taxi508 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I've used gasoline to thin rugby for other applications also. Several years ago, I tried this on styrene, but if I recall correctly, the mixture sort of dissolves the plastic surface. I was trying to foil an airplane at that time and I was not happy with the results. The foil adhesive I'm using is from Microscale (I bought mine during a trip to the US but this can probably be ordered from JMN Hobbies). Apparently, foil glues are of the "pressure activated" type and presumably are different from the ordinary white glues obtainable from National bookstores. Pre, yes you can order from JMN. Marami na akong mga stuff na nakuha sa kanila. Bilib ako sa mga nag-metal finish. These are for those with either very clean and neat in their work processeses or have steady hands and nerves. But when everyuthing is done and has fallen into place, what masterpieces naman. Joy joy joy. :upside: :upside: Quote Link to comment
SGT_ROCK Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 wow...mga pare...i bought two battleships, the bismark and tirpitz from academy only to realize na parehong pareho sila..hehehe stupid me..hehehehe...sister ships sila (at alam ko ito...hehehe)....meron bang makakapag email sa akin ng color scheme nila para maiba naman sila sa isat isa..ty.... Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 (edited) Thanks. He was the one who wrote down the fighter pilot's edict. Dr Pepper Yes, it doesnt melt plastic unlike liquid cement. I used liquid cement for about a decade before I shifted to a combination of superglue and --- believe it or not --- chloroform. Chloroform is much cheaper, and much more liquid than even the finest liquid cement available today. If I need to melt plastic parts together, I use this. And for gaps, and areas where instant bonding is required, I use superglue. Yes, its hard to sand (I use a combination of 400-grit then 800-grit then 1000-grit sandpaper), but its this hardness that stops any shrinkage, giving you a more solid filler. Cholorform probably has the active ingredient that melts styrene plastic so it probably works like Tenax or Ambroweld. That sounds like a good idea sir! Where do you buy yours? Can you get it in small amounts? Thanks! Edited October 6, 2006 by Dr_PepPeR Quote Link to comment
Boelcke Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Taxi, Yep, I also have the jeweler's files in my unruly toolbox, along with a set of X-Acto micro drill set. Buying tools is part of the fun, really. And part of the expense too, unfortunately. Turtle wax is useful only for car finishes. For plane and tank builders you really dont need that amount of shine. Btw, since nobody seems to be posting pics of their works lately, allow me please to break the ice. Heres a pic of a Royal Australian Air Force Hawk I built a couple of years ago. Hope you like it. http://photos.kitmaker.net/data/500/3491Hawk_6.jpg Quote Link to comment
Boelcke Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Cholorform probably has the active ingredient that melts styrene plastic so it probably works like Tenax or Ambroweld. That sounds like a good idea sir! Where do you buy yours? Can you get it in small amounts? Thanks! Doc Chloroform used to be available in Mercury Drug outlets in as small as 250ml bottles. But now they dont carry it. You can still buy it in chemical companies, and -- in the UST area --- at Joli's store in the corner of Espana and Forbes. You can buy it there in 1 liter servings at around P300. A liter will last you about two years if youre a heavy builder. I tranfer smaller amounts in smaller containers and seal the bigger bottle so it wont dry up. I use a cheap painter's pointed brush (available in National Bookstore bargain bins) to apply the chloroform. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Taxi, Yep, I also have the jeweler's files in my unruly toolbox, along with a set of X-Acto micro drill set. Buying tools is part of the fun, really. And part of the expense too, unfortunately. Turtle wax is useful only for car finishes. For plane and tank builders you really dont need that amount of shine. Btw, since nobody seems to be posting pics of their works lately, allow me please to break the ice. Heres a pic of a Royal Australian Air Force Hawk I built a couple of years ago. Hope you like it. http://photos.kitmaker.net/data/500/3491Hawk_6.jpg That's nice! What kit and what scale? Since I don't recall any 1/48th kit I'd say that is in 1/72. Doc Chloroform used to be available in Mercury Drug outlets in as small as 250ml bottles. But now they dont carry it. You can still buy it in chemical companies, and -- in the UST area --- at Joli's store in the corner of Espana and Forbes. You can buy it there in 1 liter servings at around P300. A liter will last you about two years if youre a heavy builder. I tranfer smaller amounts in smaller containers and seal the bigger bottle so it wont dry up. I use a cheap painter's pointed brush (available in National Bookstore bargain bins) to apply the chloroform. Thanks! That really is a good tip! Quote Link to comment
Boelcke Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Doc, Yes, its in 1/72. This is the Italeri kit with Aussie aftermarket decals. Quote Link to comment
blue_blooded Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Ah, the Dicta. Read somewhere na it was still used by Luftwaffe sa WWII. The Dicta is the foundation of all modern air to air combat tactics. Still being used by the world's top flight fighter schools. Sorry OT. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Doc, Yes, its in 1/72. This is the Italeri kit with Aussie aftermarket decals. Very clean work, especially with the painting of the wheels and the canopy frames. I can't see if you painted the detonation cord on the top clear part of the canopy. I assume it is the molding of the detonation cord that causes the distortion I see on the picture? Anyway, it could have passed for a 1/48 kit, very nice build! The Dicta is the foundation of all modern air to air combat tactics. Still being used by the world's top flight fighter schools. Sorry OT. No it's not OT, this is still modeling related, as in history of the subjects. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment
Boelcke Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Doc, Thanks! Yes, I painted the detonation cord. Quite tedious, but nothing a pointed brush wont fix. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Doc, Thanks! Yes, I painted the detonation cord. Quite tedious, but nothing a pointed brush wont fix. Damn! I wish I had hands that steady! You're probably an eye surgeon, aren't you? Quote Link to comment
Yu-gi-oh Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Hey Doc are you attending the party............. Quote Link to comment
paeng Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 I used to do this when I was a kid. I always wanted to go back to it but could never find the time. I've been reading about wooden sailing ships, though. Quote Link to comment
Yu-gi-oh Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 hi guys....enjoy the week end........... Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted October 8, 2006 Share Posted October 8, 2006 Hey Doc are you attending the party............. I think I'm invited somehow since they put something in my sig. See you there Master! Quote Link to comment
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