Dr_PepPeR

I'm in the process of putting together a USS Voyager kit now... been at it for a year already (with this kit). Am still in the painting stage cuz it's really hard to find the colors I want from the shops...

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There are many alternative sources of paint, such as artists oils or artists acrylics. You can mix your own shades using these. You might want to look at wargamers shops, they also have a lot of hobby paints with weird names, but they tend to be a little expensive. Why not try mixing your own colors using the Tamiya acrylics or enamels? They are readily accessible at the model hobby shops listed a few posts above.

If you have any questions on Unit Investment Trust Funds (UITF) you can post here or PM me. Likewise for any questions related to Trusts such as estate planning, retirement funds, living trusts, investment management accounts, escrows and other agencies.

it's way better to invest your money in mutual fund. the return is between 15-20% per annun, tax-free. in time deposit you're lucky enough if you get 10% per annum less 20% gov. tax.

click here for more info on mutual fund.

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Why go to a mutual fund when you can invest in a (Unit Investment Trust Fund) UITF instead? Most mutual funds let banks do the investing for them so you add another layer of fees to your potential earnings. The concept is the same and the BSP monitors the banks while it is the SEC that monitors mutual funds. The BSP is stricter.

While all the parts are still attached to the sprues, you should wash the parts with a mild dish-washing detergent and tepid water. The plastic is usually quite greasy from the molding process. This grease will cause the paint to adhere poorly to the parts, so as a final preparation. If you feel that the parts are still very oily, you may even scrub them gently with a toothbrush. Just make sure that you don't accidentally break off and flush minor parts down the drain.

When detaching the parts from the molding trees, always cut them off with a pair of scissors, cutters or at least with a hobby knife. Never break them off, because even if they most often will break off at the right place, sometimes you will end up with nasty and hard-to-repair cracks and holes.

This applies even to a higher degree to clear parts, which tend to break and crack more easily, resulting in a more ugly hole - sometimes very hard, or almost impossible to repair

Don't remove all the parts at once, only the parts that are required for one sub-assembly and the parts you want to paint. Before using a part, it must be carefully trimmed, and all excess plastic from the molding process should be cut and sanded off. This excess plastic is called flash, and if you ignore it, it will ruin the appearance of your final model.

Plastic models will not just snap together (well there are snap-together kits too, but those are really mainly just toys). You must use some kind of glue to keep it all in one place. The glue you should use in the first place is called "modeling cement" or "polystyrene glue". This glue contains a welding agent that actually melts the plastic and fuses the two parts together to form a strong bond.

Since model cement works by melting the plastic parts, you cannot glue together painted parts: the paint will isolate the plastic from the glue. Either you will have to remove the paint from the mating surfaces, or you will have to use another kind of glue.

Be careful - you will not be able to separate the two parts once the glue has cured! To avoid trouble, always rehearse putting together the parts first, without glue. Check the join for imperfections or bad fit before you reach for the glue. This is called "dry fitting" and can save you a lot of headaches later.

-both excellent, but i think "the last battle" was his best one. "tlb" was ryan's second book ("tld" was first, and "abtf" was third) and it details the final days of the battle of berlin.

 

some others i recommend:

 

-antony beevor: "stalingrad"

                      "berlin-the downfall 1945"

-william manchester: "american caesar" (about gen. douglas macarthur)

-sven hassel, controversial danish author who claims to have served in the german army during ww2. regardless of controversy his books are bloody brilliant. "legion of the damned" and "wheels of terror" are highly recommended.

-ladislas farago:  "patton: ordeal and triumph" probably the best book about the greatest american field commander in europe, if not in ww2.

-leon uris: "battle cry" marines in ww2

-stephen e ambrose: "band of brothers" (everyone knows this)

-bernard fall: "hell in a very small place" (fall of bien phu)

-gen harold moore: "we were soldiers once...and young"  (forget the movie, read this)

-mark bowden: "black hawk down"

there's a shitload more, but i can't be arsed listing them all down.

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Yes, I forgot about "The Last Battle", thanks for making me look for it in my collection.

William Manchester's "Goodbye Darkness" is also an interesting read. He talks about his USMC experience. I am also collecting literature on the USMC. Krulak's "First to Fight" discusses the fight of the USMC in Congress to remain in existence as a separate arm of the US Armed Forces. I have some books on the Pacific campaign like Guadalcanal, Okinawa, Iwo Jima, Tarawa, Peleliu but I still want more. In the Korean War, I am also compiling literature on the Chosin Reservoir campaign.

I wish I was into military history novels but I'm not.  I'm more into books that focus on the technical and tactical details discussing the following topics:

 

1.  Planes of the Luftwaffe and Luftwaffe aces

2.  Wehrmacht's military strategies in the Eastern Front (Stalingrad, Kurst, German Retreat, Leningrad, etc.)

3.  Development of the German Army from 1933-1945

4.  Blitzkrieg tactics

5.  Biographies of German military heroes (Erwin Rommel, Heinz Guderian, etc.)

6.  U-boat Campaigns (1939-1945)

 

Though I do not agree with Germany's anti-Semitic politics during the period, I am amazed at the advances they made in the field of battlefield strategy, and the development of the first jet fighter (Me-262) and the first modern submarine (Type XXIII).

 

It took the full might of the US, British, and Russian forces to destroy this military machine.

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Not all of Hitler's generals were Nazis. I think that certain of the Waffen SS divisions were one of the most courageous soldiers, and the Wehrmacht's NCOs were unquestionably the best.

As to technology, I still think they wasted too much energy on wild development projects such as the E-100 and the use of the Me 262 as a bomber.

So I also collect books on the panzers and luftwaffe, no denying the technoligical advantage of the Germans there.

I like his books, too.

 

Also, I collected (and still do) Tom Clancy's non-fiction titles and Jane's.

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So do I. Budget constraints force me to buy the tradebook format of Tom Clancy's Non fiction. I have several books on aircraft, tanks and other vehicles. I also collect biographies such as Burkes "Chesty Puller", Fargo's "Patton" and "American Ceasar" by William Manchester.

Crinkle, an 8 month black Chinese Sharpei

yes all resins are unpainted.  You can paint it by yourself and thats where money comes innif you are really a good artist.

Same also with scale models.  since young I am into scale models, but I only collect Nimtz and submarines.  Then selling it to collectors only.

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You mean USS Nimitz and subs only? What scale are they? I am also into scale models but mostly armor, aircraft and figures in different scales. I have been looking for nude/seminude female resin figurines to paint, preferably in 54mm. Would you know where I can find these?

When building models, you will often work with different chemicals so it is important that your working area is easily cleaned and not too sensitive for some spill. Working directly on your precious narra desk is for instance a very bad idea. Myself, I just use the kitchen table after having covered it up with some discarded newspapers.

In any way, try to find some space where you can work for several hours without being bothered, as you may have to leave glued or painted parts in place overnight without moving them.

Your workspace should be a flat, dry and dust-free place. A good light source is essential: you will be working with a number of teensy parts made of grayish plastic. Joysticks, missile fins and landing gear struts are not very visible, especially when they disappear under the table - and trust me, they will. A high-intensity desk light with a built in magnifier glass is great, but I strongly recommend using low energy light bulbs - they will be able to illuminate your workspace without melting the surface of your model.

Also make sure that you have a couple of glass or plastic jars with a closable lid at hand - they can be used to contain tiny parts and subassemblies, making sure that they will not disappear.

Glue and paint do smell - good or bad is up to your personal taste - and can be pretty hazardous to inhale. When working extensively with an airbrush, you will unavoidably create a fine mist of paint that will quickly be disposed by the air all over your working area.

Proper model spray booths are the best choice to prevent this, but otherwise cardboard boxes (such as the one the model kit was packed in) are very good for catching the worst overspray. Otherwise you may have a hard time convincing your spouse that the camouflage colors of the Third Reich is a tasteful color selection for the kitchen walls.

If you're working with toxic paints and thinners, you should never work with your models in your living space, such as your bedroom. Not only because of the smell, but you have only this many brain cells - and they will not regenerate.

But even if you're using non-toxic paints, good ventilation is necessary. Make sure that you can open the window and create a good draft. Avoid working with your paints and glues for a very long time - take a break, stretch out and go and get some fresh air!

The basic toolkit consists of the following items:

•A hobby knife with changeable blades (like X-Acto knifes)

•A couple of sheets of wet-and-dry sandpaper (starting from like 600 grit down to at least 1500 grit)

•A pair of pliers or tweezers

•Paint brushes (#00 and #1 size)

•Modeling cement (styrene cement)

•Superglue (cyanoacrylic glue)

•Masking tape (8 - 15 mm)

•Model paints

For the more ambitious modeler, this setup should be completed with a dual action airbrush with compressor and even a small Dremel power tool - great for those of you who want to drill up cannon barrels and exhaust pipes.

Anything by Isaac Asimov.

Ms. K,

I was in love with you, yes, just like you I thought it was lust. Not anymore though. Everytime I feel anything like yearning for you, all I have to do is look at your picture with Mr. L. I still feel the pain everytime I do that, but slowly anger is getting the upper hand.

Thank you for keeping secrets from me.

Thank you for not remembering and greeting me on my birthday.

Thank you for ignoring my YM.

Thank you for not texting me except when you need something.

I still miss you.

Take care always, I really must move on.

Love,

Dr PepPeR

Sursurrus - one of the best examples of onomatopeia.

My favorite all-time military author is Cornelius Ryan for his books "The Longest Day" and "A Bridge Too Far". What books/authors are your favorites?

Gideon's Spies by Gordon Thomas

A dirty T-shirt which I'm using to wipe off the perspiration from my palms while typing.

i want to learn how to lie, cheat and steal...

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That's easy! Be a politician!

Sayaw ng Tango.

My good friend collects Barbie dolls. Where can I buy collectible grade Barbies? I've already tried the more obvious places. Thanks.

Normally people refer to a modeling project by the following steps:

1. Read the instructions

2. Cut the required part from the runner

3. Glue the part in place

4. Paint the model

5. Attach the decals

This is of course a very simplified method. Even if you can put together all the parts in the kit and have fun while doing it, you will not be able to create an authentic model. There are several important additional steps that should be taken and carefully worked out.

Start with reading the instructions, studying the sprues and getting an understanding how the different parts will be assembled. I must admit, that sometimes I can't resist cutting off the main parts and test the fit to try to see the size and shape of the final model. Put the decal sheet in a binder where it is safe from sunlight and humidity. Also put away the clear parts to avoid unnecessary handling and scratching.

Next, look for references. The Internet is my main source of information, but lots of useful pictures and descriptions can be found in magazines and books as well. If there are several alternative versions you can build out of the same model kit, this is the time to make up your mind for which one to go for.

To be able to create an exact scale replica, you may wish to add more realism than what you can achieve by only reading the instruction leaflet provided in the kit. Finding references to the specific model you are building is an important part of any serious modeling.

Sometimes you can try to visit the original object in a museum or - if it's a more modern object - in real life. If not, then there is often a vast amount of information in books, magazines and of course on the Internet. Photos are great for being able to pinpoint the exact color scheme of an aircraft or to find out exactly where that decal is supposed to sit. And it's also a very nice feeling to see that your model actually resembles the real thing.

Your project must be planned very carefully, and you must perform the building steps in correct order, or they will make later steps much harder - or impossible - to perform.

It is also very important to check that all the required parts are provided with the kit. Sometimes parts are missing from a kit, or they are broken due to careless handling in some warehouse. If you discover that parts are missing, you can either take back the kit to the shop for a replacement, or you can write a letter to the manufacturer of the model and ask them to help you. Model companies usually take their after market support very seriously and will provide you with the missing parts.

You should really read the instructions, or you may end up doing silly mistakes that cannot be fixed later on, such as forgetting to install internal parts before gluing together the fuselage.

Try to understand the different parts of the assembly instead of just blindly following the instructions. Sometimes the instructions are not as clear as they should and quite often some assembly steps have to be performed in a different order than what's described in the instruction sheet. You may for instance need to paint some parts before you glue them in place, or you will not be able to do it later. It may be impossible to paint the dashboard inside a cockpit when the seat, the joystick and the pilot figure is in place.

You may also need to attach some decals at an earlier stage, like if the instrument panel of the cockpit is supplied as a decal or if a decal will be partially hidden by a subassembly.

pasali po.......

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Sure, welcome!

Before starting a new model project, try to make up your mind about what you want to achieve with it. Be realistic - if this is the first time you touch an airbrush, or if this is your very first model kit, don't expect it to be an IPMS-winner. Settle for something less. Don't compare your results with what you may have seen in the magazines, and try to enjoy building your model straight out of the box. There is nothing wrong with just having a good time building a reasonably pretty model to be sitting on the shelf to be admired by yourself and your friends.

You also need decide on if you want to build the model straight out of the box, or if you want to superdetail it to the limits of your skills. Can you stand having a model project to stretch through a couple of months, or do you just want to spend a few weekends working on it? If you - like myself - have very little spare time for model building, maybe you are quite happy if you can finish a model in reasonable time without adding more detail that is already in the box.

It's generally a good idea to focus only on a few details that makes the model appear gorgeous without actually being a perfect masterpiece. For aircraft, I believe that the most important part is the cockpit area. This will definitely be the first thing that draws everybody's attention.

People will try to peek inside the tiny cockpit and a nicely detailed instrument panel, a good ejection seat and a perfectly masked/painted canopy will immediately impress everybody. I usually like to add a crew figure sitting in the cockpit as it makes the size of the real object more comprehensible.

i collect star wars unlimited edition only. Also solid resins figurines.

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Are the resin figurines unpainted?

2006 Civic V (Manual)

2000 Corolla LE

Modelers often like to give their models a "weathered" and worn look, with simulated stains from engine exhausts, hydraulic fluid leakage, sun-bleached paint, mud stains, chipped paint, battle damage, rust and dirt. When done properly, a model can look absolutely stunning - it can sometimes be hard to tell whether a photograph shows a model or the real object.

Of course, for a professional result a lot of research has to be done - a major part of a model building project in fact consists of collecting information of the specific type of vehicle - and even the specific individual aircraft (or tank or whatever).

Deciding which model to buy and build can be pretty tough sometimes. There are thousands of models you can choose from, but most model builders like to stick to a certain type of model, scale and to a certain time in history - like German aircraft in scale 1/72 from World War Two.

The most usual model kits are injection kits made of polystyrene plastic. Styrene, as it is also called, is a very smooth material that can be molded into delicate and precise shapes with very fine raised or recessed details. The material can be cut, sanded, filed and drilled and is quite easy to glue and paint.

The plastic material is suitable for models with sizes ranging from about four inches to two feet. For smaller models, the molding technique proves too crude - the plastic itself cannot be molded thin and crisp enough to display all the necessary details. Larger models are on the other hand more difficult to produce without other problems, such as parts becoming warped out of shape. The finished model would also be too heavy and too large for normal display. They would also be way too expensive to purchase.

There are several companies making injection molded model kits. Some of the most known ones are Revell/Monogram, Airfix, Hasegawa, Tamiya, Dragon, Trumpeter, Academy and Italeri. There are also a number of smaller companies producing limited run models, vacu-formed models or replacement parts made of other materials, such as resin.

Something I'd like to share with you:

First of all, let's focus on what plastic model kits are not: they are not toys. In fact, the finished models are too fragile to be handled except with the greatest care. You can't give them to the kids to play with, and you can't even use them as doorstops or paperweights.

A plastic model is actually totally unusable when finished - their only purpose is to sit on the shelf, collecting dust and look great (or even cute as my wife would say). But as any model builder would agree, managing to catch the spirit of a powerful real life object in miniature form is a truly fulfilling experience.

Most models depict a vehicle of some kind: a car, a truck, a ship, a tank or an aircraft. Since I am an aviation enthusiast, I will on these pages most often refer to models of aircraft, but most of the time the same techniques apply to all other types of models as well.

Aircraft models most often represent military objects. It is not because model builders particularly like war or combat but because the coolest aircraft are and have always been used as instruments of destruction.

Modelers also like to build vehicles from different countries and periods of time without this reflecting a certain political point of view. For instance, most model kits of German aircraft from the second world war are supplied with decal sheets without the swastikas. While this is perfectly understandable from the political point of view, it's totally unacceptable for a realistic model kit. So when the model builder purchases additional decals with different types of swastikas to add to the tailfin of his World War II German bomber, you must understand that he does this in order to create an authentic replica of a historic vehicle - and not because he in any way sympathizes with Hitler's political ideology.

The keyword for most model enthusiasts is authenticity. Extreme care must be taken if the goal is to create a believable and correct scale replica. Artifacts that are not present on the real thing are considered as being "bad" - like plastic mould lines, gaps between parts, visible glue spots, fingerprints, incorrect markings and out-of-scale details.

Of course there is nothing to stop you from buying a model kit in a toy shop and smack it together in ten or twenty minutes with glue dripping from every seam. Most often this is how most model builders start their career as children (including myself). Nobody will punish you for painting an F-16 jet fighter in purple color, if this gives you pleasure. The main thing is to have fun! But most of the time, hobby model builders strive for realism and authenticity.

More later....