Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Speaking of seamlines, what are your techniques or favorite technique for patching seams? Doc has mentioned using stretched sprue. I usually patch seams with superglue, then sand, the mark with a colored felt-tip pen and sand to show missed spots, then repeat superglue cycle until seam is acceptable. i use stretched sprue for my MIG-21 sir. for me it's easier to sand. still have to practice though Don't laugh but believe it or not, I tried using spackle for wood (Elmer's ang brand - I got it at Ace). So far so good naman. My worry though is maybe it will crack over time but it hasn't done so yet (the model I built is a little over a year na). I also tried using Bondo glazing and spot putty. My problem with both of them is they are quite grainy so it's a little difficult sanding them down to a smooth finish. For large gaps, stretched sprue seems to be the best bet. I tried using CA glue then while it is still wet, sprinkled baking soda over it. It works well because you can really cover large areas but the CA makes sanding it down difficult because of its toughness. I use this on vinyl or resin joints to ensure/reinforce the strength of the joints. Gel CA glue is quite expensive (this variety is available at Ace carried by 3M) but easier to apply than stretched sprue. Some of our members have also tried using Glasurit Spot Putty with great success. Overall, I think you'd get the best results from Glasurit (remember that this is designed for extreme conditions - car exteriors). It's very easy to apply also. You can get small quantities of this at your local auto paint shop retailer. Hope this helps. Jun Doesn't anybody use modelling putty anymore? I'm all stocked up with Tamiya gray putty, about 6 or 7 tubes of it. I mask the seam, apply the putty, take out the masking tape, wipe off excess with nailpolish remover, then sand. For very small seams I use Mr. Surfacer. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) Doc, I have a solution for both your issues... build anime figures! Have you checked out Cody Kwok's site Cody's Coop? His anime figures make my mouth water... Beautiful models of beautiful women!!! Here's his site: http://codyscoop.com/ Jun And what do you think my wife will say when I'm working on a nude/seminude 1/8 figurine? Nice site! Edited May 31, 2009 by Dr_PepPeR Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 My experience kasi with Tamiya putty is it dries extremely fast eh mabagal ako magtrabaho... Ayun! I'm left with half a tube of dried putty... :cry: Jun Doesn't anybody use modelling putty anymore? I'm all stocked up with Tamiya gray putty, about 6 or 7 tubes of it. I mask the seam, apply the putty, take out the masking tape, wipe off excess with nailpolish remover, then sand. For very small seams I use Mr. Surfacer. Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I told my wife (when I was making my figure of Chobits) that the figure reminds me of her sexy figure... hehehe... Jun And what do you think my wife will say when I'm working on a nude/seminude 1/8 figurine? Nice site! Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Hey Doc, I just went to Tony Matteliano's site and I got in! Maybe na-tiyempuhan ka lang the last time... Try it again. Jun Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Guys, You know, I have an idea. Why don't you peeps from the south meet up sometime soon, talk on how you can get together on a regular basis and if all goes well, maybe set up a club of your own over there. IPMS Manila or some of the other clubs (mind you, I can only speak for IPMS Manila) can assist you with any logistics requirements you may need to set up shop there. I know distance has always been a problem and this seems like a logical solution especially if you guys see that there is a large number of modelers over there. I remember that there is an IPMS South over there. If you can get a hold of Noel Saplala and his friends, then you've got another set of master modelers in your roster. Honestly, it would be good if you can do this since no matter how you put it, this move would only be good for the hobby. Setting up modeling clubs in different areas will spur interest in the locals (particularly the youth) in the hobby. Doing this will make the hobby grow and I believe that only by introducing the hobby to the youth can we ensure that the hobby will survive long after we are dead and buried. Best Regards, Jun Doc, Sir Bugoy, Hope you can post here when you plan to meet up. Sama din ako! Taga-"south" din po! Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 My experience kasi with Tamiya putty is it dries extremely fast eh mabagal ako magtrabaho... Ayun! I'm left with half a tube of dried putty... :cry: Jun My Tamiya putty ages well, I think it's about a year old and I've used about half ot it. On the other hand, my super glue keeps hardening up on me so I keep buying bottles and tubes of this stuff but actually use only a small portion of it. I swore off buying Milliput, doesn't have a good shelf life. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I told my wife (when I was making my figure of Chobits) that the figure reminds me of her sexy figure... hehehe... Jun My wife would never buy that line. More likely she would conclude that I intend to display the figures in the bathroom so I can uhmm... Hey Doc, I just went to Tony Matteliano's site and I got in! Maybe na-tiyempuhan ka lang the last time... Try it again. Jun I can get into Tony Matteliano's site just fine, I just can't find the website that hosts the scanned instruction sheets of models. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Guys, You know, I have an idea. Why don't you peeps from the south meet up sometime soon, talk on how you can get together on a regular basis and if all goes well, maybe set up a club of your own over there. IPMS Manila or some of the other clubs (mind you, I can only speak for IPMS Manila) can assist you with any logistics requirements you may need to set up shop there. I know distance has always been a problem and this seems like a logical solution especially if you guys see that there is a large number of modelers over there. I remember that there is an IPMS South over there. If you can get a hold of Noel Saplala and his friends, then you've got another set of master modelers in your roster. Honestly, it would be good if you can do this since no matter how you put it, this move would only be good for the hobby. Setting up modeling clubs in different areas will spur interest in the locals (particularly the youth) in the hobby. Doing this will make the hobby grow and I believe that only by introducing the hobby to the youth can we ensure that the hobby will survive long after we are dead and buried. Best Regards, Jun Bugoy2004 for President! Sir floppydrive for Vice President! Quote Link to comment
Boelcke Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Hi Allan, How are you doing my friend? I hope all is fine. It's been a while since we've talked. I think I may have struck a tender nerve here. Honestly, I was just reacting to Dr. Pepper's comment. I'm sorry if you thought I was insinuating anything. I was not... I just following the thread of conversation at the time. So let's leave it at that.. Next topic... :flowers: I'm glad to hear got just came back from your Singapore trip safely. Business trip? :thumbsupsmiley: It's a little difficult to find models over there because the shops are not as well stocked as Hong Kong and they are quite pricey. The food is great though... especially the steamed fish in the Chinatown area. Las time I tried the steamed grouper and the fish was great - a little big but great! See you around pre! Jun Business. But in between meetings we get free time, which was promptly used up to scout local hobby shops, or to whet curiousities and see the insides of adult shops. Actually, I have always had trouble with foreign food. Especially in Bangkok, where everything tastes Thai, even the Japanese restaurants. Nothing like local dishes, I say. Yes, the LHS are not as well-stocked as HK, but they do have a few items not available in HK and here as well. So that was a pleasant surprise. Quote Link to comment
Boelcke Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Correct me if I'm wrong but a tritool is a set of saw blades sold by Hasegawa. It's used for cutting and scribing plastic. Tama ba Allan? Jun Correct. But it also includes sets of scribing templates, which I got. I already have the PE cutting saw from the Hase Dauntless kit, so I went for the templates. Quote Link to comment
floppydrive Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Don't laugh but believe it or not, I tried using spackle for wood (Elmer's ang brand - I got it at Ace). So far so good naman. My worry though is maybe it will crack over time but it hasn't done so yet (the model I built is a little over a year na). I also tried using Bondo glazing and spot putty. My problem with both of them is they are quite grainy so it's a little difficult sanding them down to a smooth finish. For large gaps, stretched sprue seems to be the best bet. I tried using CA glue then while it is still wet, sprinkled baking soda over it. It works well because you can really cover large areas but the CA makes sanding it down difficult because of its toughness. I use this on vinyl or resin joints to ensure/reinforce the strength of the joints. Gel CA glue is quite expensive (this variety is available at Ace carried by 3M) but easier to apply than stretched sprue. Some of our members have also tried using Glasurit Spot Putty with great success. Overall, I think you'd get the best results from Glasurit (remember that this is designed for extreme conditions - car exteriors). It's very easy to apply also. You can get small quantities of this at your local auto paint shop retailer. Hope this helps. JunSir, what happens to the super glue when baking soda is sprinkled over it? Does it dry faster? Regarding superglue's toughness, you need to sand it after an hour it dries. After that, it becomes harder and harder until it fully cures (about 24 hours to three days), then it becomes harder than PS. Pioneer has gel type CA. Quote Link to comment
steiner Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Sir, what happens to the super glue when baking soda is sprinkled over it? Does it dry faster? Regarding superglue's toughness, you need to sand it after an hour it dries. After that, it becomes harder and harder until it fully cures (about 24 hours to three days), then it becomes harder than PS. Pioneer has gel type CA. I have to agree with smvillalon... glasurit is the most economical and effective general purpose filler. Concerning putty, I would recommend gunze white putty, it seems to dry really smooth, but it is often out of stock. You can also try using bosny spackle. Bosny spackly can also be used for zimmerit coatings except for for the "waffle" pattern on Stug 3's. For figures I would recommend both glasurit and Mr surfacer 500. Quote Link to comment
Boelcke Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Sir, what happens to the super glue when baking soda is sprinkled over it? Does it dry faster? I dabbled with this several years ago. The only thing I can say about the superglue-baking soda combination is: DONT! The mix creates some sort of oxidation that, over the years, will ruin everything around it, especially the paint. Superglue per se may take longer to dry and may be less hard than a mixture with baking soda, but it doesnt have after effects. Quote Link to comment
floppydrive Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I have to agree with smvillalon... glasurit is the most economical and effective general purpose filler. Concerning putty, I would recommend gunze white putty, it seems to dry really smooth, but it is often out of stock. You can also try using bosny spackle. Bosny spackly can also be used for zimmerit coatings except for for the "waffle" pattern on Stug 3's. For figures I would recommend both glasurit and Mr surfacer 500.Is glasurit a two part mixture or is it something you can use straight out of the container? Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Bugoy2004 for President! Sir floppydrive for Vice President! ohhh no not me. lets just meet and build models :cool: Quote Link to comment
steiner Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Is glasurit a two part mixture or is it something you can use straight out of the container? It's a green liquid putty like filler that you buy from automotive supply store. This reminds me I have to get new stocks of this soon! Surfacer 500 is a very good substitute, albeit a more expensive one. more pictures of recent fun builds! http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0043.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0044.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0045.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0046.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0047.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0048.jpg Quote Link to comment
floppydrive Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Fantastic detail, Herr Steiner! I second Bugoy's comment! Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Nope. Glasurit is just a one-part spot putty. I think you are referring to Polytuff, the Polyester body filler. Polytuff Polyester Body filler is great for filling gaps if the gaps are BIG and DEEP and I really mean BIG and DEEP (but you'll have a difficult time using it if you're not used to it). I'd rather use Water Stop Epoxy to fill them huge gaps. Jun Is glasurit a two part mixture or is it something you can use straight out of the container? Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 I think it's because of the chemical composition of the baking soda (Calcium Carbonate plus Cyano-Acrylate would probably produce something corrosive). I normally use it only to seal large gaps and make the joint stronger but I always make sure it does not reach the top surface (because it's very difficult to sand-down). I put the Glasurit over it to smoothen it out and then prime. So far the kit I did work on hasn't suffered any problems but I haven't taken it out of the glass case since I built it seven years ago. Jun I dabbled with this several years ago. The only thing I can say about the superglue-baking soda combination is: DONT! The mix creates some sort of oxidation that, over the years, will ruin everything around it, especially the paint. Superglue per se may take longer to dry and may be less hard than a mixture with baking soda, but it doesnt have after effects. Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Oh yeah... The adult shops... I saw several around the Bugis area, right? I saw them when I was shopping around there for some bargains to take home to the kids. Jun Business. But in between meetings we get free time, which was promptly used up to scout local hobby shops, or to whet curiousities and see the insides of adult shops. Actually, I have always had trouble with foreign food. Especially in Bangkok, where everything tastes Thai, even the Japanese restaurants. Nothing like local dishes, I say. Yes, the LHS are not as well-stocked as HK, but they do have a few items not available in HK and here as well. So that was a pleasant surprise. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 It's a green liquid putty like filler that you buy from automotive supply store. This reminds me I have to get new stocks of this soon! Surfacer 500 is a very good substitute, albeit a more expensive one. more pictures of recent fun builds! http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0043.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0044.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0045.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0046.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0047.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/9723761/DSC_0048.jpg Nice finish and figure! Time for me to go back to my Zvezda Panzer I! Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Guys, Has anyone seen this site? I stumbled onto it a few hours ago and it describes how you can turn your small rotary tool into a lathe. If you are into making yourself a small rotary tool powered lathe check out this link. I think the designer is a model RR guy. http://build.your.own.prototypes.googlepages.com/TheFonlylathe.htm If anyone is successful, let us know. Jun Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 (edited) Guys, Has anyone seen this site? I stumbled onto it a few hours ago and it describes how you can turn your small rotary tool into a lathe. If you are into making yourself a small rotary tool powered lathe check out this link. I think the designer is a model RR guy. http://build.your.own.prototypes.googlepages.com/TheFonlylathe.htm If anyone is successful, let us know. Jun Hi Jun, I haven't gone to the link yet but I have read a how-to on converting a dremel into a lathe which involves clamping the tool down to the desk and then using it as you would a lathe. I tried using a regular lathe in basic woodworking when I went to school in the US, I was trying to make round chair legs from stock 2x2. If you are doing it for the first time it is difficult to make the diameter consistent, at least in my experience. If you are working on a small diameter piece, your errors will be amplified. Were you thinking of turning your own aluminum barrels? Edited June 3, 2009 by Dr_PepPeR Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Yup... Jun Hi Jun, I haven't gone to the link yet but I have read a how-to on converting a dremel into a lathe which involves clamping the tool down to the desk and then using it as you would a lathe. I tried using a regular lathe in basic woodworking when I went to school in the US, I was trying to make round chair legs from stock 2x2. If you are doing it for the first time it is difficult to make the diameter consistent, at least in my experience. If you are working on a small diameter piece, your errors will be amplified. Were you thinking of turning your own aluminum barrels? Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.