The Art of Bonsai

[Justeen]

I wanna learn...

[milly88]

Namatay huli kong bonsai. Easy mode pang dapat pero namatay dahil sa init last summer.

[Jcua]

Any basics on starting the hobby?

[Bradwad]

Up. tips and basic growing procedure (materials) are highly appreciated.

[nick_cage]

yeah... any books you can share that will teach the basics of Bonzai... thanks masters...

[Cira]

Saan maganda bumili ng bonsai na di mahal?

[JosephBaf]

well i caznt believe what ive just read on the bonsai4me site... theres an article on there about using cat litter for bonsai soil ????

thanks nebraska im gonna have to give it a go an see what happens

[diego669]

Any update about bonsai making? Is there a training center for this in the philippines?

[rrr_nnn]

Up

[PotBelly]

Here are some tips from a bonsai master Mr. Nolan Sison

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs): l

 

CHAPTER 1: GETTING STARTED

 

1. Q: I have zero knowledge in bonsai. How do i know if this is the right hobby for me?

A: Do not BUY anything yet. Do not fall into the trap of spending so much, and after a while, you will end up not really wanting to go into the BONSAI CULTURE. Bonsai culture is not just a hobby , it is A WAY OF LIFE. The first thing that you should do is to READ about Bonsai, either through the books and better, on the internet. Join the FB groups and read on some of the their posts. Attend various exhibits, workshops, visit the gardens of members of local bonsai groups. I'm very sure they are more than willing to show their collections, share their knowledge, and even give you some materials and cuttings for you to start with. Once you have the hang of it , and you really like to advance forward, then that,s the time you start to invest in your materials. WARNING: do not be so TRIGGER-HAPPY about buying your first materials. You have to be VERY choosy. As a matter of fact, really very very choosy. Since you are new, there are so many commercial bonsai sellers that may take advantage of your lack of knowledge and eagerness to have your first bonsai trees. They might present to you an ugly bonsai, passing it off as a superb, expensive, show-ready piece. (credits to doc scalpel).

 

2. Q: I'm now decided to go into the hobby. How will i start?

A: there are many ways to start the hobby. a.) buy overgrown softwood or hardwood plants/trees in landscape garden nurseries. Choose those with curved trunks and small leaves. b.) explore your backyard and try to uproot young trees and bushes and put them in pots. c.) buy a complete bonsai, study the branches and style, and make one yourself from a. & b. options. d.) visit a friend who is into bonsai and you will surely get free lectures and materials. e) study posts at bonsai FB groups (like BIP) and don't expect to get all the members' attention at once to teach you how. Be patient. Be industrious. Scroll down and read past posts, comments and replies. You will learn a lot from there.

 

3. Q: What pots should I use? I am just starting this hobby.

A: Any pots with good drainage (hole at the bottom) will do. Training pots can be: plastic bag planters, ice cream canisters, old plastic pails and basins, regular terra-cota pots for plants, plastic jars, softdrinks and mineral water bottles (cut in half), and of course... bonsai pots.

 

4. Q: What soil or medium should i use and why?

A: River sand. The coarse type. Coarse sand leaves air packets. It is important to have air packets inside the pot for robust root production, because developing roots thrive on nitrates which is formed from the air's nitrogen and the soil's carbon and nitrites. Coarse sand has also good drainage and prevents water clogging in your pot. Water clogging causes root rots. River sand also carries nutrients and minerals essential for plant growth.

 

5. Q: I have a new bonsai material. Where should i cut?

A: (THESE ARE NOT ABSOLUTE RULES. THESE ARE JUST MERE SUGGESTIONS) The ideal tree height depends on your plan if the gtree will be presented as near-view, medium view or far view. This will also depend on whether you would like to show your tree as aged, or tall. The median formula is: "width of trunk x 5 or 6. Example: if the width of your trunk is 2-inches, then multiply this by 5 or 6 and your ideal height is 10-12 inches from the trunk-root junction.

 

Wide trunk and aged: make the trunk-to-height ratio 1:2 or 1:3... your tree will look old and its trunk is sumo (wide).

 

Tall tree: make the trunk-to-height ratio 1:8-12. This way, you will have a tall, lanky tree as viewed from afar.

 

EXEMPTION: literati, cascade, semi cascade. (for advanced bonsai hobbyists, they don't cut. This is in preparation for jin or deadwood in their future styling workshop).

 

For branches (of bonsai materials only): width of trunk x 2 or 3". This is to leave allowance for rotting, and future branch growth. Your objective is always to have the 1-2-3 branches. 1 = left or right; 2 = back branch; 3 = left or right (if #1 is left, #3 is right and vice versa). Why # 2 is back? Because if #1 is right and #2 is left, they will thicken over time and will create unsightly cross branch, bubble joints (reversed taper) which is a future styling problem. The #1 branch should always be the thickest branch.

 

6. Q: What ideal trees should i start with as a beginner?

A: "Die-hard" trees are for beginners: These are: ficus species (balete), murraya (kamuning), serrisa, bougainvilla (bogambilya), Ixora (santan), Streblus (kalyos), Philippine forest tea (Tsaang Gubat), Fukien tea, Mulawin, and others. look around your area, and develop interests in those trees with small leaves.

 

7. Q: For newly hunted or acquired bonsai materials with very few roots, or cuttings i made from backyard trees, how do i plant these?

A: For newly hunted materials with almost no roots, cut excess branches immediately (refer to item #4). Put elmer's glue or any type of glue at the cut ends. This is to prevent evaporation of the tree's life-sustaining "juice". Defoliate or remove all leaves immediately. This is to prevent any leaves from consuming the tree's "juice". Plant it in any training pot (refer to #2) using river sand medium (refer to #3). Water the newly planted tree thoroughly. Then place the whole pot w/ tree, inside a plastic bag. Tightly tie the mouth of the bag so the whole plastic is an air-tight bubble. Put it in the shade. Now, you have a mini-greenhouse for that delicate tree. The moisture inside is trapped and just goes round-and-round the plastic bag in the form of gas (water vapor if weather is hot, daytime) and liquid (condensation during nighttime). No need to water your tree for weeks. Check on them from time to time if molds are starting to appear. Remove the molds ASAP. This is what we call the ICU (intensive care unit), being frequently referred in many BIP posts. NO FERTILIZERS PLEASE.

I just removed my ficus benjamina beside my pond. 10 ft tall so ang daming cuttings. I ran out of big plastic bags so half of the cuttings are in ICU and half are in a shaded area. All those in icu survived and growing very strong. 80% of those in the garage died. Thefore, ICU is a mini greenhouse with the right moisture circulating inside the bag. ICU increases the chance of survival of our bonsai materials. If u pass by commercial vegetable plantations, you will see domed clear or white plastics. Thats ICU. In the US and europe, you'll see a lot of greenhouses, thats a blown-up ICU. Bonsai hobbyists all over the world are doing icu. Do this to increase the chance of your bonsai materials and cuttings to survive.

 

8. Q: When should i remove my trees from the ICU?

A: if new shoots are more than 1-2 inches and new leaves are sprouting everywhere, remove the tree from the plastic bag and put it in a 100% shaded area. You can include these new trees in your watering regimen. After about a week in the shades, transfer them to a partially shaded area (30% sun). One more week and they'll go to the half-shaded area (50% sunlight), and another week and they're ready for full sunlit area. NO FERTILIZERS PLEASE.

 

9. Q: After the ICU process and the tree is now growing steadily under the full sunlight, what is next?

A: Patience. Wait for 6 months.

 

10. Q: I've waited for 6 months and all my trees are growing wild. What should I do?

A: Now, you are ready to cut-back, wire and style. This includes: choosing the trees' front side, the most logical style, which branches should be retained and cut-off.

Best practice: Google image all nice bonsais. Friend-request those who are in the hobby, even foreigners (taiwanese, chinese, japanese, indonesians,) so that you have new bonsai postings in your FB everyday. You will then see some bonsais that are somewhat similar to your tree trunks. Now you're getting some ideas on how to style your trees. We can teach you how to do it step-by-step but we can not teach you aesthetics. The art is inside your mind. Your concept of beautiful and ugly is unique in you. Train your eyes in aesthetics by viewing bonsais in the internet, books and nearby gardens.

 

11. Q: How do i cut-back?

A: The basic shape of trees, as in nature, is triangle. Isoceles triangle, acute triangle, distorted triangle, concave triangle... any type of triangles as long as it is wide at the bottom and tapered on top... a triangle! After choosing your branches (avoid branches growing from a single point from trunk. They will compete for the tree's "juices". Cut-off all but one.) Branch #1 should be the longest. #2 shorter than #1; #3 shorter than #2 and so on...

Our bonsai trees are grown in pots with limited medium and rooting surface area. Therefore, the growth of our trees have their limits. If you let your branches grow uncontrolled, the tree will reach its growing limit and branches will die back. Its like a single mother earning from a sari-sari store to feed her 2 kids. The kids are ok. But if the kids are 10, all are malnourished bec the earnings from the store are not enough. If you wont cut, the first branch will be left out bec the upper branches will be stronger and healthier. Eventually, the lower branches will die back and the apex will have robust growth. Cut back and style your trees early. This way, all the branches will get ample nutrients. For the bonsai owner, the earlier you decide on the final style, the better so you can remove the un-needed branches and re-direct the nutrients where you need it most. If the tree has been cut-back and growing healthy, it is only then that you can grow the FIRST branch without cutting, until it is at its desired thickness... giving it its undue advantage. If all are not cut, the 3rd, 4th, 5th and apex will thicken fast overtaking your 1st and 2nd. Cut-back for a healthy tree and branching ramification. Postpone cutting to ONLY those branches that need thickening.

 

12. Q: After cutting-back, what is next?

A: Wiring. Now, this is a problematic area on on-line teaching because it needs visual guides and practicum. Go to google. Type: John Naka Bonsai Techniques 1. Study the part on wiring techniques with illustration.

 

13. Q: Where do i buy my wires? Can i use ordinary GI wires?

A: No. You can't use ordinary GI wires. The tension and resistance of GI wires are too much for bending and spiral wrap of branches. Branch breakage will surely occur. Use aluminum or copper wires from the nearest bonsai store. In Metro Manila: CP Garcia U.P.; QC memorial circle, harbest Megamall, Harbest Shaw Blvd. For provincial areas, go ask your nearest bonsai hobbyists and you will be referred to their favorite supplier.

 

14. Q: It rained this afternoon. Do i need to water my bonsais?

A: Always have a BBQ stick on your bonsai pot. If it rained and you're not sure if you'll still have to water your trees or not, push the BBQ stick as far as possible in your bonsai pot. Pull it out. If the tip of the stick is wet, you do NOT need to water your trees. If it is dry, then the rain is not enough for water to seep through the soil of your bonsai. Water your bonsai as if it didn't rain.

 

15. Q: My deadwood (shari and jin) are rotting. What should i do?

A: Apply lime sulfur. In addition to lime sulfur.. wood sealant may also be considered. How? Thoroughly clean/remove the rotten and or unwanted deadwood. Cleaning may be done by the use of brush and or power tools for this purpose or for enhancing the Shari/jin. After the cleaning, the sealant may be used, I personally use the Bosny Silicone Repellant. Read and follow the manufacturers instruction. This is best used before the rainy season ( twice a year). The use of this product will give a natural wood finish. I tried using this on alagaw/abgao, bantigue, newly cleaned bougainvillea. This product delays he progression of the decaying process.

 

16. Q: Where should i get lime sulfur?

A: Same as #12. In Metro Manila: CP Garcia U.P.; QC memorial circle, harbest Megamall, Harbest Shaw Blvd. For provincial areas, go ask your nearest bonsai hobbyists and you will be referred to their favorite supplier.

 

17. Q: How do i apply lime sulfur on deadwood?

A: First, water the entire tree. Then wrap the soil surface with old newspapers down to the lip and sides of the pot, tying the excess paper with wire, at the trunk of your tree. Why do you need to do this? It is becsuse lime sulfur is "poison" to the roots of your bonsai. If all the soil surface are no longer exposed, then start applying lime sulfur with a small paint brush. Start from the top and work your way down to the lowest shari and jin. Why do you need to wet the tree first? So that the lime sulfur will be absorbed by the driftwood. Dry woods will repel the lime sulfur because of surface tension (physics 101). If in any way lime sulfur drops into the bonsai soil, water your bonsai thoroughly to dilute the poison.

 

18. Q: How will i make my bonsai grow faster? They're too slow to develop.

A: Buy more bonsais. You are so focused on your few bonsais that growing them is like taking forever. Buy new trees to re-focus your attention and in a few months, you will be surprised how FAST they are developing. Patience is the key. Nature has its own time. We can't accelerate that.

Remember this: We are not only nurturing nature but it is also the other way around. Nature is nurturing us. Bonsai is gradually teaching us on the wisdom of PATIENCE. Bonsai is changing our personality. We are beginning to accept that "change" has its own time. We are coming into the realization that our goals can be achieved with patience and hard work...through time. That there is no instant success. That we have to invest in time and new knowledge to achieve our goals. That after years of passion in our bonsai hobby, our friends will notice that we are becoming a better person. We can easily let bashings and painful words pass by. We readily smile, even from the mistakes of others, because we fully understand. Because we believe that through time... anyone can change... for the better.

 

19. Q: Why don't i see mangoes, star apple, jackfruit, and other trees as bonsai?

A: Bonsai is based on perspective. We shrink the tree, therefore, the leaves should be also shrunk. But we all know that bonsai is not exactly a shrinking process. We just shorten the trunk and branches. It is more of a styling than shrinking. But leaves do not shrink. A small mango tree with big leaves (almost half of its body in length) will not look like a tree but more of an ornamental plant. PERSPECTIVE IS BASED ON SYMMETRY AND PROPORTION. A small tree = small branches = small leaves. We can't do this with jackfruit and starapple. So at the start, we choose trees with tiny leaves so the final product of a short tree with small leaves is a completely shrunk tree with the right proportion. Our eyes and brain instinctively size-up an object based on other objects nearby. (This is the reason why we take pictures of our bonsai beside a coke bottle, for the viewer to have an idea of the bonsai size). Imagine if i have a book-sized cigarette lighter and put it beside my medium bonsai. People will then think that my bonsai is mame. But if i have a tiny toy barbie shoes, and put it beside my mame... people will think that i have a large bonsai. Same effect with a bonsai with big leaves.

 

20. Q: How do i make my bonsai leaves smaller?

A: Through defoliation. Peculiar to most tree species is that, they give new leaves at the exact point where you cut it off. But the 2nd generation leaves are smaller than the first one. If you cut off the 2nd gen, the 3rd gen will be smaller. Cut off the 3rd gen and comes an even smaller 4th gen...etc. Expose your tree at full sunlight. Shaded trees naturally produce bigger leaves because of photosynthesis (plant food production from sunlight). If your tree is in a shaded area or partial sunlight, photosynthesis is not enough. So they produce bigger leaves for a bigger surface area for food production, compensating for the limited sunlight. Cut-off those big leaves, expose your bonsai to full sunlight and you will see a smaller next-gen set of leaves.

 

21. Q: WHAT ARE THE PLANTS/MATERIALS THAT CAN BE USED FOR BONSAI CULTURE? ANSWER: Since Bonsai is the art of simulating a Tree in the nature into a small potted plant, the plants that can be used must be, with the following characteristics; 1. must have BARK, 2.must have good branching, preferably with short nodes. 3. must have leaves that has the ability to become smaller and smaller as it matures. There should be proportionality of the size of the leaves with the height of the plant. Therefore, succulents such as jade plants, dwarf bananas, and palm trees are not considered materials for bonsai culture. 4. the plant must have the ability to grow roots that will make the plant stable, for it to be able to sustain the rigors of training. (By doc scalpel).

Edited September 30, 2020 by Gumiho

[PotBelly]

CHAPTER 2:

 

RECOMMENDED BONSAI SIZES FOR TROPICAL TREES:

By Nolan Sison

 

Bonsai is about balance, aesthetics and proportion. I will focus on proportion here as it is a common mistake of beginners to choose big-leafed trees as their small bonsai. Remember this: AS YOUR LEAVES GET BIGGER, YOUR TREE (AS A WHOLE) GETS SMALLER IN PERCEPTION. A big-leafed mango tree doen't look right if the bonsai size is small or medium. A mame (6-in and below) bougainvillea will look like an ordinary ornamentsal plant, while a premna taiwan mame will look like a magnificent tall and old tree. The size of the leaves will heavily influence the viewers' perception of tree size.

 

For winter presentation (defoliated), all bonsai species are applicable in any sizes.

 

The following is a list of tropical bonsai's common names (Philippine common names) and their recommended sizes in summer presentation:

(MAME = 6 in. and below; SMALL = 1 ft. and below; MEDIUM = 2 ft. and below; LARGE = 3 ft or 1 meter and below)

 

Alagao Dagat - Small, Medium, Large

Alagao Gubat - Medium, Large

Alagao Taiwan - Mame, Small, Medium, Large

Aratiles - medium, large

Achuete large

Aroma small, medium, large

Agoho mame, small, medium, large (with needle pinching/trimming)

Acacia medium, large

Balete (all species) medium, large

Balete (texas) small, medium, large

Bignay pugo medium, large

Bignay kalabaw large

Bogambilya medium, large

Bantolinao medium, large

Bantigue mame, small, medium, large

Bayabas medium, large

Bayabas dwarf mame, small, medium, large

Blue Bell mame, small, medium, large

Boxwood small, medium, large

China Man's Hat medium, large

Chico medium, large

Camachile small, medium, large

Duhat large

Duhat-dagat large

Fukien Tea mame, small, medium, large

Fire Tree medium, large

Gumamela large

Granaditos mame, small, medium, large

Granada medium, large

Holly (chinese, singapore) small, medium, large

Hibiscus / Linden medium, large

Juniper mame, small, medium, large

Jasmine small, medium, large

Jasmine dwarf mame, small, medium, large

Kaimito large

Kamuning tunay small, medium, large

Kamuning bilog small, medium, large

Kamuning Bangkok mame, small, medium, large

Kulasi mame, small, medium, large

Kalyos mame, small, medium, large

Kalamansi medium, large

Kamagong medium, large

Lantana medium, large

Lagundi medium, large

Lemonsito mame, small, medium, large

Mangga large

Mulberry medium, large

Mulawin (all species) mame, small, medium, large

Malabayabas mame, small, medium, large

Masang mame, small, medium, large

Macopa medium, large

Molave large

Narra large

Pyracantha medium, large

Pyracantha dwarf mame, small, medium, large

Pine (Benguet) small, medium, large (with needle trimming)

Pandakaki small, medium, large

Podocarpus medium, large

Podocarpus dwarf mame, small, medium, large

Sampaloc medium, large

Sampaguitang Gubat medium, large

Sampaguita medium, large

Siniguelas medium, large

Tsaang Gubat mame, small, medium, large

Tugas mame, small, medium, large

Wisteria medium, large

[Jinwashere]

Any pics?

[PotBelly]

Sampalok

[PotBelly]

Bantigue

2 of the best na ibonsai but takes time, medyo mabilis mga ficus best for practicing.

[EnduranceDS]

Hello bro @PotBelly, do you have recommended stores where I can purchase good quality bonsais?