.

 

1/15...depende kung gaano ka ka steady at kung meron kang puwedeng sandalan gaya ng nabanggit ni agxo3 previously.

 

Bro...yung ORTON effect, nag-bigay ng link si Niteowl on page 49 ng Shutterbugs thread.... pero heto ulit yung link for your reading ORTON EFFECT :)

 

As for Panoramic stitching, gaya ng sabi mo... pictures digitally joined together to form one big panoramic picture of a place or any subject that is wide... Below is an example of 7 pics stiched together (pic reduced to 1024x195 pixels to fit screen). The original stiched-up file was 14,129 x 2,698 pixels :)

 

Buda-Danube-Pest Panorama (Has not been refiend yet so some join areas are vissible)

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z215/Krimson07/Buda-Danube-Pest_panorama_01.jpg

Edited by fire_breather
Link to comment
wyvern: why do you need it? that's probably the first question you should answer. As I do not know what type of photography you are into.

 

Just a hobbyist, mostly nature, cityscape, some portraits. but i ditched the idea already, will save up for a dslr na lang.

Link to comment
Using ISO 400 film wont be a problem for daylight shots as long as you've set the camera to use ISO 400 film so the camera can adjust accordingly. It only becomes an issue if you decide to blow up the photo to a very large size (i think around poster size) that the graininess of the film will be noticeable. But up to 8x10 size you won't notice it.

 

Before I got a digital camera, I was always using ISO 400 since I'd usually just order 4R or 5R prints, and I took indoor, sports and outdoor pictures most of the time. I was looking for ISO 800 and 1600 film before but it's expensive and hard to find. Only Fuji carried it, and only a very small number of stores sold it.

 

From experience with a film camera and a 1/15 shutter speed, I suggest you use a tripod already. Film is too expensive to waste. At least with a DSLR you can see right away if your hand shook while taking the shot.

 

The new ISO400 films should not have too much grain, especially the color films. What you see in color film really isn't grain anyway - the silver is completely replaced by dyes which clump in a totally different way and tend top have much finer structures than silver salts. The real restriction is in trying to blow up a 35mm negative (which is really only 24mm x 36mm) to or beyond the point where the grain (in b/w) or dye (in color) structures become evident. When that happens you begin to lose the tonal relationships in the image because the "grey" (or tone of color) you see is really NOT a true "grey" but really a bunch of small black dots (the grain) on a white field. Because of their small size, the eye integrates the area around the dots and what you see is the average brightness of the area. More dots (grain) means it will be darker.

 

How's the best way to see this effect more clearly? Look at a newspaper and take a look at the b/w pictures. Take a VERY CLOSE look. You will see that the greys are really made up of black dots on a white paper. In a newspaper or other commercially printed publication, the dots are in a regular array - evenly spaced. In film they're not. they are random. However, the effect is the same.

 

NOW look at an image printed on your home printer. Use a magnifier. You will see something similar, kinda between the newspaper and the film. Irregularly shaped dots like film grain, but a regular spacing and pattern like the newspaper. An ink jet printer can only put down a color of ink, not shades of that color. The various shades or tones are achieved by varying the size of the clumps of ink dots that are sprayed on to the paper. Also, note that your printer will have somewhere between 4 (for the lower priced printers) and 8 (for the high priced printers) inks. How then do they get ALL those wonderful colors? Well, they're made up of combinations of the various shades of the different inks. And now, we are straying into color science....and unless you're prepared to wade thorugh some math that's beyond algebra, we will stop here. And this is the end of the lecture for tonight. Nighty-night!

Link to comment

mga sir tanong ko lang kasi balak kong bumili ng digital camera na medyo maganda naman at pang matagalan , do you have any idea kung anong magandang camera. may nakita akong olympus sp510 mukhang slr pero i would like to know kung may other options pa ako besides that before I buy it. thanks

Link to comment

My less-than-amatuer attempts at making a portrait on my D40. Please give me some C&C, beat me up real good. I need it.

 

 

http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/5471/husseinam8.jpg

 

And agxo3 can you indulge us with the number crunching? I am yearning for some learning.

Link to comment
hey guys may tanong ulit ako..

 

bkt ung ibang shots ko blurred kahit na nakatripod or fast shutterspeed gamit ko?...kahit na tao or inanimate object ung kinukuhanan ko...ano reason bkt ganun?..

 

 

Can you share some pics. Include mo na rin settings for everyone to see. :)

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...