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Boelcke

[05] MEMBER III
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Posts posted by Boelcke

  1. Cholorform probably has the active ingredient that melts styrene plastic so it probably works like Tenax or Ambroweld. That sounds like a good idea sir! Where do you buy yours? Can you get it in small amounts? Thanks!

     

    Doc

     

    Chloroform used to be available in Mercury Drug outlets in as small as 250ml bottles. But now they dont carry it. You can still buy it in chemical companies, and -- in the UST area --- at Joli's store in the corner of Espana and Forbes. You can buy it there in 1 liter servings at around P300. A liter will last you about two years if youre a heavy builder. I tranfer smaller amounts in smaller containers and seal the bigger bottle so it wont dry up. I use a cheap painter's pointed brush (available in National Bookstore bargain bins) to apply the chloroform.

     

    :)

  2. Taxi,

     

    Yep, I also have the jeweler's files in my unruly toolbox, along with a set of X-Acto micro drill set. Buying tools is part of the fun, really. And part of the expense too, unfortunately.

     

    Turtle wax is useful only for car finishes. For plane and tank builders you really dont need that amount of shine. :)

     

    Btw, since nobody seems to be posting pics of their works lately, allow me please to break the ice. Heres a pic of a Royal Australian Air Force Hawk I built a couple of years ago. Hope you like it.

     

    http://photos.kitmaker.net/data/500/3491Hawk_6.jpg

  3. Like your handle. He was one of Herr Rittmeister's idols. Mga ka-level nila Immelmann. Wish I could join their Staffel.

     

    Thanks. He was the one who wrote down the fighter pilot's edict.

     

     

     

    Dr Pepper

     

    Yes, it doesnt melt plastic unlike liquid cement. I used liquid cement for about a decade before I shifted to a combination of superglue and --- believe it or not --- chloroform.

     

    Chloroform is much cheaper, and much more liquid than even the finest liquid cement available today. If I need to melt plastic parts together, I use this. And for gaps, and areas where instant bonding is required, I use superglue.

     

    Yes, its hard to sand (I use a combination of 400-grit then 800-grit then 1000-grit sandpaper), but its this hardness that stops any shrinkage, giving you a more solid filler. :D

  4. Thanks... I already tried using the tamiya cement in the pic shown... but the problem is... its really too thin... meaning the 'parting line' still shows after I applied a generous amount already... :thumbsdownsmiley:

     

    Have you guys tried superglue (Mighty Bond, for example)? Parting lines or seams sometimes wont go away regardless of how much glue or putty you put into the gap because of shrinkage. Most putties Ive tried (with the exception of Milliput) suffer from some shrinkage as time goes by, and the seams begin to reappear.

     

    For hairline gaps and seams superglue might just be what you need. It dries really hard and has almost no shrinkage. Just glue the parts together, then apply sparingly (just enough to cover the gap). Let dry, then sand smooth.

     

    :)

  5. Doc,

     

    You know Roel pala. I used to frequent his shop din but havent been there that frequently these last couple of years. Is he still into fishing?

     

    Btw, Ive used both the dental scribing tool and the needle-and-chuck/XActo handle rig, and I still prefer the latter. The dental tool scribes away a lot of plastic and has a bigger diameter than the needle. The panel lines you scribe may be too big for 1/48 and 1/72 kits, not to mention 1/144. So now I use it only to mark areas I intend to cut open.

  6. Ey nice! Meron palang scale modeling thread dito. Am a scale modeler too, mostly military stuff. I did try Gundam kits before, but since time is so limited nowadays Im focusing on modern military gear and figures. Post naman kayo ng pics, guys.

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