jimithing Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 any feedback on Mag 1 full synthetic European car formula 5w-40? its a lot cheaper than other full syn brands Quote Link to comment
jeramy Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 honda 10w30 for my honda jazz. Quote Link to comment
hit05 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic and it is really a great lubricant and dirt detergent. It is rated to keep its lubricating action far longer under worse conditions than the best non-synthetic. But the engine might get damaged because of smug or dirt that the oil is able to remove. If you have just shifted to synthetic, it will most likely remove even the toughest left over dirt inside the engine making the oil thick and color cloudy. The trick is to change oil filers when the oil becomes dirty or use a larger one if you got a choice. After using it longer, you would notice that it will not change color as quickly, maybe since your engine is cleaner. Quote Link to comment
Seyer95 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Any brand for me is ok so long as: 5W-30 during winter (this is a thin motor oil) 10W-40 during summer Quote Link to comment
eside1 Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Castrol Turbo for my diesel engine Quote Link to comment
FF Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Shell Rimula (R4) 15W40 for BOTH my gasoline and diesel engines. The gas station mechanics grumble about apocalyptic engine damage as I order them to pour in the Rimula diesel engine oil for my mutivalve gasoline engine. But said Rimula oil is rated CH-4/SL, which well exceeds the rating needs of the gas engine even though it's 30% cheaper. And I am an engineer, immune to marketing and auto suggestion crap that the engine runs smoother with this or that more pricey stuff Baloney - if the oil meets the API engine ratings, and is from a reputable company, use it. LC well said sir. as a former shell guy you are right on the API rating. many oils in the market have both S ( for spark or gasoline ) and C ( for compression or diesel ) A{I ratings. what do these letters mean ? an SB rated oil is better than and SA oil and a CB oil is better than a CA oil. right now we're pretty much advanced as we are now in CH / SL territories as oil companies like shell continue to develop higher quality engine oils to meet the standards of engine manufacturers. but just a bit of clarification ... rimula was developed primarily as a diesel engine oil which can also be used for SL rated gas engines.helix ( the gas version) is primarily a gasoline engine oil which can also be used for diesel engines.The diff is that lies diesel engine oils have more detergents ( you read that right) that clean your engines as diesel is a "dirtier"fuel and produces more engine deposits than gasoline. with that said ... will using rimula in a gas engine be harmful ? no . will it be better to use a gas engine oil like helix in a gas engine car ? yes. just my two cents. 1 Quote Link to comment
FF Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 how to save money when changing oil: 1) know the engine oil API grade specified to your engine. If its says CH then compare the price of all API CH rated oils you can choose from. then choose the lowest.2) Buying a higher rated oil than the one specified to your engine is a waste of money. 3) synthetic oils are better than regular mineral oils because they resist molecular "breakdown" and protect longer than mineral based oils. this said ... you may opt to extend the change oil interval at least twice ( from 5k to 10 k).if you use synthetic oil and still change every 5 k ... its a waste of money. when i was with shell ...i put in synthetic oil into my car. prior to changing oil ... i had a small oil sample drawn from my engine regularly ( adding in an equal amt into the engine of course to maintain the reco oil levels ). I had the oil samples tested in the shell labs to see if the oil still "worked". to make the long story short ... the single synthetic oil change lasted me for 20,000 km before the lab advised me to have it replaced. 4) DO NOT USE ADDITIVES. engine oils are alredy formulated to provide the optimum engine protection. additives change the oil's formulation ... which may actually lead to LESS protection for your engine. hope this helps :-) 1 Quote Link to comment
chiliman Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I've been using KENDALL 10W-30 for about 2 years now. This was recommended by the guy helping me maintain my car. So far, I'm pretty satisfied with it. Although it's relatively unknown, but it's just a bit cheaper than the more popular brands. My problem now is the place where I used to get this has stopped ordering/stocking up on this. I'm down to my last 4 bottles (1 liter), which is just enough for 1 oil change. I am hoping that someone here knows another supplier of KENDALL motor oils. Quote Link to comment
trekkerman Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Delo 400. 'Nuff said 😎 Quote Link to comment
takumi88 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 maganda b s gasoline engine ang mga oil ng motul? Quote Link to comment
Brownman Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Mobil 1 for my dailies, dealer does my MB diesel. Quote Link to comment
GenMcBob Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Mobile1 fully synthetic oil Mobile 1 fully synthetic oil Quote Link to comment
super123 Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Repsol fully synthetic Quote Link to comment
stormshadow34 Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 shell full synthetic. i strongly suggest canvassing stations first. i found out too late that not all shell stations have standard pricing. i have seen some that are more expensive by as much as 400 for the oil change package. Quote Link to comment
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