Dreaming To Be A Famous Photographer

[gooei]

btw, anyone here knows where to buy one of those portable tabletop studios? how much the cost?

Edited November 30, 2007 by gooei

[pnoize2k4]

aha! andito pala kayo ha! hehehe....i guess i should keep checking this thread as well

[agxo3]

btw, anyone here knows where to buy one of those portable tabletop studios? how much the cost?

 

Not hard to make one yourself. All it takes is a few lights (go to Ace hardware and buy the halogen work lights), a piece of flexible material for the background (a nice, clean, not wrinkled bedsheet works just fine), some other sheets or white cloth to hang in front of the lights to diffuse the light a bit. Some large pieces of cardboard that you stretch some aluminum foil over to use as reflectors. And a sheet of flat black material (some mat board works just fine) to act as a light absorber if you need to light one side but not reflect light over to the other side. Voila! You have your own table top lighting setup!

 

Get creative, guys. You DON'T have to buy everything. A lot of what you need is just at your fingertips. For example, I have always used a (clean!) white handkerchief as a diffuser for my flash so that shadows are not too harsh. Cheap, easy, handy - what more can you ask for?

[kapitan_kidlat2001]

Not hard to make one yourself. All it takes is a few lights (go to Ace hardware and buy the halogen work lights), a piece of flexible material for the background (a nice, clean, not wrinkled bedsheet works just fine), some other sheets or white cloth to hang in front of the lights to diffuse the light a bit. Some large pieces of cardboard that you stretch some aluminum foil over to use as reflectors. And a sheet of flat black material (some mat board works just fine) to act as a light absorber if you need to light one side but not reflect light over to the other side. Voila! You have your own table top lighting setup!

 

Get creative, guys. You DON'T have to buy everything. A lot of what you need is just at your fingertips. For example, I have always used a (clean!) white handkerchief as a diffuser for my flash so that shadows are not too harsh. Cheap, easy, handy - what more can you ask for?

tnx sir! this post will be very useful!

[pareng pare]

can anyone help me understand what's the differnce between a jpe, jpg, raw, format? whats the best format used to use in capturing images? and why.

thanks in advance

[perfectass]

alin ang mas maganda nikon D40X or canon EOS400 ? thanks!!!

[calistoga]

still am a PnS clicker but have picked up a lot of ideas and insights in this thread. thanks to all the contributors. i hope to add to simple tricks and treats to photobugs someday. cheers!

[agxo3]

can anyone help me understand what's the differnce between a jpe, jpg, raw, format? whats the best format used to use in capturing images? and why.

thanks in advance

 

JPG is the 3-letter file extension for JPREG images. Not sure what JPE is, but I would guess it's also JPEG> RAW is the image as it comes directly off the sensor. No manipulation, no compression, not even extracting the RGB out of the Bayer pattern.

 

I prefer RAW. Why? Because to me it's like having a negtive. IN fact, Adobe has a RAW to DNG (digital negative format) converter that preserves all the original image data. Converting to JPEG in the camera is, for me, a REALLY, REALLY bad ting to do. You let the camera make the first level exposure compensation decision for you. THEN you compress the file with a lossy compression scheme.

 

Simple truth about digital data (or ANY data for that matter) - once it's lost, it's lost, and no amount of clever extrapolation schemes will ever truly reconstruct the lost data. Once you go from an uncompressed format to a compressed format, you stand a really good chance of losing vital data. Every time you open then save an image in JPEG, you stand the chance of losing more and more data. Why should I do that to myself?

 

Why should I not try to preserve EVERYTHING that I captured, then make MY OWN decisions on how to extract the image information in the manner that best represents what I want the image to be? Why should I let some unknown engineer who may or may not be a photo junkie like me make my exposure, compensation, image extraction, and data extraction decisions for me?

[OTCHOMANN]

Mga masters meron bang forums ng Digital Camera/Photography sa pinas baka you can share naman yung link

 

Thanks a lot

[suteki kuruma]

Mga masters meron bang forums ng Digital Camera/Photography sa pinas baka you can share naman yung link

 

Thanks a lot

 

www.digitalphotographer.com.ph

[pareng pare]

thanks sir agxo3.. ive learned a lot... i really appreciate it...

i already got 2 lenses for my dslr camera.(18-55mm and 55-200mm) . im planning to buy one.. yung

wide angle lense.which of the list would you recommend? or if there are anything not on the list that

you may recommend, much better..what are the letters represents?

e.g. AF - S, DX, IF-ED, f, G? and the difference between a wide angle zoom lense and a wide angle lense

only. thanks again..

 

Wide-Angle Zoom Lenses

AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 12-24mm f/4G IF-ED

AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED

AF-S Zoom-NIKKOR 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED

AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

 

Wide-Angle Lenses

AF DX Fisheye-NIKKOR 10.5mm f/2.8G ED

AF NIKKOR 14mm f/2.8D ED

AF Fisheye-NIKKOR 16mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 18mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 20mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 24mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 28mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 35mm f/2D

[agxo3]

thanks sir agxo3.. ive learned a lot... i really appreciate it...

i already got 2 lenses for my dslr camera.(18-55mm and 55-200mm) . im planning to buy one.. yung

wide angle lense.which of the list would you recommend? or if there are anything not on the list that

you may recommend, much better..what are the letters represents?

e.g. AF - S, DX, IF-ED, f, G? and the difference between a wide angle zoom lense and a wide angle lense

only. thanks again..

 

Wide-Angle Zoom Lenses

AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 12-24mm f/4G IF-ED

AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED

AF-S Zoom-NIKKOR 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED

AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

 

Wide-Angle Lenses

AF DX Fisheye-NIKKOR 10.5mm f/2.8G ED

AF NIKKOR 14mm f/2.8D ED

AF Fisheye-NIKKOR 16mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 18mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 20mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 24mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 28mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 35mm f/2D

 

Hmmmm - good question! I'm not really up on what all those marking mean for Nikon lenses. The "f", though, is a standard marking that refers to the maximum aperture of the lens.

 

The aperture number given is the ratio of the diameter of the aperture to the focal length of the lens. That is, if the focal length of the lens is 28mm, then the maximum aperture of an f/2.8 lens is 10mm. A lerger aperture means more light enters the camera, so a lens with a large maximum aperture (a small "f" number in the lens spec) will allow a faster shutter speed in low light situations.

 

Zoom vs. prime - a prime is only one focal length, a zoom allows you to vary the focal length.

 

"ED" refers to the dispersion characteristics of the glass. "DX" typically menas it's a lens designed for a digital camera application as opposed to a conventional lens. "AF" means autofocus. "S"??? Who knows? Check the Nikon spec sheets. "IF" typically means "internally focusing" which is one lens focusing method for zoom lenses. Which focal length? Depends on what you want to shoot. I like larger apertures instead of smaller apertures, becasue of the flexibility they give me - I prefer available lighting (ambient lighting) over flash for most of what I do.

 

I personally prefer prime lenses instead of zooms whenever possible. I find primes to be better quality lenses, and cheaper, too!That does not mean that I do not own zooms - I do - but that if I had to choose a lens for a specific application, instead of a general purpose lens, I would choose a prime.

 

All of this is pretty basic stuff, and if you're asking these kinds of questions, then it's clear that, while you are trying to learn (and that's good!) you have a long way to go. I will make the same suggestion to you that I make to all who wish to take up photography - go learn the basics. Pick up a book. Attend classes. Practice. Learn.

Edited December 11, 2007 by agxo3

[mig 22]

Sir, the "S" in the AF-S lens means Silent Wave Motor. It just minimizes the sound it produces when the lens autofocuses.

[cool_as_ice]

just remember if ur using D40x.. not all lens can take advantage of its AF function..

you might as well switch to MF to make use of some lenses..

[Phrozhen.Khold]

Darn... I missed a lot... hehehe

 

 

JPG is the 3-letter file extension for JPREG images. Not sure what JPE is, but I would guess it's also JPEG> RAW is the image as it comes directly off the sensor. No manipulation, no compression, not even extracting the RGB out of the Bayer pattern.

 

I prefer RAW. Why? Because to me it's like having a negtive. IN fact, Adobe has a RAW to DNG (digital negative format) converter that preserves all the original image data. Converting to JPEG in the camera is, for me, a REALLY, REALLY bad ting to do. You let the camera make the first level exposure compensation decision for you. THEN you compress the file with a lossy compression scheme.

 

Simple truth about digital data (or ANY data for that matter) - once it's lost, it's lost, and no amount of clever extrapolation schemes will ever truly reconstruct the lost data. Once you go from an uncompressed format to a compressed format, you stand a really good chance of losing vital data. Every time you open then save an image in JPEG, you stand the chance of losing more and more data. Why should I do that to myself?

 

Why should I not try to preserve EVERYTHING that I captured, then make MY OWN decisions on how to extract the image information in the manner that best represents what I want the image to be? Why should I let some unknown engineer who may or may not be a photo junkie like me make my exposure, compensation, image extraction, and data extraction decisions for me?

 

Just to add... JPEG stands for (Joint Photographic Experts Group)

I shoot RAW as well... aside from the fact that RAW gives you more flexibility in your images... it also discourages me to shoot just about anything because it eats a lot of memory space... this instills discipline to carefully choose my shots...

Like what the master said... its like a digital negative in your cam... I have several images that has been saved because I shot in RAW... sure it would take more time in processing your photos... but believe me... its well worth it

 

thanks sir agxo3.. ive learned a lot... i really appreciate it...

i already got 2 lenses for my dslr camera.(18-55mm and 55-200mm) . im planning to buy one.. yung

wide angle lense.which of the list would you recommend? or if there are anything not on the list that

you may recommend, much better..what are the letters represents?

e.g. AF - S, DX, IF-ED, f, G? and the difference between a wide angle zoom lense and a wide angle lense

only. thanks again..

 

Wide-Angle Zoom Lenses

AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 12-24mm f/4G IF-ED

AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED

AF-S Zoom-NIKKOR 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED

AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

 

Wide-Angle Lenses

AF DX Fisheye-NIKKOR 10.5mm f/2.8G ED

AF NIKKOR 14mm f/2.8D ED

AF Fisheye-NIKKOR 16mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 18mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 20mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 24mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 28mm f/2.8D

AF NIKKOR 35mm f/2D

 

I would actually recommend getting 12-24mm f4 for a wide-angle... but I suggest you get the Tokina equivalent instead of the Nikon one... primarily because the Tokina is HALF the price compared to Nikon... you could spend the money you 'saved' for getting other gear...

 

Happy shooting :thumbsupsmiley:

[pareng pare]

thanks for the enlightenment.. now, ill be able to know what lense to buy..thanks everyone..

[pareng pare]

"Zoom vs. prime - a prime is only one focal length, a zoom allows you to vary the focal length."

 

correct me if im wrong, so when you're using prime lenses, you'll not be able to "zoom in" or "zoom out" your subject?

what's the spec of the lense you recommend for me to buy (for wide angle lense)? yung tipong ang vertical or hirzontal lines

dont appear to be straight lines.. yung nagcucurve na sila..thanks

[Phrozhen.Khold]

"Zoom vs. prime - a prime is only one focal length, a zoom allows you to vary the focal length."

 

correct me if im wrong, so when you're using prime lenses, you'll not be able to "zoom in" or "zoom out" your subject?

what's the spec of the lense you recommend for me to buy (for wide angle lense)? yung tipong ang vertical or hirzontal lines

dont appear to be straight lines.. yung nagcucurve na sila..thanks

 

The only difference between zooms & primes are 'manual & auto' zooms... with primes you have to zoom in or out manually... meaning you'll have to walk towards or away from your subject... hehehehe

 

The one I recommended (12-24mm / f4 - Tokina) is a great UWA lens. Very minimal distortion compared to its UWA counterparts for half the price of its Nikon equivalent :thumbsupsmiley:

[wek1012]

can an slr lens be used for a dslr?

[thirteen]

can an slr lens be used for a dslr?

 

it depends on the SLR lens and the particular DSLR...it would help if you could be more specific.

 

For Canon cameras, as long as the lens is an EF mount (canon lenses that have auto-focus), yes they can be used on ANY Canon DSLR

 

For Nikon, not all auto-focus lenses can be used, especially if you're planning to use it on a D40 or D40x

 

For Minolta auto focus lenses, you can still use them on the Sony Alpha cameras, or the older (and defunct) Konica-Minolta Maxxum DSLRs.

 

For Olympus and Panasonic, I would have to say that you're out of luck. those cameras use an entirely new line of lenses (4/3s or four-thirds mount)

 

I'm not sure about Pentax cameras though... never had a Pentax SLR... don't know anyone who has...

Edited December 18, 2007 by thirteen

[wek1012]

it depends on the SLR lens and the particular DSLR...it would help if you could be more specific.

 

For Canon cameras, as long as the lens is an EF mount (canon lenses that have auto-focus), yes they can be used on ANY DSLR

 

For Nikon, not all auto-focus lenses can be used, especially if you're planning to use it on a D40 or D40x

 

For Minolta auto focus lenses, you can still use them on the Sony Alpha cameras, or the older (and defunct) Konica-Minolta Maxxum DSLRs.

 

For Olympus and Panasonic, I would have to say that you're out of luck. those cameras use an entirely new line of lenses (4/3s or four-thirds mount)

 

I'm not sure about Pentax cameras though... never had a Pentax SLR... don't know anyone who has...

 

the lens is minolta. so a lens only works for its own brand's body?

 

meron po kac dad ko slr. lumang luma n. cguro may 10+ years old n to. it has not been used for a long time already, ok p b to? d nmn cguro to nasira noh?

 

question, are there people still using slrs?

 

i don't have an digicam but i have interest in photography. ok b n buy ng dslr agad? plano ko enroll ng photography class sa summer.

[storm]

Tagal ko ng di nadaan dito. Okay yung 50mm Nikkor ah!.

 

I'll try to buy one when I go to Hidalgo tomorrow kung mga 4k lang.

[thirteen]

the lens is minolta. so a lens only works for its own brand's body?

 

meron po kac dad ko slr. lumang luma n. cguro may 10+ years old n to. it has not been used for a long time already, ok p b to? d nmn cguro to nasira noh?

 

question, are there people still using slrs?

 

i don't have an digicam but i have interest in photography. ok b n buy ng dslr agad? plano ko enroll ng photography class sa summer.

 

 

Yes, your minolta lens will only work on Minolta bodies. Check to make sure that your Minolta lens is auto-focus. If it is, then you can probably use it on the newer Sony Alpha DSLRs. If it's manual focus only, then your out of luck, as that lens will only work on manual-focus Minolta SLRs.

 

There are still some people who use film SLRs, as film still has its advantages over digital. Many photographers switched to digital mainly to improve their workflow for demanding deadlines. when it comes to personal projects, some people go back to film. I know some classes actually encourage the newbies to start with film cameras first before jumping to DSLRs.

[hunk2376]

Hi i dunno if i could call myself a photographer, but i can say that i'm a hobbyists. I love taking pictures and i just carry my camera anywhere i go.

 

Here's the thing, some girl just message me in my email.

"Alessia C." < alessiacce@gmail.com > wrote:

 

Just wanted to know if you would be interested in doing a shoot?

I'm coming to CT in a week for 3 weeks.

Visiting family, so figured why not.

 

Do you have myspace or facebook account?

 

Also, how long have you been shooting for?

 

Me, I'm 18, 5'5 brown hair, busty (32D-natural), firm/toned body.

Will do implied nudity, but not full.

 

Let me know and please respond ASAP.

I'm gonna contact other photographers, but you're the first one.

 

Thanks,

 

Alessia

 

I do have a camera, but i really don't have any equipments or so. I would love to do a photoshoot with this chick but what could i tell her?should i accept this?

Edited December 19, 2007 by hunk2376

[pareng pare]

The only difference between zooms & primes are 'manual & auto' zooms... with primes you have to zoom in or out manually... meaning you'll have to walk towards or away from your subject... hehehehe

 

The one I recommended (12-24mm / f4 - Tokina) is a great UWA lens. Very minimal distortion compared to its UWA counterparts for half the price of its Nikon equivalent :thumbsupsmiley:

 

 

thanks for the recommendation....i'll find that one...and try if its compatible