Who Is Into Scale Modelling?

[Boelcke]

Ey nice! Meron palang scale modeling thread dito. Am a scale modeler too, mostly military stuff. I did try Gundam kits before, but since time is so limited nowadays Im focusing on modern military gear and figures. Post naman kayo ng pics, guys.

[Dr_PepPeR]

i like gundam model kits like this...

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_61601990.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_61601990.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1886_716553958.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_58487105.jpg

 

will try to post actual pics of my personal kits

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Sarap i weather mga ito!

[Yu-gi-oh]

Yes you could but I suggest you get an order list. For kits, you can get Hasegawa, Finemolds from Japan and if you go elsewhere, maybe the Eastern European kitmakers like Eduard, Roden and other hard to find kits. You might also want to consider buying aftermarket sets like paint, resin, photoetch, decals or even tools. Just be sure you have your buyers waiting for you here since the market for the hobby is not that big here.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Thanks for the info DOC....

 

i like gundam model kits like this...

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_61601990.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_61601990.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1886_716553958.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_58487105.jpg

 

will try to post actual pics of my personal kits

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

I will have a meeting with BAN KEE TRADING next week Initially they are offering me to sell Gundam and Zoids but I am looking for Power Rangers and Yu-gi-oh. I would like to negotiate for a cheaper price compare to the selling of SM

[Dr_PepPeR]

Ey nice!  Meron palang scale modeling thread dito. Am a scale modeler too, mostly military stuff.  I did try Gundam kits before, but since time is so limited nowadays Im focusing on modern military gear and figures. Post naman kayo ng pics, guys.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Hi. Do you mean modern military vehicles and figures?

[moxman]

Scale Modelling for Noobies

 

this kind of hobby requires a lot of patience and dexterity.

 

dito nio pwede i-test ung creativity nio. use your imagination to turn a common Gundam to a worn out battle veteran.

 

madami na din ako nabuo na scale models and Gundam figures.

and madami pa ako andun nka stock sa kwarto un assembled.

 

favorite ko buuin ung Planes and Warships. mejo mahirap lang sila pagandahin kasi kulang tayo dito ng aftermarket parts. (order ka pa sa Lil's Futaba dun sa Park Square 1)

 

basic tools to start this kind of hobby includes

-Sprue Cutter => scissor like tool used to free the parts from the sprue (ung plastic pieces na excess ng mold)

 

-Glue --> can be plastic cement, super glue or white glue (elmer's)

 

-sandpaper -> from 400 - 1200 grit or finer (para maalis ung blemishes)

 

-paint -> para mas maganda ung model. /no1

 

Advanced hobbyists have

 

-Motor tool --> pwede drill, router and buffing device (para makinis ung surface)

 

-tweezers -> for really tight spaces

 

-clamps or rubber bands -> for holding the pieces in place during gluing process

 

-airbrush -> mas maganda ung paint job

 

-Candle -> para tunawin ung sprue and create antenna's and poles

 

-Knife set -> pwede cutter or scalpel (para gumawa ng lines and wrecks sa plastic)

 

Next thing to do after assembly is to create that beatitful display Base for your model

[moxman]

*Ship Aftermartket are abundant in Special toy's Center*

Look for extra Planes for your carrier ships and railing and radar.

makes your model look a lot better

 

 

Now here's a workbench for beginners

 

 

Basics!!

 

Build a hide-away workbench! Para di naka-kalat ung tools and parts mo.

 

Build a hideaway workbench

Ted Herman of FineScaleModeller

 

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/images/benchl.JPG

 

 

If you’ve ever found space at a premium

for modeling, perhaps I have a solution

to your dilemma. I’ve had some cramped

quarters in my time, so I put my thinking

cap on to find workspace where there

wasn’t any. I came up with what I call

“The Hideaway Workbench,” or “The

Murphy Bench for the Living Space

Impaired.”

Cut and paste. The design is flexible.

As long as you follow the formulas

here, you can easily modify the overall

dimensions to accommodate your particular

needs. To build the bench as shown,

you’ll need the better part of a 4' x 8' sheet

of plywood (Grade B or better).

Feel confident to cut out all the pieces

shown in the plans for a trouble-free

assembly. This enables you to use a table

saw, band saw, and various other wood

shop tools of a friend if you do not own

them yourself. Just follow the cutting list

for the plywood and the dimensional

lumber. Lightly mark each piece with an

identifying mark (for example: B1/Top

cabinet, etc.) so that when you are assembling

the unit you can easily note what

part of the structure you’re handling.

At this point you’ll have a large pile of

lumber to be assembled. All joints are

simple butt joints that are glued (use carpenter’s

glue for the best bonds), then

screwed together. I found that this gives

you more than enough strength and durability.

For those with the time and the

know-how, mortised or rabbet joints

could be implemented, although this

would cause a reconfiguring of the given

dimensions and formulas.

Assembly required. Start by

assembling the base frame. Be sure to

pre-drill and countersink the holes for the

3" No. 10 wood screws. Drill to a depth

of 1" minimum at joints where you are

drilling through 3" of wood. Otherwise a

1⁄2" countersink is sufficient. You can

mark your drill bit with masking tape at

the proper depth to make this process

easier. I recommend that all joints be

glued, with two screws added at each

joint. Once complete, you can attach the

base’s bottom with 11⁄2" No. 8 wood

screws.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8730/figure17ja.jpg

 

*All dimensions given in inches

Component A: 96"-2 by 4 dimensional lumber 3 needed

Component B: 48 x 96-3⁄4-inch plywood (grade B or better) 1 needed

Component C: 48 x 96-1⁄4-inch Masonite or plywood 1 needed

Lower cabinet/stand (Component A)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 27" 4

2 30" 8

3 5" 4

4 6.5" 4

Upper cabinet (Component

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 24" x 30" 2

2 10.5" x 28.5" 1

3 10.5" x 30" 2

4 5.25" x 28.5" 1

5 8.25" x 5.25" 1

Covers/ fascia for door and base (Component C)

(Not shown in illustrations)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 30" x 13.5" 2

2 30" x 12" 2

3 30" x 30.5" 1

Hardware List

Piece

No. Type Quantity

H1 2" x 11⁄2" flush-mount hinge 4

H2 3" draw latch 1

H3 No. 10 x 3" wood screws 60

H4* No. 8 x 1⁄2" bugle head wood screws 60

H5 No. 6 x 1" finishing nails 1lb

H6 No. 8 x 1⁄2" pan head wood screws 20

H7 30" x 1 1⁄2" piano hinge 1

*can substitute No. 6 11⁄2" finishing nails

Cutting List

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8835/cuttinglist6al.jpg

 

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/6843/figure27nc.jpg

 

The supports and optional lower doors

section can be assembled next. This is

merely a four-piece framework, made

from 2 by 4s. The holes for the screws will

need to be pre-drilled and countersunk as

they were in the base framework.

Assemble them with 3" No. 10 wood

screws.

 

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/4074/figure32ug.jpg

 

Now attach the sheathing to the outside

of the base with finishing nails 3⁄4" to

1" in length. You can now, if you wish, fill

the countersink holes with either dowel

rods cut and sanded flush or with filler

putty. If you choose to enclose the lower

section, attach the doors to the base with

hinges as specified in the drawings. The

base can now be set aside until later.

Next, turn your attention to the cabinet.

Start by laying the back out on a flat

surface. Prepare the sides by applying glue

to the mating surfaces. These can be

attached using 11⁄2" #8 bugle-head screws

or can be nailed with finishing nails. If

you are using finishing nails and a hammer,

you will need to clamp the parts

until the glue has time to set. (Screws and

pneumatic nailing will not require clamping.)

After this, prep and attach the top,

then the bottom, to the cabinet. The

result should be a large box.

Assemble the dividers to the shelf

(before inserting them into the cabinet).

When marking the shelf for placement of

the dividers, transfer the marks to the

inside of the top (this way, there will be

no need for squares later on). All of these

pieces should be assembled with glue and

fasteners. Be sure to run a row of fasteners

down the back of the cabinet at the

shelf, too. This will give the support

needed to prevent the shelf from sagging

under a load. Cubbys are shown in drawings

but shelving can be easily modified

to meet your needs. If you plan on applying

a finish to the cabinet, now is a good

time to do it. Be sure to finish the folddown

front at the same time.

Once all this is done, you can attach

the cabinet to the base. Use 11⁄2" No. 8

bugle-head screws in at least the four corners

and along the back every 12". Now

assemble the front to the base using the

drawings as a guide. Use 1⁄2" No. 8 panhead

wood screws or the hardware

provided with your hinge set. Attach the

draw latch to the top of the cabinet centered

across the top according to the

manufacturer’s instructions and you

should be finished.

Open the doors to 90 degrees from

closed, unlatch and lower the cabinet

front until it rests on the open doors, and

presto, the bench is in operation. This

cabinet is both strong and space saving.

You can add a power strip to the cabinet

or the base, and a swing-arm light can be

easily installed on the top!

 

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/3207/figure41rs.jpg

 

 

Yan! meron na kayong work bench! /no1

[moxman]

*Ship Aftermartket are abundant in Special toy's Center*

Look for extra Planes for your carrier ships and railing and radar.

makes your model look a lot better

 

 

Now here's a workbench for beginners

 

 

Basics!!

 

Build a hide-away workbench! Para di naka-kalat ung tools and parts mo.

 

Build a hideaway workbench

Ted Herman of FineScaleModeller

 

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/images/benchl.JPG

 

 

If you’ve ever found space at a premium

for modeling, perhaps I have a solution

to your dilemma. I’ve had some cramped

quarters in my time, so I put my thinking

cap on to find workspace where there

wasn’t any. I came up with what I call

“The Hideaway Workbench,” or “The

Murphy Bench for the Living Space

Impaired.”

Cut and paste. The design is flexible.

As long as you follow the formulas

here, you can easily modify the overall

dimensions to accommodate your particular

needs. To build the bench as shown,

you’ll need the better part of a 4' x 8' sheet

of plywood (Grade B or better).

Feel confident to cut out all the pieces

shown in the plans for a trouble-free

assembly. This enables you to use a table

saw, band saw, and various other wood

shop tools of a friend if you do not own

them yourself. Just follow the cutting list

for the plywood and the dimensional

lumber. Lightly mark each piece with an

identifying mark (for example: B1/Top

cabinet, etc.) so that when you are assembling

the unit you can easily note what

part of the structure you’re handling.

At this point you’ll have a large pile of

lumber to be assembled. All joints are

simple butt joints that are glued (use carpenter’s

glue for the best bonds), then

screwed together. I found that this gives

you more than enough strength and durability.

For those with the time and the

know-how, mortised or rabbet joints

could be implemented, although this

would cause a reconfiguring of the given

dimensions and formulas.

Assembly required. Start by

assembling the base frame. Be sure to

pre-drill and countersink the holes for the

3" No. 10 wood screws. Drill to a depth

of 1" minimum at joints where you are

drilling through 3" of wood. Otherwise a

1⁄2" countersink is sufficient. You can

mark your drill bit with masking tape at

the proper depth to make this process

easier. I recommend that all joints be

glued, with two screws added at each

joint. Once complete, you can attach the

base’s bottom with 11⁄2" No. 8 wood

screws.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8730/figure17ja.jpg

 

*All dimensions given in inches

Component A: 96"-2 by 4 dimensional lumber 3 needed

Component B: 48 x 96-3⁄4-inch plywood (grade B or better) 1 needed

Component C: 48 x 96-1⁄4-inch Masonite or plywood 1 needed

Lower cabinet/stand (Component A)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 27" 4

2 30" 8

3 5" 4

4 6.5" 4

Upper cabinet (Component

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 24" x 30" 2

2 10.5" x 28.5" 1

3 10.5" x 30" 2

4 5.25" x 28.5" 1

5 8.25" x 5.25" 1

Covers/ fascia for door and base (Component C)

(Not shown in illustrations)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 30" x 13.5" 2

2 30" x 12" 2

3 30" x 30.5" 1

Hardware List

Piece

No. Type Quantity

H1 2" x 11⁄2" flush-mount hinge 4

H2 3" draw latch 1

H3 No. 10 x 3" wood screws 60

H4* No. 8 x 1⁄2" bugle head wood screws 60

H5 No. 6 x 1" finishing nails 1lb

H6 No. 8 x 1⁄2" pan head wood screws 20

H7 30" x 1 1⁄2" piano hinge 1

*can substitute No. 6 11⁄2" finishing nails

Cutting List

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8835/cuttinglist6al.jpg

 

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/6843/figure27nc.jpg

 

The supports and optional lower doors

section can be assembled next. This is

merely a four-piece framework, made

from 2 by 4s. The holes for the screws will

need to be pre-drilled and countersunk as

they were in the base framework.

Assemble them with 3" No. 10 wood

screws.

 

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/4074/figure32ug.jpg

 

Now attach the sheathing to the outside

of the base with finishing nails 3⁄4" to

1" in length. You can now, if you wish, fill

the countersink holes with either dowel

rods cut and sanded flush or with filler

putty. If you choose to enclose the lower

section, attach the doors to the base with

hinges as specified in the drawings. The

base can now be set aside until later.

Next, turn your attention to the cabinet.

Start by laying the back out on a flat

surface. Prepare the sides by applying glue

to the mating surfaces. These can be

attached using 11⁄2" #8 bugle-head screws

or can be nailed with finishing nails. If

you are using finishing nails and a hammer,

you will need to clamp the parts

until the glue has time to set. (Screws and

pneumatic nailing will not require clamping.)

After this, prep and attach the top,

then the bottom, to the cabinet. The

result should be a large box.

Assemble the dividers to the shelf

(before inserting them into the cabinet).

When marking the shelf for placement of

the dividers, transfer the marks to the

inside of the top (this way, there will be

no need for squares later on). All of these

pieces should be assembled with glue and

fasteners. Be sure to run a row of fasteners

down the back of the cabinet at the

shelf, too. This will give the support

needed to prevent the shelf from sagging

under a load. Cubbys are shown in drawings

but shelving can be easily modified

to meet your needs. If you plan on applying

a finish to the cabinet, now is a good

time to do it. Be sure to finish the folddown

front at the same time.

Once all this is done, you can attach

the cabinet to the base. Use 11⁄2" No. 8

bugle-head screws in at least the four corners

and along the back every 12". Now

assemble the front to the base using the

drawings as a guide. Use 1⁄2" No. 8 panhead

wood screws or the hardware

provided with your hinge set. Attach the

draw latch to the top of the cabinet centered

across the top according to the

manufacturer’s instructions and you

should be finished.

Open the doors to 90 degrees from

closed, unlatch and lower the cabinet

front until it rests on the open doors, and

presto, the bench is in operation. This

cabinet is both strong and space saving.

You can add a power strip to the cabinet

or the base, and a swing-arm light can be

easily installed on the top!

 

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/3207/figure41rs.jpg

 

 

Yan! meron na kayong work bench! /no1

[thirteen]

Could somebody give me tips on what airbrush to buy and where i can buy it? What's a decent budget to allocate for an airbrush set? Did a few models before in grade school and highschool, but i always used the spray cans for painting. Thing is, the spray cans don't really offer that much control when it comes to detailing. thanks!

[Yu-gi-oh]

I prefer glass case......

[Dr_PepPeR]

Could somebody give me tips on what airbrush to buy and where i can buy it? What's a decent budget to allocate for an airbrush set? Did a few models before in grade school and highschool, but i always used the spray cans for painting. Thing is, the spray cans don't really offer that much control when it comes to detailing. thanks!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I would recommend the Tamiya Sprayworks. It has a decent airbrush and a decent compressor. I got mine for about 3K a few years ago. Next for me would be a Badger, one of the gravity feed ones, but you will need a decent compressor, not one of those small ones for pumping tires or those diaphragm compressors. I have a Badger 150 and I got it for about 3K then a 1/2 HP compressor with a holding tank for 7K.

 

BTW does anyone know where I can buy sandpaper with grit of 1800 up to 10000?

 

Also, anyone where I can get 3M Acryl Blue?

[Dr_PepPeR]

With the cockpit section assembled and painted, it's usually best to start working on the wheels, landing gears and weapons. Even if the description tells you differently, you might as well start on this task right away, because cleaning up drop tanks, missiles and bombs can be quite time consuming. This is even more true for aircraft such as the F-14 Tomcat, carrying a ton of missiles. I like to file down the fins of the missiles as much as I can, so that they won't look like they are made of two inches thick armor plate.

 

Before joining the fuselage halves, there are a few things to take care of. I recommend that you spray the entire inside of the model black or dark gray. Discovering that you can see naked unpainted plastic through air scoops and other small apertures is not something you want to do. Also don't forget to check if there will be some areas where you can see through the model. On some jet fighter models, sometimes you can actually peek through the jet intakes and see the light at the end of the jet pipe. To prevent this awful effect, either glue sheets of styrene cards, or at least put some stuffing material inside the fuselage.

 

It is also important to check the weight center of the model. Especially for tricycle landing gears it is important that the weight center is ahead of the main landing gears, or the model will not sit correctly on the main gears and the nosewheel, but instead on the main gears and the model's tail. A few bolts or lead weights in the nose cone takes care of this. Just make sure that the weights are firmly attached, or they might shake loose during the consecutive building steps and rattle inside the model - very annoying!

 

If you can, try to place the cockpit tub in position at the same time as you join the fuselage halves. If you first glue the cockpit tub onto one half of the fuselage (as it is often described in the instructions), you risk ending up with a very nasty and hard-to-conceal gap appearing on the other side.

 

Assembling the fuselage halves, the wing halves and the wings to the fuselage is a very pleasant step - it is the first time that you can apprehend the size and the shapes of the model. But it can also be a tricky step as you will have to glue quite large pieces of plastic together, and it is just all too easy to mess up! Also make sure that the fit is as close to perfect as it's possible. Practice dry-fitting the parts at least two or three times before start squeezing the glue.

 

Once the parts are joined but before the glue has cured, check all the mating lines, so that the parts are not offset a little bit. It's best to examine the mating lines in a strong light source coming from the side. If you miss this part, you will later have to perform some very hard filling, sanding and panel line rescribing sessions to remedy the problem.

 

Even the best model and the most careful dry-fitting will often result in a "seam" or join line between the assembled parts. Removing the seams and join lines is essential for the model to look as a fine replica of a real life object, and not just a bunch of plastic parts sloppily glued together.

 

Some assemblies almost always tend to result in unnatural gaps or cracks between the parts. Usual problem areas are for instance the wing roots (where the wings meet the fuselage of the aircraft) and the mating line between the left and the right part of the fuselage. If left unattended, these areas will give your model a rather "toy-like" appearance.

 

Getting rid of these areas is really not a hard or complicated work, but it will take time, patience and a few tools: a sharp model knife (X-Acto knife), some wet-and-dry sandpaper of various grades (600 - 1500 grade), model putty, primer and a paint brush or an airbrush.

 

Sometimes - on more expensive Japanese models - only some scraping with the back of the blade is needed to make the worst mating lines disappear. But on other models, several filling and sanding sessions must often be done.

[Boelcke]

Hi. Do you mean modern military vehicles and figures?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Yep. Planes, ships, armored vehicles. Mostly modern. Im currently working on a 1/72 F-14 Tomcat. Ill try posting pics here when Im done. Kaso baka matagalan ng konti.

 

[Dr_PepPeR]

Yep. Planes, ships, armored vehicles.  Mostly modern. Im currently working on a 1/72 F-14 Tomcat. Ill try posting pics here when Im done. Kaso baka matagalan ng konti.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Kewl! We'll be waiting sir!

[artvader]

any tips on how to do "aztec-ing"?

[Yu-gi-oh]

yun ang wala ko patient....kaya nagbebenta na lang me.....