Dr_PepPeR

I'd put up a PSP business.

so there's no reason to panic as long as i'm for the long haul? i got burned the past week with the drop in the Fixed Income fund.

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That is correct sir. You need to stay in UITF for about a year if you want to take advantage of your fund manager's expertise and resources. Remember, the prices change DAILY so you win some, you lose some day to day but remember in the long run, the power of time and compounding plus active management should give you a lot more than handling the investments yourself.

Until you get out of the UITF by redemption, remember that any loss or gain is UNREALIZED.

Another area of interest for me is the science fiction military genre, like novels and short stories by David Drake, Jerry Pournelle, Harry Turtledove and William Dietz.

Yep. Planes, ships, armored vehicles.  Mostly modern. Im currently working on a 1/72 F-14 Tomcat. Ill try posting pics here when Im done. Kaso baka matagalan ng konti.

 

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Kewl! We'll be waiting sir!

I noticed that NAVpus when down but I still don't understand the reason why it did. Care to explain? Likewise can we expect the correction to continue. I noticed some went down 3 straight days.

Thanks.

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Sir, I hope you will bear with me on this. UITFs operate on the mark-to-market principle which means that the assets of the fund are valued at the price they are sold on the financial market. This valuation is done every day so in some ways they behave like stocks in that the values can go up or down on a daily basis. Now, since UITF funds are relatively new, they have a lot of long term investments, which will provide higher rates than short term investments. If the interest rates go down, the demand for long term investments go up, since investors would like to have the higher yielding instruments for a longer term. The opposite happens when interest rates go up. Since demand for short term instruments will thus increase (because investors would like to have the option to shift to other higher yielding investments when the instruments they hold mature), demand for long term goes down, and thus, the market price goes down. Interest rates were either moving down or sideways until a few days ago when it started moving up. Some factors also that may have affected the financial market is that the government has not been borrowing too much (in the form of GS) and the price of oil is still up. NAVPUs started going down as a consequence but the fund managers have started to sell their long term instruments since then so the NAVPUs of most of the UIT Funds will start to go back up as the assets with lower values are taken out of the fund. I know it is very technical but that is really the best I can do. Hope it helped.

  I am planning to invest on some sort of Fund, been looking on some prospectus from banco de oro ... can't decide though which way to go, di ko kasi alam ang mga technicalities.

 

What would be the best if I have a 200k investment?

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Sir, there are still some things to consider:

1. What is your risk appetite? If you are conservative, you may want to stay in fixed income instruments, like Government Securities, corporate notes and bonds and other money market instruments. If you are more adventurous, you might want a fund with equities.

2. What is your investment horizon? When do you need to get back your investment - after a month or so, 2-3 years, or longer? You can the look at the investments based on when you need your money back.

3. What is your objective? Is it for your retirement, for buying something or emergencies? This will determine also how liquid you would like your investment to be.

4. What is your experience? How well do you know the market? Do you have the stomach for it?

From here you may be able to match the investment products to what you require.

technical jargon for an abrupt change (usually a drop) in rate or price, which is temporary

and expected to settle or normalize hence a "correction". Hope I did justice on that one...Dr. Pepper. :cool:

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You hit it right on the nail Sir Mandrake. Much better than I could have done.

legal advice po kelangan ko...

 

legal po ba ang 5" hunting knife dalhin sa camping or any outdoor recreation?

 

kung nde naman po ano ang pede ikaso sakin? how many yrs. bubunuin ko kung sakali? ganda kc ng hunting knife ko ayoko i give up hehehehe

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I would think it is. Just imagine all the farmers walking around with their bolos. The restrictions come into play when bringing bladed weapons to public places.

Dura Lex Pyrex

Ha ha, I respectfully beg t agree pala sinabi mo. Akala ko "disagree", hehe:-)

 

No more bunutan oral exams for Badong, at least not in our class.

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My age is showing, he was my prof in Agencies. I still cannot believe the amount of work he made us do for that 2 unit course. Until now I still say in my sleep "By the contract of agency a person binds himself..."

His appointment as Law Dean was marred by some controversy but I guess he means well.

I really miss Prof. Ambion.

Dura Lex Pyrex

Based on documentaries I saw on the History Channel, the Germans decided to hold their panzers in reserve because they were indeed anticipating that Allied landings were going to take place in the Pas de Calais region.  This belief was brought about by a great ruse that the Americans and the British perpetrated on the Germans for months before Overlord.  The Allies created phantom divisions and locations and created radio traffic between these phantom divisions to create the impression among the Germans that the Allied landings will take place in the Calais region.

 

A few German generals (but they were in the minority) really believed that Normandy was the likely point of landing due to the fact that the Allies expected that the Germans WON'T EXPECT them to land there.  It also didn't help either that when the landings started on the early morning of June 6th that the panzers could not be deployed immediately because the Wehrmacht's generals were under very strict orders to obtain Hitler's blessings before the tanks could be deployed.  It is one of the sad and tragic stories of WW2 for the Germans that their supposed great Fuehrer, Hitler, was still asleep and could not be roused from his sleep while his men were getting blasted and dying in Normandy waiting for tanks that came too late to make a difference in the outcome of the battle.

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This is what I have been led to believe too. Unfortunately for the Germans, the deployment of any Panzer Division required the personal clearance of Hitler.

With the cockpit section assembled and painted, it's usually best to start working on the wheels, landing gears and weapons. Even if the description tells you differently, you might as well start on this task right away, because cleaning up drop tanks, missiles and bombs can be quite time consuming. This is even more true for aircraft such as the F-14 Tomcat, carrying a ton of missiles. I like to file down the fins of the missiles as much as I can, so that they won't look like they are made of two inches thick armor plate.

Before joining the fuselage halves, there are a few things to take care of. I recommend that you spray the entire inside of the model black or dark gray. Discovering that you can see naked unpainted plastic through air scoops and other small apertures is not something you want to do. Also don't forget to check if there will be some areas where you can see through the model. On some jet fighter models, sometimes you can actually peek through the jet intakes and see the light at the end of the jet pipe. To prevent this awful effect, either glue sheets of styrene cards, or at least put some stuffing material inside the fuselage.

It is also important to check the weight center of the model. Especially for tricycle landing gears it is important that the weight center is ahead of the main landing gears, or the model will not sit correctly on the main gears and the nosewheel, but instead on the main gears and the model's tail. A few bolts or lead weights in the nose cone takes care of this. Just make sure that the weights are firmly attached, or they might shake loose during the consecutive building steps and rattle inside the model - very annoying!

If you can, try to place the cockpit tub in position at the same time as you join the fuselage halves. If you first glue the cockpit tub onto one half of the fuselage (as it is often described in the instructions), you risk ending up with a very nasty and hard-to-conceal gap appearing on the other side.

Assembling the fuselage halves, the wing halves and the wings to the fuselage is a very pleasant step - it is the first time that you can apprehend the size and the shapes of the model. But it can also be a tricky step as you will have to glue quite large pieces of plastic together, and it is just all too easy to mess up! Also make sure that the fit is as close to perfect as it's possible. Practice dry-fitting the parts at least two or three times before start squeezing the glue.

Once the parts are joined but before the glue has cured, check all the mating lines, so that the parts are not offset a little bit. It's best to examine the mating lines in a strong light source coming from the side. If you miss this part, you will later have to perform some very hard filling, sanding and panel line rescribing sessions to remedy the problem.

Even the best model and the most careful dry-fitting will often result in a "seam" or join line between the assembled parts. Removing the seams and join lines is essential for the model to look as a fine replica of a real life object, and not just a bunch of plastic parts sloppily glued together.

Some assemblies almost always tend to result in unnatural gaps or cracks between the parts. Usual problem areas are for instance the wing roots (where the wings meet the fuselage of the aircraft) and the mating line between the left and the right part of the fuselage. If left unattended, these areas will give your model a rather "toy-like" appearance.

Getting rid of these areas is really not a hard or complicated work, but it will take time, patience and a few tools: a sharp model knife (X-Acto knife), some wet-and-dry sandpaper of various grades (600 - 1500 grade), model putty, primer and a paint brush or an airbrush.

Sometimes - on more expensive Japanese models - only some scraping with the back of the blade is needed to make the worst mating lines disappear. But on other models, several filling and sanding sessions must often be done.

Does anyone know where I can get collector grade Barbie dolls?

Could somebody give me tips on what airbrush to buy and where i can buy it? What's a decent budget to allocate for an airbrush set? Did a few models before in grade school and highschool, but i always used the spray cans for painting. Thing is, the spray cans don't really offer that much control when it comes to detailing. thanks!

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I would recommend the Tamiya Sprayworks. It has a decent airbrush and a decent compressor. I got mine for about 3K a few years ago. Next for me would be a Badger, one of the gravity feed ones, but you will need a decent compressor, not one of those small ones for pumping tires or those diaphragm compressors. I have a Badger 150 and I got it for about 3K then a 1/2 HP compressor with a holding tank for 7K.

BTW does anyone know where I can buy sandpaper with grit of 1800 up to 10000?

Also, anyone where I can get 3M Acryl Blue?

Hi! The certificate looks like something that is given prior to the issuance of a diploma, like for instance if you were looking for a job. It merely says that you have completed the required number of units but there may be some other requirements for graduation. Well, like you mentioned, it seems you need a thesis? One other inane requirement for a diploma that I heard of is settlement of fees. Again, strictly by the language of the certification, it only means you have completed the required number of units. It also means that there may be other requirements that you have not yet met. Just my 2 worthless centavos.

Good day to all Lawyers!

 

Sir, I just want to ask kung may laban ako, kc I was given this certificate last march by the ateneo and now, nung pumunta ako sa school ang sabi, dpa daw ako complete ng academic requirements at kailngan ko pa daw kumuha ng ilan subjects b4 the thesis. E ung certificate n naka issue ang sinsabi ay tapos na daw ako. May laban ba ako sa korte nito, tma po ba, negligence yan sa school dba, na nag issue ng certificate n naka sulat (That, per academic evaluation, the above has completed the required number of units to earn the degree). Tama po ba ako?, please help me.

 

Thank You.

 

CERTIFICATION

 

This is to certify the following about (NAME OF STUDENT):

 

1. That, the above was admitted to Ateneo de Manila University, Loyola School, in First Semester of AY 2003-2004;

2. That, the above is in the program Bachelor of Science in Biology; and

3. That, per academic evaluation, the above has completed the required number of units to earn the degree.

 

This certification is being issued upon the request of the above for whatever legal purpose it may serve.

 

(Signed with the School Dry Seal)

University Registrar

 

DATE

 

NOT VALID WITHOUT SEAL

DOCUMENTARY STAMP.

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Dr. Pepper, your disagreement is noted. Ha ha.

 

Ah, Prof. Carlotta, now Dean. Taught me admin. law. Quite boring but he knows his law. :hypocritesmiley:

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He was my prof in Land Titles and Deeds. So much work for a 2 unit subject! Does he still conduct his infamous bunutan oral exam?

BTW it wasn't a disagreement po!

Ey nice!  Meron palang scale modeling thread dito. Am a scale modeler too, mostly military stuff.  I did try Gundam kits before, but since time is so limited nowadays Im focusing on modern military gear and figures. Post naman kayo ng pics, guys.

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Hi. Do you mean modern military vehicles and figures?

The usual and safest way is to apply for a wire transfer at your US bank where your account is maintained. Fee would vary depending on how your US bank would send the money (via SWIFT or

Fedwire).  Other than the account details of your recipient in BPI, the Routing No. (or SWIFT No.) is required by your sending bank to facilitate the transfer. Like other banks, BPI could easily give such information to their depositors.

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Watch out for the fees! Clear with the transacting banks what their fees are, you might be surprised when you get the net proceeds.

The U.P. College of Law, bar none the best law school in the country :hypocritesmiley:  With all due respect to my paneros here, of course :thumbsupsmiley:

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Ehem... I respectfully beg to agree

BTW, saw Badong C. on TV last night, he looks so old na pala!

i like gundam model kits like this...

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_61601990.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_61601990.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1886_716553958.jpg

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c90/stalkingdemon/tisinc99_1887_58487105.jpg

 

will try to post actual pics of my personal kits

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Sarap i weather mga ito!

podweed wrote:

 

 

others i enjoy reading about:

 

the french foreign legion

the gurkhas (i've worked with them before, and i'll say it again without reservation: they are the best soldiers in the f.u.c.k.i.n.g. universe)

spetsnaz (voiska spetsialnoye naznachenia, russian special forces)

 

any more come to mind i'll be back.

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I have a book on the Gurkhas as well as the History of the French Foreign Legion. Very interesting reading although I felt saddened by what happened to the Gurkhas after India became independent and to the FFL after the mutiny of the parachute brigade in Algiers.

Question, guys:

 

If, in World War 2, Russia had been defeated, do you think the Allies could've successfully mounted an invasion of Festung Europa?

 

I don't think so. Defeating Russia would have enabled the OKH to transfer more panzer and infantry divisions to beef up the defenses in France. When the allies invaded, the Panzer Divisions were kept as a mobile reserve, stationed some miles beyond the beach. If more Panzer Divisions were available, they could have been staged closer to the invasion areas and could have stopped the allies cold at the beaches.

 

And conversely, if Overlord foundered in the Channel, would the Reich have had enough fight left in it to stop the Red Army?

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I still think the Red Army was unstoppable in 1945, especially after Sorge's intelligence coup that Japan would not invade the USSR. This enable Stalin to pour the whole resources of the Red Army to roll up Berlin. The Reich would still have been forced to "watch their back" in France, and would in effect be still fighting a two front war.

Hehe. Your friend could hold a seance maybe? Kidding.

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Yep, that was what I was thinking. Kidding too.

Just bought a book for P95.00 called Gates of Fire by Steven Pressfield about the battle of Thermopylae. Looks interesting. I'll probably finish it by tomorrow.

Mga Bossing If I try selling Scale model D2 may bibili kaya, I often go abroad andd= I think I can Get 1 or 2 on my way back.....

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Yes you could but I suggest you get an order list. For kits, you can get Hasegawa, Finemolds from Japan and if you go elsewhere, maybe the Eastern European kitmakers like Eduard, Roden and other hard to find kits. You might also want to consider buying aftermarket sets like paint, resin, photoetch, decals or even tools. Just be sure you have your buyers waiting for you here since the market for the hobby is not that big here.

Watch out - if you should get glue on a part, which is not to be glued, the glue will melt the plastic and destroy the surface of the part. If you see a small amount of glue being forced out in the join between the glued parts, resist the urge to wipe it off, or you will just smear it all over the surface and render the parts useless. Instead, wait until the glue has dried completely (it takes a day or two) and then just sand it off. It may even help to disguise the join.

While the glue cures, you should press the parts together to form a strong bond. This is most easily done by using rubber bands, clothespins, or even self-adhesive tape (masking, scotch or magic tape). Be sure to let the parts dry at least one day before doing anything more with it at this point.

By the way, the only way to make a good and pretty model is by having patience - tons of it! Often there is a lot of waiting time between two modeling steps. If you think it's boring having to wait two days after a major glue-job, why don't you work on more than one model at a time? Then you can always have something to do if you feel like it, even if one model is in "the drying phase". Lack of patience will only result in a sloppy job and an ugly model.

Advanced modelers often use superglue or cyanoacrylic glue. This is more useful when you want to glue together painted parts, need extremely strong glue joins, or when you want to fill a small gap between the mating surfaces. Superglue is also your only choice if the model you're building feature metal parts (quite common for more advanced models).

But don't use superglue on clear parts, because the fumes released as the glue cures will fog up and ruin the clear plastic parts before you know what's happening.

Superglue cures very quickly and can be sanded smooth when dry. But it's just all too easy to glue together your fingers by accident. It may sound hilarious, but is quite a frightening experience. And painful too, because superglue is very, very strong. Should you accidentally glue together your fingers, don't try to separate them, or you will lose the skin on them. Instead put your fingers under the running tap, as hot as you can stand and carefully and slowly pull your fingers apart. Using disposable gloves is not such a bad idea and never ever touch your face and eyelashes while using superglue.

Other types of glue that can be used in modeling is white glue, which dries clear and is easier to work with. Most often white glue is useful for cementing clear parts, such as canopies and windscreens, but they will not form a strong bond and cannot be used to glue together large parts or parts that need strength.

If you can, always assemble and paint the whole cockpit section before inserting it into the fuselage, as it will be nearly impossible to do later. Leave the ejection seat to be the last item you glue in place, because you really should make this piece as pretty as you can and it's a lot easier to work with if it's not glued in place.

If there is a pilot figure provided, try to do something with it to make it look more like a human than a showroom dummy. Try sawing off the arms and the head and reposition them to make the figure look like saluting, working the radar panel or making notes on the kneeboard.

You can also add custom made seat belts made of strips of masking tape. An ugly molded on oxygen hose can be replaced by a bit of thin electric wire (with the isolation part still in place). All these are very simple conversions and will make the model more impressing. Nearly all kits from the same model company contains the same pilot figure, so if you don't want the crew of your model fleet look like an army of clones you will have to do something with them anyway.

Sure, but it'll be difficult to get in touch with him as he's been dead since '93.

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Sayang, I'll move over to the Supernatural and Occult thread.