smvillalon Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 That helps a lot, thanks! Actually the small triangular masking tape technique was the one Dave Gibson recommended to me, but I gave up after I botched it. I will go back to my Bf-109 and sweat out the masking. I have to call on the force to give me the patience of a Jedi Master. Another question, if it's all right with you? I'm doing the interior of an Academy Bradley, and from my reference photos, the base of the turret where it connects to the floor is shiny metal. I think I want to do this via aluminum foil (since this is an interior that will only be seen through the hatches, I don't want to use BMF on this) but I don't know what adhesive to use. Micro Mark has foil adhesive but of course, I can't get hold of it. Would using rugby be OK? My thoughts are that I might not be able to spread the rugby evenly so it might have to be thinned down. Would you know what I can thin rugby with? TIA! Ah yes... this is a problem that has faced a lot of us. actually, this is the reason I never finished my Lindberg 1/72 Hustler. I did not want to go through the trouble. But nevertheless, I came across an article in FSM (not FHM though the articles are just as interesting - only in 1:1 scale) about using foil on a P-38 Lghtning. Here's the link: http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/f...ightning(1).pdf According t the article, they use ordinary aluminum foil and a Microscale adhesive (I honestly do not have the foggiest notion where that can be procured locally) You can ask Natalie of JMN if she carries them. If not, maybe she could order it for you through Hannants. Regarding the issue of thinning rugby or cntact adhesive... I really do not recommend it because you can only thin contact cement effectively with Toluene (the vehicle of the brand Rugby and Do-All). This is a PDEA regulated substance (like acetone). If you can get it using a doctor's license, then you may be able to thin contact adhesive but I believe it is a lot of trouble for a small problem. I asked a friend of mine a few years back if there are foils with adhesive backing. He said to check the hobby craft stores. According to him, there is a material similar to goldleaf (except that it is attached through an adhesive rather than heat) that is used for book binding and calligraphy work. I have never used it nor sought to find it though. I just use Gunze's Mr. Metal (when we talk of small areas like interior detailing) or ask to spray some Alclad during group builds from some of our members (this is where group builds really come in handy). I'm sorry I could not be of too much help on this subject. I am really squeamish when it comes to metal finishes. Best Regards, Jun Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Hi Allan, How are you doing my friend? I hope all is fine. It's been a while since we've talked. I think I may have struck a tender nerve here. Honestly, I was just reacting to Dr. Pepper's comment. I'm sorry if you thought I was insinuating anything. I was not... I just following the thread of conversation at the time. So let's leave it at that.. Next topic... :flowers: I'm glad to hear got just came back from your Singapore trip safely. Business trip? :thumbsupsmiley: It's a little difficult to find models over there because the shops are not as well stocked as Hong Kong and they are quite pricey. The food is great though... especially the steamed fish in the Chinatown area. Las time I tried the steamed grouper and the fish was great - a little big but great! See you around pre! Jun And you dont think we do? Wow. Funny meeting you here, Jun. And funny seeing you still strutting the same old thing. We had more than 700 entries in our last Nationals. We got major model manufacturers backing up our shows. You dont think we can back that up? Tell you what. Check out the entire thread and you wont see any derogatory remark on IPMS Manila coming from me. So why dont you just cool it with your homily, and if you want to discuss models per se leave it at that. Dont bring that garbage here. Allan A. Yeah. Its me. Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Correct me if I'm wrong but a tritool is a set of saw blades sold by Hasegawa. It's used for cutting and scribing plastic. Tama ba Allan? Jun whats a Tri Tool Herr Boelcke? any 1/32 modern aircraft you guys might recommend? Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 available locally? baka mahal hehehe Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 No worries, Doc. What happened in the past cant be changed. But it doesnt help if some people dwell on it. Theres a good chance these people will post a reply to my post and that would in turn spark a never ending debate in this thread. But Im not falling for it. I dont know about you guys, but Ive gotten tired of repeating the same old debate we had back in the days. At this point its all just bringing out dirty linen. Makes us all look bad. Its been 5, 6 years? Lets all get over that. Don't worry Herr Boelcke, I'm sure we can skip the whole thing and move on. At least the thread has become active again. But I really apologize for bringing it up. I should have known better. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Btw, Doc, I got only two small kits, a Hase Tri Tool and some plastic rods. Didnt much go for the kits. But I did bring home about 2 dozen bottles of Gunze. Re-stock!!! I'm sure you got more stuff that was non-model related! Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 (edited) whats a Tri Tool Herr Boelcke? any 1/32 modern aircraft you guys might recommend? How about the Academy 1/32 Hornet and Viper? And the Trumpeter 1/32 Lightning? http://62.0.5.133/attach.high-g.nett/attachments/a12101top.jpg http://www.rollmodels.nett/nreviews/airplanes/32acadf18/ACA2191.jpg http://www.ipmsusa2.org/reviews2/aircraft/kits/trumpeter_32_ee-lightning/boxart.jpg Edited May 30, 2009 by Dr_PepPeR Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 available locally? baka mahal hehehe I think I saw a Tritool in STC Greenhills or Cubao... It's been a while but I think it's still there. Jun Quote Link to comment
floppydrive Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 I asked a friend of mine a few years back if there are foils with adhesive backing. He said to check the hobby craft stores. According to him, there is a material similar to goldleaf (except that it is attached through an adhesive rather than heat) that is used for book binding and calligraphy work. I have never used it nor sought to find it though. I just use Gunze's Mr. Metal (when we talk of small areas like interior detailing) or ask to spray some Alclad during group builds from some of our members (this is where group builds really come in handy). I'm sorry I could not be of too much help on this subject. I am really squeamish when it comes to metal finishes. Best Regards, JunDoc,If Alclad can work, then maybe you can try out some of the metalizers. If there's not much detail work to show on the surface where the foil will be placed, maybe watered down white glue (Elmers) and foil will do. Haven't tried this, so I'm not sure if it will work. Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) How about the Academy 1/32 Hornet and Viper? And the Trumpeter 1/32 Lightning? the Hornet and Viper sound nice. oh i have Raptor pala. i stay away from metal finishes for now. one slight scratch on the surface and it ruins the job. that's what happened to my 1st 1/32 kit. the engine is to be painted aluminum. but there are areas where scratches and dried glue on the engine. and when i painted it with Gunze Metal Alumine (i dont even know if that is Aluminum), the scratches and imperfections were really visible. so that's it for now with metallic finishes. the only metal paint i've used is Gunze Silver, which for me comes out really nice even if applied with my clunky Tamiya Basic Spraywork set Edited May 31, 2009 by bugoy2004 Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 available locally? baka mahal hehehe I think I saw a Tritool in STC Greenhills or Cubao... It's been a while but I think it's still there. Jun I also saw Hase's Tritool in Lil's. I think they come in different sets. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 ey doc? places to hit? for 1:1 models or model kits? :upside: Both actually. I made arrangements already for the 1:1 models to be found at the MPs in KL but I still have to work on the smaller scale models. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Ah yes... this is a problem that has faced a lot of us. actually, this is the reason I never finished my Lindberg 1/72 Hustler. I did not want to go through the trouble. But nevertheless, I came across an article in FSM (not FHM though the articles are just as interesting - only in 1:1 scale) about using foil on a P-38 Lghtning. Here's the link: http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/f...ightning(1).pdf According t the article, they use ordinary aluminum foil and a Microscale adhesive (I honestly do not have the foggiest notion where that can be procured locally) You can ask Natalie of JMN if she carries them. If not, maybe she could order it for you through Hannants. Regarding the issue of thinning rugby or cntact adhesive... I really do not recommend it because you can only thin contact cement effectively with Toluene (the vehicle of the brand Rugby and Do-All). This is a PDEA regulated substance (like acetone). If you can get it using a doctor's license, then you may be able to thin contact adhesive but I believe it is a lot of trouble for a small problem. I asked a friend of mine a few years back if there are foils with adhesive backing. He said to check the hobby craft stores. According to him, there is a material similar to goldleaf (except that it is attached through an adhesive rather than heat) that is used for book binding and calligraphy work. I have never used it nor sought to find it though. I just use Gunze's Mr. Metal (when we talk of small areas like interior detailing) or ask to spray some Alclad during group builds from some of our members (this is where group builds really come in handy). I'm sorry I could not be of too much help on this subject. I am really squeamish when it comes to metal finishes. Best Regards, Jun When I got my 1/48 Monogram Hustler, I intended to use aluminum foil after seing an online article of the same subject. I even bought a cheap roll of foil because it was so thin and would have been better than the normal foil. What put me off was finding an adhesive for it. Now that I have AlcladII, this is what I intend to use on kits with natural metal finishes. For the foil backed by adhesive, you might be referring to Bare Metal Foil, which also comes in different metal shades. I was able to buy a couple of sheets from Roel's store a few years ago but I only use this for detailing as it is quite expensive. I am also squemish about natural metal finishes, but I do have kits that call for it. I will start with 1/72 scale so that I can experiment. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Doc,If Alclad can work, then maybe you can try out some of the metalizers. If there's not much detail work to show on the surface where the foil will be placed, maybe watered down white glue (Elmers) and foil will do. Haven't tried this, so I'm not sure if it will work. Watered down white glue might do the trick. It just has a long setting time and can be affected by water. Quote Link to comment
vengaboy Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I think the point here is about humility and camaraderie. So to everyone don't heat up this thread or if anyone feels alluded to just feel free to create a new thread but not on this particular one. And you dont think we do? Wow. Funny meeting you here, Jun. And funny seeing you still strutting the same old thing. We had more than 700 entries in our last Nationals. We got major model manufacturers backing up our shows. You dont think we can back that up? Tell you what. Check out the entire thread and you wont see any derogatory remark on IPMS Manila coming from me. So why dont you just cool it with your homily, and if you want to discuss models per se leave it at that. Dont bring that garbage here. Allan A. Yeah. Its me. Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 good thing it's raining. otherwise i'd be at Festival mall again at aali-aligid sa STC :upside: Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 the Hornet and Viper sound nice. oh i have Raptor pala. i stay away from metal finishes for now. one slight scratch on the surface and it ruins the job. that's what happened to my 1st 1/32 kit. the engine is to be painted aluminum. but there are areas where scratches and dried glue on the engine. and when i painted it with Gunze Metal Alumine (i dont even know if that is Aluminum), the scratches and imperfections were really visible. so that's it for now with metallic finishes. the only metal paint i've used is Gunze Silver, which for me comes out really nice even if applied with my clunky Tamiya Basic Spraywork set I think BMF are part of the initiation rites of modeling, just like DIY zimmerit and the old DML indi link tracks. At one time or another, this will have to be attempted and mastered. I read that the finish of the plastic will have to be perfect for a BMF on the body itself. I'm still afraid of attempting a BMF, maybe after I've done a few fuselages with elimated seams, then and only then. So you have Academy's 1/48 Raptor? Just got mine from Lil's. Damn expensive kit but it really looks impressive from the box! Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 good thing it's raining. otherwise i'd be at Festival mall again at aali-aligid sa STC :upside: It should be a great time for tinkering with the models but here I am getting my libido massaged at the usual MTC threads. I'm so pathetic. Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 yep the Raptor's box is almost as big as a 1/32 kit. got mine from STC Festival. 100 peso difference. if i go to Lil's kasi ganun din suma dahil pamasahe. another thing to master BMF is the seamline when the fuselage mate. has to be perfect Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) It should be a great time for tinkering with the models but here I am getting my libido massaged at the usual MTC threads. I'm so pathetic. yep. right now i'm doing the landing gears for the 1/32 MIG-21, my first foray into 1/32 territory. while doing this kit i also discovered i can use stretched sprue to seal the lines where the fuselage halves mate. i sure hope it doesn't show when the kit is done. Edited May 31, 2009 by bugoy2004 Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Hmmm I think its a good time to take an afternoon nap. Quote Link to comment
floppydrive Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) yep the Raptor's box is almost as big as a 1/32 kit. got mine from STC Festival. 100 peso difference. if i go to Lil's kasi ganun din suma dahil pamasahe. another thing to master BMF is the seamline when the fuselage mate. has to be perfectSpeaking of seamlines, what are your techniques or favorite technique for patching seams? Doc has mentioned using stretched sprue. I usually patch seams with superglue, then sand, the mark with a colored felt-tip pen and sand to show missed spots, then repeat superglue cycle until seam is acceptable. Edited May 31, 2009 by floppydrive Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Speaking of seamlines, what are your techniques or favorite technique for patching seams? Doc has mentioned using stretched sprue. I usually patch seams with superglue, then sand, the mark with a colored felt-tip pen and sand to show missed spots, then repeat superglue cycle until seam is acceptable. i use stretched sprue for my MIG-21 sir. for me it's easier to sand. still have to practice though Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Don't laugh but believe it or not, I tried using spackle for wood (Elmer's ang brand - I got it at Ace). So far so good naman. My worry though is maybe it will crack over time but it hasn't done so yet (the model I built is a little over a year na). I also tried using Bondo glazing and spot putty. My problem with both of them is they are quite grainy so it's a little difficult sanding them down to a smooth finish. For large gaps, stretched sprue seems to be the best bet. I tried using CA glue then while it is still wet, sprinkled baking soda over it. It works well because you can really cover large areas but the CA makes sanding it down difficult because of its toughness. I use this on vinyl or resin joints to ensure/reinforce the strength of the joints. Gel CA glue is quite expensive (this variety is available at Ace carried by 3M) but easier to apply than stretched sprue. Some of our members have also tried using Glasurit Spot Putty with great success. Overall, I think you'd get the best results from Glasurit (remember that this is designed for extreme conditions - car exteriors). It's very easy to apply also. You can get small quantities of this at your local auto paint shop retailer. Hope this helps. Jun Speaking of seamlines, what are your techniques or favorite technique for patching seams? Doc has mentioned using stretched sprue. I usually patch seams with superglue, then sand, the mark with a colored felt-tip pen and sand to show missed spots, then repeat superglue cycle until seam is acceptable. Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Doc, I have a solution for both your issues... build anime figures! Have you checked out Cody Kwok's site Cody's Coop? His anime figures make my mouth water... Beautiful models of beautiful women!!! Here's his site: http://codyscoop.com/ Jun It should be a great time for tinkering with the models but here I am getting my libido massaged at the usual MTC threads. I'm so pathetic. Quote Link to comment
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