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Engine Oil - All About It


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i heard about the bad thing using fully synthetic oil in the long run, that it'll build up sludges and tar in the engine even if you change oil every 10,000kms, how come is this happening? any advise of switching oil from fully synthetic into semi synthetic oil? thanks

 

i dont think its true, coz ive benn using fully synthetic oil for over 10 years, i dont add up addetives. i used to have a pick up and i used fully synthetic oil since brand new, wen i sell it the engine is still in tip top condition even if it has a milage over 200t km.

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i dont think its true, coz ive benn using fully synthetic oil for over 10 years, i dont add up addetives. i used to have a pick up and i used fully synthetic oil since brand new, wen i sell it the engine is still in tip top condition even if it has a milage over 200t km.

 

 

thanks for the golden info sir.

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cars made 1996 and beyond are ripe for synthetics, earlier models won't have any valued effects on the wear and tear of moving parts. Nowadays the alloys and material compositions of cars have vastly evolved so much so from a molecular level, the synthetics fair very very well on newer cars because of the smooth bonding effects on surfaces. older cars burns the synthetics, newer ones bond to them.

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The most extreme service the oil will encounter will be when your engine is spinning close to redline for long minutes and some of the metal parts heat up red-hot. Try the lube requirements of turbo bearings at full scream, for example. Scary.

 

For those stressed conditions, get yourself synthetics

 

But most of us are destined to drive well below redline. (Except for maybe 5-10 racing events between oil changes, when the guy next to us pricks our macho pinoy ego). A slow revving engine stuck in traffic most of the month does not stress the oil. Compared to redline conditions, traffic conditions are cool.

 

However, a slow revving engine stuck in traffic results to dirty oil, because of the poor combustion experienced by the engine at inefficient idleing. You get fuel contamination and moisture build up. Synthetic or not, your oil will dirty up and get sludgy really fast in traffic.

 

what is the conclusion then?

 

If you are stuck in traffic, you will get dirty oil, synthetic or not. So you may as well buy inexpensive mineral motor oil that you can change cheaply and keep the oil fresher. If you get synthetic here - you will end up dumping it way short of its 10,000 km life in any case, due to traffic dirty up, so no point.

 

if you go distance driving, no traffic, then go for synthetic so you can max out the 10,000 km life and actually save on oil.

 

If you race - and by race I mean every night you stress the engine to 6000 rpm for minutes at a time - then go synthetic.

 

Pinoys being the machos we are, of course we all think we race. So we aspire for synthetic. This only makes the marketers richer, of course.

 

LC

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cars made 1996 and beyond are ripe for synthetics, earlier models won't have any valued effects on the wear and tear of moving parts. Nowadays the alloys and material compositions of cars have vastly evolved so much so from a molecular level, the synthetics fair very very well on newer cars because of the smooth bonding effects on surfaces. older cars burns the synthetics, newer ones bond to them.

 

Well said Bro.. ;) In fact marami na ako pinagtanongan na car mechanics or even mechanical engr

 

yan ang recommended nla, that older cars model won't benefit of having synthetics oil in there engine.

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With the worsening traffic and pollution, car owners in Manila should consider changing oil earlier. Say at least 4,500kms for mineral oil and 6,000kms for synthetics.

 

Anyway, here's my take on mineral and synthetic oils. Mineral oils we usually see are 20w50 range. Synthetics can go as low as 0w30. The latter has been refined to be very slick. On cold weather start ups, where our engines are at the most vulnerable point, a thinner oil will be most ideal; the oil flows faster to lubricate the engine. A 5W30 oil is rated as energy conserving. Why, because the thinner it gets, the more the engine can run freely and can lead to slightly lower fuel consumption.

 

On daily driven cars with mineral oil, just let the engine warm up for less than a minute during cold starts to lessen engine wear and replace oil every 6months/4500kms whichever comes first.

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I rarely go out of Metro Manila. This year, I drove up to Sta Rosa around 3 times, and that's it for my long drive. Neither do I race or own a performance car. Kaya para sakin, I only use regular oil and have it and the oil filter changed every 5000kms. With daily traffic, parang mas kampante ako if I have my oil changed frequently. But that's just me.

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cars made 1996 and beyond are ripe for synthetics, earlier models won't have any valued effects on the wear and tear of moving parts. Nowadays the alloys and material compositions of cars have vastly evolved so much so from a molecular level, the synthetics fair very very well on newer cars because of the smooth bonding effects on surfaces. older cars burns the synthetics, newer ones bond to them.

I fully Agree with this! I also want to suggest using the oil that is appropriate for the cars aplication, kung race ba yan o daily driver. currently using Castrol 20W 50. change oil every 3K kms.

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