Who Is Into Scale Modelling?

[pogipogi0]

ayus ba gumamit ng tamiya airbrush set? since kasama na compressor ng tamiya advisable ba na bili nalang ng airbrush lang? at end of the day 2 pa brush mo.. tama ba? or is it my stupid idea hehehe

[Boelcke]

Thanks... I already tried using the tamiya cement in the pic shown... but the problem is... its really too thin... meaning the 'parting line' still shows after I applied a generous amount already... :thumbsdownsmiley:

 

Have you guys tried superglue (Mighty Bond, for example)? Parting lines or seams sometimes wont go away regardless of how much glue or putty you put into the gap because of shrinkage. Most putties Ive tried (with the exception of Milliput) suffer from some shrinkage as time goes by, and the seams begin to reappear.

 

For hairline gaps and seams superglue might just be what you need. It dries really hard and has almost no shrinkage. Just glue the parts together, then apply sparingly (just enough to cover the gap). Let dry, then sand smooth.

 

[Dr_PepPeR]

ayus ba gumamit ng tamiya airbrush set? since kasama na compressor ng tamiya advisable ba na bili nalang ng airbrush lang? at end of the day 2 pa brush mo.. tama ba? or is it my stupid idea hehehe

 

You might have problems using the small compressor with another airbrush. The connections on the Tamiya airbrush set to the small Tamiya hose are proprietary, meaning it only fits Tamiya airbrushes. To connect another airbrush to it, you will have to find an adapter, either for the hose connection to the airbrush, or the hose connection to the compressor. On the other hand, the Tamiya Airbrush Set is not bad. I've been using it for several years and it is more the adequate for most of my modeling needs. It is only lately that I have had the urge to do micron size airbrush lines.

 

Have you guys tried superglue (Mighty Bond, for example)? Parting lines or seams sometimes wont go away regardless of how much glue or putty you put into the gap because of shrinkage. Most putties Ive tried (with the exception of Milliput) suffer from some shrinkage as time goes by, and the seams begin to reappear.

 

For hairline gaps and seams superglue might just be what you need. It dries really hard and has almost no shrinkage. Just glue the parts together, then apply sparingly (just enough to cover the gap). Let dry, then sand smooth.

 

 

Having many options of glues is always fine. I have also tried lacquer thinner and elmer's glue as cements. Try it sometime. The problem with superglue is that unlike plastic cement (or even lacquer thinner), it does not melt the plastic to form a bond. It therefore has weak adhesive strength when the force is applied at the side (like twisting it). And another problem is that when it dries, it dries harder than the styrene plastic so sanding it down can be a bitch. And you cannot use it for clear parts. The fumes from superglue will fog it unless the clear parts are dipped in Future/Wipe and Shine.

[taxi508]

Have you guys tried superglue (Mighty Bond, for example)? Parting lines or seams sometimes wont go away regardless of how much glue or putty you put into the gap because of shrinkage. Most putties Ive tried (with the exception of Milliput) suffer from some shrinkage as time goes by, and the seams begin to reappear.

 

For hairline gaps and seams superglue might just be what you need. It dries really hard and has almost no shrinkage. Just glue the parts together, then apply sparingly (just enough to cover the gap). Let dry, then sand smooth.

 

 

 

Putty does shrink. Medyo madugo lang ang process na ito, but what I do is apply putty until almost finished na. Then I use Mr. Surfacer (Gunze) until It would seem na sobra na. After sufficient drying time, sand to be sure na the line is completely filled up. Then I use different grits of abrasive to smoothen the whole surface. Using 'Dymo" tape, I re-scribe (BMF Scriber?)any panel line that may have been lost or affected.

 

Mabusisi pero tiyaga lang pre. Since I make models for my personal satisfaction and sanity, I have been very satisfied lately sa ganitong process. I converted an Academy 1/72 SR-71 and namputsa, you can't find the jointlines, nor my re-scribed panel lines.

 

Like your handle. He was one of Herr Rittmeister's idols. Mga ka-level nila Immelmann. Wish I could join their Staffel.

[taxi508]

Putty does shrink. Medyo madugo lang ang process na ito, but what I do is apply putty until almost finished na. Then I use Mr. Surfacer (Gunze) until It would seem na sobra na. After sufficient drying time, sand to be sure na the line is completely filled up. Then I use different grits of abrasive to smoothen the whole surface. Using 'Dymo" tape, I re-scribe (BMF Scriber?)any panel line that may have been lost or affected.

 

Mabusisi pero tiyaga lang pre. Since I make models for my personal satisfaction and sanity, I have been very satisfied lately sa ganitong process. I converted an Academy 1/72 SR-71 and namputsa, you can't find the jointlines, nor my re-scribed panel lines.

 

Like your handle. He was one of Herr Rittmeister's idols. Mga ka-level nila Immelmann. Wish I could join their Staffel.

 

 

By the way, I read somewhere na a mixture of talcum powder and ???? makes an easy to sand putty type. Now if I can just remember if it was Future or super glue.

 

By the way, plastic cement welds the parts by partly melting the plastics and then welding them together. Superglue, which is harder than polystyrene plastic when dry, doesn't melt the plastics that you are attaching. Trivia = The reason that it does a great job in sticking skin together, particularly sa mata, is because it was initially an experiment to help in sutureless surgey para wala nang tahian. Read this somewhere

[taxi508]

This may be out of topic but I was just wondering, if mayroon na kayong Advanced Modeller's Syndrome-Toolside. I don't just keep buying kits. Tools paints, even things na baka magagamit sa modelling. I have this small toolbox of sharps, another of abrasives, a sealed cannister for adhesives, not to mention paints-according to type. I have even a "Third Hand" from Radio Shack. Malapit na yata ang terminal stage ko.

[Yu-gi-oh]

You're right about the West Wing of the second floor if you mean the side closest to the Bangko Sentral. The store's name is NM Hobbies and the proprietor is Natalie, Roel's wife (Roel manages Hobbies and Comics in Makati Cinema Square). I would think Winston's Special Toy Store would have this since he normally stocks a lot of Gunze products.

Sometimes the visible join line is due to the mismatch of the parts of the plastic. The best way to apply Tamiya Extra Thin cement is to first dry fit the pieces together to make sure the parts fit well. Sometimes a very light sanding of the surfaces to be joined will help the cement adhere to the plastic. Once you have a good fit, attach the parts together with a rubber band or a clip and then apply the extra thin cement with the excellent applicator brush on the join line. You can use the hobby knife to pry open a small opening and let the cement run by capillary action all along the line. Even with a good join, it is still necessary to sand the joint and if necessary, to use putty to hide it. Dealing with seam lines, especially in aircraft fuseleges is a fact of life in scale modeling. No matter how perfect the fit, it will always appear so the mark of an expert is making sure the seam lines do not appear in the model where seam lines are not present on the real thing. Eventually you will develop your own technique but mine is to use extra thin cement, sand, putty, sand, putty....

I think Alclad II is excellent. I've seen kits done in Alclad and the finish is very good. I've thought of using rugby and my chemist friend says you can thin it with dry cleaning fluid. I haven't tried this yet though.

Ano meron dun Master? May hobby shops din?

 

 

Special Toy Center

[Bockscar]

By the way, I read somewhere na a mixture of talcum powder and ???? makes an easy to sand putty type. Now if I can just remember if it was Future or super glue.

 

By the way, plastic cement welds the parts by partly melting the plastics and then welding them together. Superglue, which is harder than polystyrene plastic when dry, doesn't melt the plastics that you are attaching. Trivia = The reason that it does a great job in sticking skin together, particularly sa mata, is because it was initially an experiment to help in sutureless surgey para wala nang tahian. Read this somewhere

 

Hello taxi,

 

I tried mixing talcum powder with superglue. It seems to be more amenable to sanding versus just using pure superglue. However, I have had better results when I use an accelerator on the superglue immediately after applying it. It seems that superglue hardens to a much harder material (compared to styrene) after an hour and delaying sanding beyond this causes problems (one is prone to sand more the surrounding plastic area rather than the superglue portion). By using an accelerator, the superglue hardens just enough (almost the same "density" as styrene) such that sanding is easier. I did this on my bare-metal B-52D from Monogram to model a 1950's nuclear bomber.

[Bockscar]

This may be out of topic but I was just wondering, if mayroon na kayong Advanced Modeller's Syndrome-Toolside. I don't just keep buying kits. Tools paints, even things na baka magagamit sa modelling. I have this small toolbox of sharps, another of abrasives, a sealed cannister for adhesives, not to mention paints-according to type. I have even a "Third Hand" from Radio Shack. Malapit na yata ang terminal stage ko.

 

Advance Modeller Syndrome (AMS)..... ah yes, I'm probably afflicted with this! Part of the fun for me, and I'm sure many modellers have AMS in varying "stages".

[Bockscar]

Buy 5 more kits so you can average the cost down some more.

 

Sorry.

 

Hi doc!

 

Yezzz.... just bought another one from Lils (threw in also a 1:48 Hasegawa F-86) immediately after "Milenyo" died down that Thursday. Four more to go!

[Bockscar]

Personally, sanay ako sa medyo maruming finish, as in tanks and other armour kits or airplanes but not metal finish. the few that I've made, I just spray on a metallic paint then buff it or use a very fine abrasive so I've really never had a real metal finish. I just tried Alclad II on one, but this is basically spray on, lang. I've bought bmf sa hp before and haven't seen Micro Mark's Foil Adhesive. Can you thin rugby?

 

I've used gasoline to thin rugby for other applications also. Several years ago, I tried this on styrene, but if I recall correctly, the mixture sort of dissolves the plastic surface. I was trying to foil an airplane at that time and I was not happy with the results.

 

The foil adhesive I'm using is from Microscale (I bought mine during a trip to the US but this can probably be ordered from JMN Hobbies). Apparently, foil glues are of the "pressure activated" type and presumably are different from the ordinary white glues obtainable from National bookstores.

[Bockscar]

Thanks... I already tried using the tamiya cement in the pic shown... but the problem is... its really too thin... meaning the 'parting line' still shows after I applied a generous amount already... :thumbsdownsmiley:

 

Practice is the key to make those seam lines disappear. My personal technique is to use a combination of ultra thin cement (yes, the Tamiya brand), superglue and putty. You might find this illogical, but I've tried "bevelling" the edges of of an aircraft model's two halves. Just a slight sanding needed, not too much. After using thin cement to join the two halves together, I apply thin superglue. Theoretically, the superglue runs through the "canal" caused by bevelling and minimizes instances where it accidentally spills onto the surrounding surface (ruins detail and needs sanding). Even after sanding the joint line, I apply a few strokes of liquid putty.... then sand again.

 

I did buy that Gunze thin cement from STC but if I recall correctly, the Tamiya brand has a better brush applicator for those pesky seamline operations. But this is a matter of personal choice for the modeller and depends on his experience.

[Dr_PepPeR]

This may be out of topic but I was just wondering, if mayroon na kayong Advanced Modeller's Syndrome-Toolside. I don't just keep buying kits. Tools paints, even things na baka magagamit sa modelling. I have this small toolbox of sharps, another of abrasives, a sealed cannister for adhesives, not to mention paints-according to type. I have even a "Third Hand" from Radio Shack. Malapit na yata ang terminal stage ko.

 

I have AMS - Everything, from kits to resin aftermarket, decals, paint, tools, adhesives, books, you name it. My wife says I am better stocked than Lil's. Sometimes I believe her.

 

Hello taxi,

 

I tried mixing talcum powder with superglue. It seems to be more amenable to sanding versus just using pure superglue. However, I have had better results when I use an accelerator on the superglue immediately after applying it. It seems that superglue hardens to a much harder material (compared to styrene) after an hour and delaying sanding beyond this causes problems (one is prone to sand more the surrounding plastic area rather than the superglue portion). By using an accelerator, the superglue hardens just enough (almost the same "density" as styrene) such that sanding is easier. I did this on my bare-metal B-52D from Monogram to model a 1950's nuclear bomber.

 

Yes I think that's the way to go. The talcum powder makes the superglue more like a filler and acts almost like an accelerator so you can sand immediately before it dries harder than the styrene. I'd like to see that bare metal B-52 sometime.

 

Hi doc!

 

Yezzz.... just bought another one from Lils (threw in also a 1:48 Hasegawa F-86) immediately after "Milenyo" died down that Thursday. Four more to go!

 

Lil's has a lot of cool Hasegawa kits on stock right now. My wallet just can't afford it.

 

I've used gasoline to thin rugby for other applications also. Several years ago, I tried this on styrene, but if I recall correctly, the mixture sort of dissolves the plastic surface. I was trying to foil an airplane at that time and I was not happy with the results.

 

The foil adhesive I'm using is from Microscale (I bought mine during a trip to the US but this can probably be ordered from JMN Hobbies). Apparently, foil glues are of the "pressure activated" type and presumably are different from the ordinary white glues obtainable from National bookstores.

 

My chemist friend suggested thinning contact cement with drycleaning fluid. Haven't tried that yet though. Yes, gasoline, like lacquer thinner is 'hot' on plastic.

[Boelcke]

Like your handle. He was one of Herr Rittmeister's idols. Mga ka-level nila Immelmann. Wish I could join their Staffel.

 

Thanks. He was the one who wrote down the fighter pilot's edict.

 

 

 

Dr Pepper

 

Yes, it doesnt melt plastic unlike liquid cement. I used liquid cement for about a decade before I shifted to a combination of superglue and --- believe it or not --- chloroform.

 

Chloroform is much cheaper, and much more liquid than even the finest liquid cement available today. If I need to melt plastic parts together, I use this. And for gaps, and areas where instant bonding is required, I use superglue.

 

Yes, its hard to sand (I use a combination of 400-grit then 800-grit then 1000-grit sandpaper), but its this hardness that stops any shrinkage, giving you a more solid filler.

[taxi508]

Thanks. He was the one who wrote down the fighter pilot's edict.

Dr Pepper

 

Yes, it doesnt melt plastic unlike liquid cement. I used liquid cement for about a decade before I shifted to a combination of superglue and --- believe it or not --- chloroform.

 

Chloroform is much cheaper, and much more liquid than even the finest liquid cement available today. If I need to melt plastic parts together, I use this. And for gaps, and areas where instant bonding is required, I use superglue.

 

Yes, its hard to sand (I use a combination of 400-grit then 800-grit then 1000-grit sandpaper), but its this hardness that stops any shrinkage, giving you a more solid filler.

 

Ah, the Dicta. Read somewhere na it was still used by Luftwaffe sa WWII.

 

Hmmm, sanding, one of my newer obsessions. You can find up to 2000-grit sa mga hardware stores. JMN has Microscale abrasives up to 20,000 or Microscale na Rubbing Compound. I have one thick manila envelope of various grit sandpaper and a small toolbox of jeweler's files, etc. Get your files sa Han's Tools ng Shangri-La got a set of 12 about P110 lang, although maganda rin ang Tamiya na file set. Dammit, I even have RM's automotive rubbing compound. Has anyone tried turtle wax fininshing compound? Got one sa supermarket pero I haven't had the time to try it.

 

Herr Ace, Doc, and all you ASM disease carriers, I just wanted all of you to know that you, your info and insights are most appreciated by this person. All of it keep me sane but envious.

[taxi508]

I've used gasoline to thin rugby for other applications also. Several years ago, I tried this on styrene, but if I recall correctly, the mixture sort of dissolves the plastic surface. I was trying to foil an airplane at that time and I was not happy with the results.

 

The foil adhesive I'm using is from Microscale (I bought mine during a trip to the US but this can probably be ordered from JMN Hobbies). Apparently, foil glues are of the "pressure activated" type and presumably are different from the ordinary white glues obtainable from National bookstores.

 

 

Pre, yes you can order from JMN. Marami na akong mga stuff na nakuha sa kanila. Bilib ako sa mga nag-metal finish. These are for those with either very clean and neat in their work processeses or have steady hands and nerves. But when everyuthing is done and has fallen into place, what masterpieces naman. Joy joy joy. :upside: :upside:

[SGT_ROCK]

wow...mga pare...i bought two battleships, the bismark and tirpitz from academy only to realize na parehong pareho sila..hehehe stupid me..hehehehe...sister ships sila (at alam ko ito...hehehe)....meron bang makakapag email sa akin ng color scheme nila para maiba naman sila sa isat isa..ty....

[Dr_PepPeR]

Thanks. He was the one who wrote down the fighter pilot's edict.

Dr Pepper

 

Yes, it doesnt melt plastic unlike liquid cement. I used liquid cement for about a decade before I shifted to a combination of superglue and --- believe it or not --- chloroform.

 

Chloroform is much cheaper, and much more liquid than even the finest liquid cement available today. If I need to melt plastic parts together, I use this. And for gaps, and areas where instant bonding is required, I use superglue.

 

Yes, its hard to sand (I use a combination of 400-grit then 800-grit then 1000-grit sandpaper), but its this hardness that stops any shrinkage, giving you a more solid filler.

 

Cholorform probably has the active ingredient that melts styrene plastic so it probably works like Tenax or Ambroweld. That sounds like a good idea sir! Where do you buy yours? Can you get it in small amounts? Thanks!

Edited October 6, 2006 by Dr_PepPeR

[Boelcke]

Taxi,

 

Yep, I also have the jeweler's files in my unruly toolbox, along with a set of X-Acto micro drill set. Buying tools is part of the fun, really. And part of the expense too, unfortunately.

 

Turtle wax is useful only for car finishes. For plane and tank builders you really dont need that amount of shine.

 

Btw, since nobody seems to be posting pics of their works lately, allow me please to break the ice. Heres a pic of a Royal Australian Air Force Hawk I built a couple of years ago. Hope you like it.

 

http://photos.kitmaker.net/data/500/3491Hawk_6.jpg

[Boelcke]

Cholorform probably has the active ingredient that melts styrene plastic so it probably works like Tenax or Ambroweld. That sounds like a good idea sir! Where do you buy yours? Can you get it in small amounts? Thanks!

 

Doc

 

Chloroform used to be available in Mercury Drug outlets in as small as 250ml bottles. But now they dont carry it. You can still buy it in chemical companies, and -- in the UST area --- at Joli's store in the corner of Espana and Forbes. You can buy it there in 1 liter servings at around P300. A liter will last you about two years if youre a heavy builder. I tranfer smaller amounts in smaller containers and seal the bigger bottle so it wont dry up. I use a cheap painter's pointed brush (available in National Bookstore bargain bins) to apply the chloroform.

 

[Dr_PepPeR]

Taxi,

 

Yep, I also have the jeweler's files in my unruly toolbox, along with a set of X-Acto micro drill set. Buying tools is part of the fun, really. And part of the expense too, unfortunately.

 

Turtle wax is useful only for car finishes. For plane and tank builders you really dont need that amount of shine.

 

Btw, since nobody seems to be posting pics of their works lately, allow me please to break the ice. Heres a pic of a Royal Australian Air Force Hawk I built a couple of years ago. Hope you like it.

 

http://photos.kitmaker.net/data/500/3491Hawk_6.jpg

 

That's nice! What kit and what scale? Since I don't recall any 1/48th kit I'd say that is in 1/72.

 

Doc

 

Chloroform used to be available in Mercury Drug outlets in as small as 250ml bottles. But now they dont carry it. You can still buy it in chemical companies, and -- in the UST area --- at Joli's store in the corner of Espana and Forbes. You can buy it there in 1 liter servings at around P300. A liter will last you about two years if youre a heavy builder. I tranfer smaller amounts in smaller containers and seal the bigger bottle so it wont dry up. I use a cheap painter's pointed brush (available in National Bookstore bargain bins) to apply the chloroform.

 

 

Thanks! That really is a good tip!

[Boelcke]

Doc,

 

Yes, its in 1/72. This is the Italeri kit with Aussie aftermarket decals.

[blue_blooded]

Ah, the Dicta. Read somewhere na it was still used by Luftwaffe sa WWII.

 

The Dicta is the foundation of all modern air to air combat tactics. Still being used by the world's top flight fighter schools.

 

Sorry OT.

[Dr_PepPeR]

Doc,

 

Yes, its in 1/72. This is the Italeri kit with Aussie aftermarket decals.

 

Very clean work, especially with the painting of the wheels and the canopy frames. I can't see if you painted the detonation cord on the top clear part of the canopy. I assume it is the molding of the detonation cord that causes the distortion I see on the picture? Anyway, it could have passed for a 1/48 kit, very nice build!

 

The Dicta is the foundation of all modern air to air combat tactics. Still being used by the world's top flight fighter schools.

 

Sorry OT.

 

No it's not OT, this is still modeling related, as in history of the subjects. Thanks for sharing.

[Boelcke]

Doc,

 

Thanks! Yes, I painted the detonation cord. Quite tedious, but nothing a pointed brush wont fix.