Dreaming To Be A Famous Photographer

[xycho_g]

oh ya....i forgot iso 100 lng gamit kong film...ano kaya kalalabasan nun?...oh well practice tlga pag dating sa photography...

 

cge ill post the pictures ive taken pagnascan ko na...

[agxo3]

Need i say more ... Bow to bro Master Phrozen :thumbsupsmiley:

 

Speaking of Aperture and my small contri to the topic:

The F as in the f/2, f/2.8 , f/5.6 etc. is also know as the F-stop. Rule of thumb is , the larger the f-number, the smaller the aperture (or openning of the "iris") and thus the shallower the DOF (Depth of Field) is.

 

WRONG!!!!! - that's exactly opposite of what is the "rule of thumb" is. First, it's not a rule of thumb - it's a real physical effect dictated by physics.

 

f-stops are calculated by the following folmula f-number = f / d where f = focal length of the lens, and d = diameter of the aperture. So, as the aperture diameter (and therefore the aperture) gets smaller, the f-number gets larger.

 

A smaller aperture will have a smaller diameter therefore the f-number will be larger for a smaller aperture and smaller for a larger aperture. Depth of field is defined as the range of distances from the center of your lens that an object will appear to be sharp, and in focus. A smaller aperture (larger f-number) INCREASES your depth of field. A larger aperture (SMALLER f-number) DECREASES your depth of field.

 

Why is this important? For two reasons -

 

The first has to do with how the objects in your image look. Do you want EVERYTHING to be sharp (or at least as sharp as can be)? Then use a smaller aperture (LARGER f-number). Or do you want only the object you are focusing onto be sharp and as much of the rest as possible to be less sharp, or even downright blurred? Use a larger aperture (SMALLER f-number).

 

The second has to do with exposure, or, how bright your images appear to be. Smaller apertures (LARGER f-number) let in less light so to achieve the image brightness you want you will have to use a SLOWER shutter speed. Otherwise, your images will be dark, or as some will call it, underexposed. Larger apertures (SMALLER f-number) let in more light, so to achieve the brightness you want, you will need to use a FASTER shutter speed. Otherwise your images will be too bright, or as some will call it, overexposed.

 

Digital technology is much less tolerant of errors in exposure than film is. Most color films will have a dynamic range (the range of light than can be recorded) of somewhere between 11 and 13 "stops". Many b/w films will have up to 15 stops of dynamic range. The typical CCD or CMOS sensor will have from 4-6 stops of linear response, and an additional 4 stops (2 at the high end and 2 at the low end) of compressed (non-linear) response. Therfore is you are using film, you can overexpose and underexpose by (for color film) up to 2 stops 9, and for many b/w films up to 4 stops. That's called film latitude.

 

There is very little latitude in digital imaging. Digital images are prone to blowing out (clipping) the highs (whites) and blocking up the shadows. You can notice this very easily when you look at a digital image and you see large bright areas where the image is pure white or pure black.

 

All is not lost, however - in most digital SLRs you have the option of saving your images in RAW format. This is highly advised. Why? Because if you use a RAW converter to extract your image, then you can first of all, save the image as a 48 bit image (16 bits each for red, green and blue) AND, second, you can usually adjust how you place the center of your dynamic range to extract as much of the "extra" bits of data in the highs and lows that are actually captured on the sensor.

 

All of this points out the fact that while digital imaging is within the reach of many, you MUST learn the basics of the technology so that you can get the most out of your images. Digital imaging is both easier (no chemicals!!! instant viewing!!!) and HARDER (limited dynamic range, different sensitivity to the spectrum of light, more susceptibility to changes in the "color" of light) than traditional photography. However, many things are the same, such as the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, exposure, sharpness and motion.

 

This is just the beginning. I can make your head spin with all the different facets of the technology. Where would you like to start?

Edited June 21, 2007 by agxo3

[agxo3]

More on f-number, f-stops, exposure, and the like........

 

What is the relationship between ISO (formerly called ASA), aperture, shutter speed and exposure?

 

ISOnnn is a film speed rating. A higher nnn number means a higher film speed. It is the same scale that was used by the ASA (an American standards organization); it was adopted by the International Standards Organization (hence ISO) as being more intuaitive than the German scale known as DIN (initials for the German standards organization).

 

Aperture follows the nomenclature f/n where n=f/d. f=focal length, d=diameter of the aperture. Therefore you will see an aperture designates a f/2.8, which means that the focal length of the lens was 2.8 times the diameter of the hole. Smaller numbers therefore mean larger holes which mean more light entering the camera.

 

Shutter speeds are designated 1/sss which is the duration of time the shutter is open. 1/30 means the shutter is open for 1/30th of a second (or approximately .0333333 second). For shutter speeds of 1 second or longer, the shutter speed is simply the time the shutter is open. A shutter speed of 2 means a 2 second exposure time.

 

Notice that shutter speeds in a manual camaera go in what a roughly increments that double at each step. For example, 1/30 to 1/15, or 1/30 to 1/60. f-numbers (apertures) go in increments of 1.4. Forexample, from 2.8 to 4 or 4 to 5.6. Why? Because the area of a circle (and most apertures are approximations of circles!) os A=pi*r^2 (or, pi times r squared) where r is the RADIUS (or half the diameter). to DOUBLE the area of the circle, you must increase the diameter (and therefore the radius) by a factor of the square root of 2, which is, roughly, 1.4.

 

Light accumulation is linear. If you let light in for twice the time, you will double the amount of light accumulated. Or, you can double the area (increase the aperture by a factor of 1.4) and achieve the same effect. The same foes for halving the light accumulation - half the time, or half the area of the aperture.

 

Depth of field and hyperfocal distance -

Depth of field INCREASES as the aperture size decrease (and f-number INCREASES). This is best seen by looking at an old lens in which the distance scale is shown for focusing without looking at the image (yes, we used to do that! AND we got sharper images than many outoffocus - that's NOT a typo! - cameras will produce). On the lens barrel where the focus makr is, you will also see pairs of lines marked with f-numbers, smaller numbers closer to the focus mark , larger numbers farther away. what those show is the range of distances that will be "in focus" on that given lens, at that marked aperture. You will notice that the SMALLER f-numbers (larger apertures) are closer in, therefore the range of distances - the DEPTH OF FIELD - is less than at larger f-numbers (smaller apertures).

 

Hyperfocal distance is the distance at which, for a given focal length and a given aperture, ALL OBJECTS STARTING AT HALF THE DISTANCE BETWEEN CAMERA AND HYPERFOCAL DISTANCE ALL THE WAY OUT TO INFINITY ARE "IN FOCUS". Again, refer to that manual lens. If you place the infinity symbol at any one of the aperture marks, look at the focus mark, then at the other aperture mark. You will see that the distance shown at the other aperture mark is half the distance shown at the focus mark.

 

Why is this helpful? Because knowing this, you cna easily "zone focus" in qhich you can set your lens focus and shoot without having to re-focus. Ever notice how there's a lag between pressing the shutter and the time the camera actually makes the exposure? that's mostly due to the time it takes to focus. that's called "focus lag" and it is worse with point-and-shoot cameras, and better with SLRs, but it is still always thee, and always measurable, and if you are shooting an action scene, it can cause you to miss the moment that is important to you.

 

How do you think the photographers in the olden times (not so olden! maybe 20 years ago?) were able to shoot action scenes WITHOUT all these fancy automated aids (outoffocus, exposure control, etc) that you have now? By knowing things like zone focusing and hyperfocal distance, that's how!

 

That's all for tonight, kids. If this is interesting to you, let me know and I will continue with other topics and get more in depth with technology. If it's not interesting to you, I will leave you to your fumblings.

[storm]

Very informative.

 

Many thanks Agxo. Give us some more please.

[xycho_g]

sumakit ulo ko dun a...haha..but im digesting it bit by bit...

 

nweis napadevelop ko na...and to my dismay...less than 10 shots out of 48 shots lang ang malinaw... i shake a lot. i used Av or aperture priority, kahit na f.56 gamit ko, mabagal ung shutter speed for me to shake and blur the picture.

 

second kng bakit malabo, out of focus. dahil madilim ung room, i thought malinaw... there were nice shots na malinaw..those, ill try to scan and show it sa shutterbugs thread. i posted a pic pla sa thread n un. its a pic before i started getting interested in photography. it is my dog looking at something from a far.

 

do you guys have a tip on how to conquer those shakes?..para hindi lumabo ung pic without using a tripod?. pasmado kasi ako e...

[azeee]

Nice shot What are the settings you used? Digicam or DSLR? The discussion on the PURPLE FRINGE phenomenon is more than I can handle However many factors can contribute to this but most notable is lense quality. Here is one of the many link that touches on the topic which I found a little bit easier to digest . The dreaded PURPLE FRINGE....

 

 

I used Canon S3IS.

 

Shutter: 1/250

Aperture: F/4

Focal Length: 6mm

Metering Mode: Pattern

Exposure Compensation: 0

 

Hhhhmm read from the other forum na medyo may purple fringe talaga ang S3is pero pag direct light.. baka bili me ng lens hood ng cam ko at UV filter..nakakatamad ksi pumunta sa Quiapo.. hehehehe

[fire_breather]

Very informative.

 

Many thanks Agxo. Give us some more please.

 

 

SO true:

 

@ Agxo, Many thanks for the info and clarification.... My head did spin with the information overload but in a good way

Appreciate more info from you so that all may learn. Cheers!

[fire_breather]

sumakit ulo ko dun a...haha..but im digesting it bit by bit...

 

nweis napadevelop ko na...and to my dismay...less than 10 shots out of 48 shots lang ang malinaw... i shake a lot. i used Av or aperture priority, kahit na f.56 gamit ko, mabagal ung shutter speed for me to shake and blur the picture.

 

second kng bakit malabo, out of focus. dahil madilim ung room, i thought malinaw... there were nice shots na malinaw..those, ill try to scan and show it sa shutterbugs thread. i posted a pic pla sa thread n un. its a pic before i started getting interested in photography. it is my dog looking at something from a far.

 

do you guys have a tip on how to conquer those shakes?..para hindi lumabo ung pic without using a tripod?. pasmado kasi ako e...

 

Less Coffee ....hehehe. jok jok Kung walang tripod or Monopod, and you are willing to invest a bit more...Get lenses that have VR (VIbration reduction) feautures. It may not eliminate vibration totaly but will help.

 

 

Others may have more suggestions

[fire_breather]

WRONG!!!!! - that's exactly opposite of what is the "rule of thumb" is. First, it's not a rule of thumb - it's a real physical effect dictated by physics.

 

f-stops are calculated by the following folmula f-number = f / d where f = focal length of the lens, and d = diameter of the aperture. So, as the aperture diameter (and therefore the aperture) gets smaller, the f-number gets larger.

 

A smaller aperture will have a smaller diameter therefore the f-number will be larger for a smaller aperture and smaller for a larger aperture. Depth of field is defined as the range of distances from the center of your lens that an object will appear to be sharp, and in focus. A smaller aperture (larger f-number) INCREASES your depth of field. A larger aperture (SMALLER f-number) DECREASES your depth of field.

 

Why is this important? For two reasons -

 

The first has to do with how the objects in your image look. Do you want EVERYTHING to be sharp (or at least as sharp as can be)? Then use a smaller aperture (LARGER f-number). Or do you want only the object you are focusing onto be sharp and as much of the rest as possible to be less sharp, or even downright blurred? Use a larger aperture (SMALLER f-number).

 

The second has to do with exposure, or, how bright your images appear to be. Smaller apertures (LARGER f-number) let in less light so to achieve the image brightness you want you will have to use a SLOWER shutter speed. Otherwise, your images will be dark, or as some will call it, underexposed. Larger apertures (SMALLER f-number) let in more light, so to achieve the brightness you want, you will need to use a FASTER shutter speed. Otherwise your images will be too bright, or as some will call it, overexposed.

 

Digital technology is much less tolerant of errors in exposure than film is. Most color films will have a dynamic range (the range of light than can be recorded) of somewhere between 11 and 13 "stops". Many b/w films will have up to 15 stops of dynamic range. The typical CCD or CMOS sensor will have from 4-6 stops of linear response, and an additional 4 stops (2 at the high end and 2 at the low end) of compressed (non-linear) response. Therfore is you are using film, you can overexpose and underexpose by (for color film) up to 2 stops 9, and for many b/w films up to 4 stops. That's called film latitude.

 

There is very little latitude in digital imaging. Digital images are prone to blowing out (clipping) the highs (whites) and blocking up the shadows. You can notice this very easily when you look at a digital image and you see large bright areas where the image is pure white or pure black.

 

All is not lost, however - in most digital SLRs you have the option of saving your images in RAW format. This is highly advised. Why? Because if you use a RAW converter to extract your image, then you can first of all, save the image as a 48 bit image (16 bits each for red, green and blue) AND, second, you can usually adjust how you place the center of your dynamic range to extract as much of the "extra" bits of data in the highs and lows that are actually captured on the sensor.

 

All of this points out the fact that while digital imaging is within the reach of many, you MUST learn the basics of the technology so that you can get the most out of your images. Digital imaging is both easier (no chemicals!!! instant viewing!!!) and HARDER (limited dynamic range, different sensitivity to the spectrum of light, more susceptibility to changes in the "color" of light) than traditional photography. However, many things are the same, such as the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, exposure, sharpness and motion.

 

This is just the beginning. I can make your head spin with all the different facets of the technology. Where would you like to start?

 

Poor chioce of words on my part and I really have a long ways to go I was merely reffering to the lens markings f1.8, f2.0, f 2.6....f4.5 etc. Where 1.2 generaly means the lense will have wider opening compared to 4.5.

 

Very good and thorough explanation though... appreciate it!

[arrow]

More on f-number, f-stops, exposure, and the like........

 

....omitted...

 

Very informative agxo3, I urge you to continue.

 

Could you discuss more on ISO and its importance in DSLR contrary to its original purpose (film photography; correct me if I’m wrong)?

This time do it in humane manner. :alien: :hypocritesmiley:

[agxo3]

sumakit ulo ko dun a...haha..but im digesting it bit by bit...

 

nweis napadevelop ko na...and to my dismay...less than 10 shots out of 48 shots lang ang malinaw... i shake a lot. i used Av or aperture priority, kahit na f.56 gamit ko, mabagal ung shutter speed for me to shake and blur the picture.

 

second kng bakit malabo, out of focus. dahil madilim ung room, i thought malinaw... there were nice shots na malinaw..those, ill try to scan and show it sa shutterbugs thread. i posted a pic pla sa thread n un. its a pic before i started getting interested in photography. it is my dog looking at something from a far.

 

do you guys have a tip on how to conquer those shakes?..para hindi lumabo ung pic without using a tripod?. pasmado kasi ako e...

 

First, don't use aperture priority. Use shutter priority and select a slow shutter speed. If the lens won't open up enough, use faster film.

 

Tips on shooting a a slow shutter speed handheld - tuck your elbows tightlu into your body. Take a deep breath, let it out s-l-o-o-o-w-ly. when you get to the bottom of your breath hit the shutter button BEFORE you begin to draw the next breath. Don't try to hold your breath! You'll just shake more. It helps if you can lean against something to help brace you and take the stress out of your legs.

 

 

This is where a FAST lens helps! If you have a lens that goes all the way out to f/1.4 then you'll be able to shoot hand-held with ISO400 film in most situations.

 

Basic rule of thumb - the slowest speed you should try hand-holding at is the reciprocal of the focal length. IOW - if you are using a 50mm lens on a film camera (normal lens for a 35mm camera), then you should hald hold no slower than 1/60 sec. Now, if you're good a hand-holding (and it takes lots of practice!) then you should be able to hand-hold down to about 1/4 sec. I used to be able to hand-hold down to 1 sec., but that was when i was young and not shaky. Now I'm old and shaky and am lucky to handhold at 1/30 sec.

[agxo3]

Very informative agxo3, I urge you to continue.

 

Could you discuss more on ISO and its importance in DSLR contrary to its original purpose (film photography; correct me if I’m wrong)?

This time do it in humane manner. :alien: :hypocritesmiley:

 

Humane? Me? Surely you jest! I'm old and cranky. Sorry, but that's that's me! :evil: Take it or leave it! I'm too old to change. On the late, lamented ph-photo egroup I was known as the "film grump".

 

Anyway - about ISO and digital photography.

 

ISO is merely a measure of sensitivity - how sensitive is your sensor (or film)? In the case of modern DSLRs, you can adjust the APPARENT sensisitivity of your sensor, but not the REAL sensitivity. When you "adjust" the sensitivity of your camera, but changing the ISO, you are only changing the gain of the amplifier that sits between the sensor output (which is an analog signal, or, if you a prefer, a continuously varying voltage) and the input of your camera's A-D (analog to digital) converter.

 

"Increasing" the sensitivity from, say, ISO400 to IS800, for example, doubles the gain of the amplifier so smaller signals appear larger. Since signal voltage is a function of light intensity (or brightness), images in dim light require either more light (wider aperture or slower shutter speed or both), or more amplification.

 

Why is this not always a good thing to do? Because as you amplify the signal, you also amplify the noise that is inherent in ALL sensors. Some sensors (the cheaper, lower quality ones used in lower cost cameras) have more noisy signals than higher quality sensors. But ALL sensors have noise, and as you increase amplification you increase not just signal amplitude (the image data you want to capture) but also the noise of the sensor. So you end up with noisy (or, as some people here have described it, "grainy") images.

 

The most important piece of information ISO setting gives you is the range of shutter speeds that you can really expect to use in a given situation. Again with the "rule of thumb" - the "sunny 16" rule. In the mid-day sun, at an aperture of f/16, your shutter speed should be the reciprocal of your ISO. IOW, on a sunny day, at f/16 and ISO100, your shutter speed should be roughly 1/100 sec.

 

Tip - most DSLRs show noise at ISO setting about ISO200. Except for the Pentax *ist D series of cameras which show no noise to ISO400 and very little at ISO800. Even the high-end Canon and Nikon cameras have pretty noisy images at ISO400 and above. Sp fpr most digicams, p/s or DSLR, stick to ISO200 or less!

[xycho_g]

First, don't use aperture priority. Use shutter priority and select a slow shutter speed. If the lens won't open up enough, use faster film.

 

Tips on shooting a a slow shutter speed handheld - tuck your elbows tightlu into your body. Take a deep breath, let it out s-l-o-o-o-w-ly. when you get to the bottom of your breath hit the shutter button BEFORE you begin to draw the next breath. Don't try to hold your breath! You'll just shake more. It helps if you can lean against something to help brace you and take the stress out of your legs.

This is where a FAST lens helps! If you have a lens that goes all the way out to f/1.4 then you'll be able to shoot hand-held with ISO400 film in most situations.

 

Basic rule of thumb - the slowest speed you should try hand-holding at is the reciprocal of the focal length. IOW - if you are using a 50mm lens on a film camera (normal lens for a 35mm camera), then you should hald hold no slower than 1/60 sec. Now, if you're good a hand-holding (and it takes lots of practice!) then you should be able to hand-hold down to about 1/4 sec. I used to be able to hand-hold down to 1 sec., but that was when i was young and not shaky. Now I'm old and shaky and am lucky to handhold at 1/30 sec.

 

thanks for the nice advice..

[yomar]

arrow:

 

As agxo3 mentioned, ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor. Think of it this way, the higher the ISO setting, the less light is needed to form a picture. So if you're going to shoot indoors, for example, most probably you'll be needing a high ISO setting to produce good pictures. Otherwise, the pics will turn out dark.

 

This is why when buying an ISO 100 film, you'll notice that the box will say that the film you're buying is recommended for shooting outdoors, while ISO 400's are considered indoor/outdoor use.

 

The advantage of shooting with a high ISO setting is that you can produce pictures even if light source is limited. The disadvantage is that pictures become grainy or noisy.

[xycho_g]

ei guys anong ginagamit nyong shutterspeed pag maglandscape kayo? or any advice to get a great landscape shot?..pag umaga, hapon at gabi...

 

ano namang aperture pag magpaning kayo?

 

and when do you use f5.6 / f.8 / f16? medyo nalilito pko when to use these apertures kasi plgi nlng ako 5.6 or 22...

[Petronus]

ei guys anong ginagamit nyong shutterspeed pag maglandscape kayo? or any advice to get a great landscape shot?..pag umaga, hapon at gabi...

 

ano namang aperture pag magpaning kayo?

 

and when do you use f5.6 / f.8 / f16? medyo nalilito pko when to use these apertures kasi plgi nlng ako 5.6 or 22...

 

 

If it's during the day or afternoon, take a meter reading for brightest part of the sky. But don't aim at the sun because you'll probably go blind.

 

You're camera will tell you what shutter speed to use. Regardless of the aperture, set the focus at infinity.( on the lens barrel it looks like a number "8" laying on its side.). For best results, use a tripod and a remote/cable release.

 

With night shots, a tripod will most like be indispensable. Meter for what you want exposed properly.

[yomar]

for landscape photography, i would suggest a very deep DOF. That would mean your aperture opening is small (high f-number). This would make the foreground and background more in focus.

[yomar]

As to your question on when to use which f-number, it actually depends. Do you want a shallow or deep depth of field? Are you shooting in low light conditions? What effect do you want to achieve?

 

Try practicing using Aperture priority on your camera. Shoot the same subjects at different f-numbers. Analyze the results.

[xycho_g]

thanks petronus and yomar for the replies....

[yomar]

anytime, bro!

[arrow]

arrow:

 

As agxo3 mentioned, ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor. Think of it this way, the higher the ISO setting, the less light is needed to form a picture. So if you're going to shoot indoors, for example, most probably you'll be needing a high ISO setting to produce good pictures. Otherwise, the pics will turn out dark.

 

This is why when buying an ISO 100 film, you'll notice that the box will say that the film you're buying is recommended for shooting outdoors, while ISO 400's are considered indoor/outdoor use.

 

The advantage of shooting with a high ISO setting is that you can produce pictures even if light source is limited. The disadvantage is that pictures become grainy or noisy.

 

easily digested...

thx bro... and pardon my ignorance.. <_<

[yomar]

easily digested...

thx bro... and pardon my ignorance..

 

No problem, fellow uragon

[fire_breather]

ei guys anong ginagamit nyong shutterspeed pag maglandscape kayo? or any advice to get a great landscape shot?..pag umaga, hapon at gabi...

 

ano namang aperture pag magpaning kayo?

 

and when do you use f5.6 / f.8 / f16? medyo nalilito pko when to use these apertures kasi plgi nlng ako 5.6 or 22...

 

Bro xycho_g, Gaya sabi ng mga na-una try metering or set camera to aperture mode and the camera sets the appropriate shutterspeed for the subject. Take shots at different apertures, ook at the results and pick what's best. I don't know but perhaps some of our fellow photography lovers here have a known shutterspeed/aperture formula for particular time of day and or subject.

 

BTW. Got some time to k*ll last weekend, so below are samples of the effect of different aperture settings at fixed shutter speed. I'll do a reverse this weekend and fixed my aperture and get different shutterspeed caps. Cheers!

 

Focal: 38mm

ISO: 200

Shutterspeed: 1/250

Time of day: 6:45PM No clouds and Sun almost setting

 

@ F/3.5 (picture looked washed out)

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z215/Krimson07/f3_5.jpg

@ f/5.6 (just right for my taste atleast)

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z215/Krimson07/f5_6.jpg

@ f/8.0 (Dramatic contrast of light and shadows)

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z215/Krimson07/f8_0.jpg

@ f/13 (Shadows took over the frame)

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z215/Krimson07/f13_0.jpg

Edited July 3, 2007 by fire_breather

[yomar]

The pictures above show the effect of aperture size at the same shutterspeed. As the aperture closes (as the f number goes higher), less light is allowed to enter, causing the pictures to become dark.

 

But you'll also see the effect of aperture on the depth of field. At f3.5, the trees in the background are blurred. At f5.6, they have become clearer.

 

fire_breather: ganda ng garden niyo bro

[xycho_g]

as much as i wanted to try shooting with different apertures, slr lng kasi camera ko. ang gastos magshoot ng bracketing. thats why im asking these questions. i hope my questions are not that much hassle...but thanks for those who reply.