Who Is Into Scale Modelling?

[jamboree168]

yun ang wala ko patient....kaya nagbebenta na lang me.....

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Buddy are you a seller or distrbutor or collector?

If you are selling maybe I can pass you some of my collectors series? WHat kind of potential buyers do you have?

1. collector's------simple average price 30 to 0 US$ only

2. collector's------average average price 50 to 100 US$ only

3. collector's------serious average price sky the limit.

 

You can help me sell my collections if you got serious buyers in your hand and in return I can give you around 10 percent of the seal sales.

 

 

my collections items mostly limited toys, series by year and by artist.

other collections are scouting uniform and items around the world (price depends on the year and quantity it have produce)

Badges

[Yu-gi-oh]

ocational seller hope to be distributor and a collector

[Dr_PepPeR]

You should always try to eliminate gaps and seams as much as you possibly can. To fill the gaps, most often you will need some filling material, or model putty.

 

Different modelers swear by different brands of putty, but some of the most common brands are Tamiya and Italeri Stucco Putty. They are both readily available in hobby stores and can be used straight out of the tube.

 

Other ones (such as Milliput) are so called two-component epoxy putties where two fluids must be mixed to correct proportions before you can use them.

 

Which one you like the most is really up to your personal preferences and their intended usage. For general gap filling I recommend single component putties, as they are quite easy to use.

 

Model putty doesn't just adhere to the plastic like play-doh, but it contains chemicals (most often toluene) that will slightly melt the plastic surface so the putty can become almost a part of the plastic itself. Very effective indeed, but you should be aware of the fact that toluene is a highly toxic chemical. It is needless to say that you should have plenty of ventilation around your working space when working with hazardous chemicals.

 

To apply the putty, just put a dab on a knife, and wipe it along the seam to get an even coverage without bubbles or lumps. Don't apply more putty than what's absolutely necessary, or you will just have to wait longer for it to dry and have more work sanding off the excess.

 

This method works best on larger areas that need to be filled. For minor filling work or for filling in areas that are hard to reach, there is a better method. Mix a little acetone (nail polish remover) and putty in a small container, such as a Coke bottle cap. The mix should be quite thin, because it will thicken incredibly fast as the acetone evaporates.

 

Use a cheap brush to "paint" the mix on where needed. You will find that the mix runs very easily into all the cracks and nooks you want to fill.

 

When the gaps have been filled and the putty is dry, you are in for a boring but nevertheless necessary task; you must now sand the filled joins. Start with 800 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper and gradually work you way down to 1200 or even 1500 grit sandpaper.

 

Be very careful not to sand off too much plastic, or you may ruin the subtle shapes of your model. Take frequent breaks and check the parts under a strong light source so you can spot the rough areas still in need for some sanding. Keep the sandpaper wet all the time, or you may end up with ugly and hard-to-remove scratches on the plastic surfaces.

 

As you sand off the excess putty, you will notice that the putty has almost become a part of the plastic and conceals the gap very effectively. Since all putty has a slight tendency to shrink and crack, you may find small cracks and tiny bubbles in the putty. Just put on another thin layer of putty to fill these tiny imperfections and sand it flush one more time.

 

When you feel happy about the filled areas, wash the model under running water to remove all the sanding residue. I sometimes even use a Scotch Brite pad to carefully rub off the most stubborn sanding particles.

 

Even if the putty probably has a different color than the plastic parts, it will not be visible once the model has been painted. But it may make it quite hard to spot remaining cracks and imperfections.

[floppydrive]

One technique I use in checking if there are small holes yet to be filled when filling gaps with putty or super glue is to use a black marker. After sanding the filled section, I run a marker pen lightly over the sanded area, let the ink dry (dries very fast, so just a short wait), then sand the marker ink off. The ink will fill in the holes and gaps, so it's now easy to see where to fill in.

 

Anyone interested in Metalizers? I still have a few bottles.

[Dr_PepPeR]

One technique I use in checking if there are small holes yet to be filled when filling gaps with putty or super glue is to use a black marker.  After sanding the filled section, I run a marker pen lightly over the sanded area, let the ink dry (dries very fast, so just a short wait), then sand the marker ink off.  The ink will fill in the holes and gaps, so it's now easy to see where to fill in.

 

Anyone interested in Metalizers?  I still have a few bottles.

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You can also spray it with silver and any imperfections will really show up, use any silver spraycan.

 

I'm looking for SNJ silver for baremetal finishes.

[Yu-gi-oh]

Buddy are you a seller or distrbutor or collector?

If you are selling maybe I can pass you some of my collectors series? WHat kind of potential buyers do you have?

1. collector's------simple    average price 30 to 0 US$ only

2. collector's------average  average price  50 to 100 US$ only

3. collector's------serious    average price sky the limit.

 

You can help me sell my collections if you got serious buyers in your hand and in return I can give you around 10 percent of the seal sales.

my collections items mostly limited toys, series by year and by artist.

other collections are scouting uniform and items around the world  (price depends on the year and quantity it have produce)

Badges

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Do u have pics so I can display it.

 

U only accept USD no PHP?

[moxman]

How can you create those Sea Water Effects for Ship models?

[Yu-gi-oh]

gud am guys......

[buttakkal]

You can also spray it with silver and any imperfections will really show up, use any silver spraycan.

 

I'm looking for SNJ silver for baremetal finishes.

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Nice advice there, Dr. Pepper....

 

as a returning hobbyist....nangangapa ako sa pag pintura ng models ko. Now natapos ko na ma-buo ang eroplano (bi-plane) im using putty (as u advised) to fill the gaps. Whats the next step? do i apply paint primer? ano ba ang silver paint na sinasabi mo?

 

btw...how come iba ang price sa Lil's Parksquare (medyo mahal) keysa sa ibang outlets?

 

thanks for the good advice!

[Dr_PepPeR]

Nice advice there, Dr. Pepper....

 

as a returning hobbyist....nangangapa ako sa pag pintura ng models ko.  Now natapos ko na ma-buo ang eroplano (bi-plane) im using putty (as u advised) to fill the gaps.  Whats the next step? do i apply paint primer?  ano ba ang silver paint na sinasabi mo?

 

btw...how come iba ang price sa Lil's Parksquare (medyo mahal) keysa sa ibang outlets?

 

thanks for the good advice!

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Saludo din ako sa yo! Takot ako sa biplanes, may phobia ako sa rigging eh.

 

The next step is thoroughly cleaning your model to prepare it for the paint. If you are painting it with a light color and the plastic is dark, it might be good to apply a basecoat or primer of light gray. It isn't necessary to put primer, basically your basecoat will act as one. A primer will provide better coverage for hobby paints though. I usually primer with Painter's Touch spraycans, since these are relatively cheaper than the Tamiya spray cans (I used to get Painter's Touch at P140 per can), then use Tamiya acrylics over it.

 

The only other outlets Lils has is the one in Megamall and one in Southmall. Ask them for a discount if you pay in cash.

 

Keep on modelling!

Edited May 10, 2006 by Dr_PepPeR

[Dr_PepPeR]

How can you create those Sea Water Effects for Ship models?

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Calm water is easy, just paint the base green/brown and apply gloss clear paint over it.

 

For sea water effects it is a bit more difficult. You have to use a sculpting medium, like sculpey, milliput, plaster of paris etc, and try to form the waves, then paint it appropriately, using white for the froth. One of the simpler ones I've seen was using resin, like the way they used to make the decorations for papier mache vases. You mix the fluid resin together, apply color to it then pour it into the base a few layers at a time (you have to do it in stages so that the plastic kit embedded in it will not melt). After pouring the top layer, put crumpled aluminum foil over it, this will simulate the ripple effect of a vast expanse of sea. Let it cool and viola! Seawater effect!

Edited May 10, 2006 by Dr_PepPeR

[buttakkal]

Dr. Pepper idol talaga kita di ka lang sa chicks matinik pati sa modelling hehehehe....

 

tanong pare....okay pa rin ba gumamit ng brush...medyo old school yon e...classic ika nga...(pero i know spray is the best and easier way)

 

tanong no.2 pare....me iba ka bang name dito sa MTC...isa sa mga dating batang SL? hehehe...

[Dr_PepPeR]

Dr. Pepper idol talaga kita di ka lang sa chicks matinik pati sa modelling hehehehe....

 

tanong pare....okay pa rin ba gumamit ng brush...medyo old school yon e...classic ika nga...(pero i know spray is the best and easier way) 

 

tanong no.2 pare....me iba ka bang name dito sa MTC...isa sa mga dating  batang SL? hehehe...

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Bro, iba yata kakilala mo eh, di ako matinik sa chicks, kulang nga eh hehehe...

 

Up to now I still prefer using a brush for the following reasons:

 

1. Nakakatamad mag set up ng airbrush.

2. Nakakatamad mag linis ng airbrush.

3. Hindi ka pwede mag airbrush sa loob ng bahay.

4. I find that using washes/tints make more realistic finishes. Since I am primarily an armor modeller, my builds are heavily weathered. I can do big area washes and pinpoint washes with different sized brushes. And I always paint in layers. Brushing may not cover everything in one pass, but since I always to several coats of paint, it doesn't matter. Most of the time I use a spraycan to primer anyway, and priming it helps ensure good coverage when you use brushes.

5. You can only do detail painting with brushes.

 

I used to have another name here but I had to ditch it when somebody got really makulit. Visiting faculty lang ako sa SL, sabi sa yo di naman ako matinik noh?

[buttakkal]

huling tanong na lang (for now) boss doctor pepper....

 

anong brand ng primer ang recommendation mo?

 

pag 1/72 scale ba kelangan pa mag primer? hehehe...sorry beginner talaga ako sa pintura eh...hehehe.

[Dr_PepPeR]

huling tanong na lang (for now) boss doctor pepper....

 

anong brand ng primer ang recommendation mo?

 

pag 1/72 scale ba kelangan pa mag primer?  hehehe...sorry beginner talaga ako sa pintura  eh...hehehe.

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Sir buttakkal, a primer is not a must, a base coat, kahit hindi even ang pagkabrush, OK lang if you are one of those who layers paint.

 

For primers, I would suggest lacquers, most commonly found in spraycans. Lacquers are "hot"paints, meaning they bite/react into the plastic and therefore do not flake or rub off. Tamiya lacquer spraycans would be nice, since they have an extensive line of military colors to choose from, problem is they are expensive for such a small can.

 

If I have to prime (especially for Italeri and Revell kits that have dark green sprues) I usually use Painter's Touch sandable primer, they have it in gray and brown colors but I use the gray. Last time I bought a spraycan (about 3x as big as a Tamiya spraycan) it was about P140.

 

If you find the surface of the plastic too smooth or too rough, then I think you should use primer on 1/72 kits. The only thing you have to watch out for in this scale is if they have recessed panel lines, paint might build up on the lines and lose definition. Of course, you can always rescribe the line with a sewing needle in a pin vise.

 

And FYI, we all started as beginners before. I still am a beginner though.