Dr_PepPeR Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Btw, Doc, I got only two small kits, a Hase Tri Tool and some plastic rods. Didnt much go for the kits. But I did bring home about 2 dozen bottles of Gunze. Re-stock!!! I'm sure you got more stuff that was non-model related! Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 (edited) whats a Tri Tool Herr Boelcke? any 1/32 modern aircraft you guys might recommend? How about the Academy 1/32 Hornet and Viper? And the Trumpeter 1/32 Lightning? http://62.0.5.133/attach.high-g.nett/attachments/a12101top.jpg http://www.rollmodels.nett/nreviews/airplanes/32acadf18/ACA2191.jpg http://www.ipmsusa2.org/reviews2/aircraft/kits/trumpeter_32_ee-lightning/boxart.jpg Edited May 30, 2009 by Dr_PepPeR Quote Link to comment
smvillalon Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 available locally? baka mahal hehehe I think I saw a Tritool in STC Greenhills or Cubao... It's been a while but I think it's still there. Jun Quote Link to comment
floppydrive Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 I asked a friend of mine a few years back if there are foils with adhesive backing. He said to check the hobby craft stores. According to him, there is a material similar to goldleaf (except that it is attached through an adhesive rather than heat) that is used for book binding and calligraphy work. I have never used it nor sought to find it though. I just use Gunze's Mr. Metal (when we talk of small areas like interior detailing) or ask to spray some Alclad during group builds from some of our members (this is where group builds really come in handy). I'm sorry I could not be of too much help on this subject. I am really squeamish when it comes to metal finishes. Best Regards, JunDoc,If Alclad can work, then maybe you can try out some of the metalizers. If there's not much detail work to show on the surface where the foil will be placed, maybe watered down white glue (Elmers) and foil will do. Haven't tried this, so I'm not sure if it will work. Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) How about the Academy 1/32 Hornet and Viper? And the Trumpeter 1/32 Lightning? the Hornet and Viper sound nice. oh i have Raptor pala. i stay away from metal finishes for now. one slight scratch on the surface and it ruins the job. that's what happened to my 1st 1/32 kit. the engine is to be painted aluminum. but there are areas where scratches and dried glue on the engine. and when i painted it with Gunze Metal Alumine (i dont even know if that is Aluminum), the scratches and imperfections were really visible. so that's it for now with metallic finishes. the only metal paint i've used is Gunze Silver, which for me comes out really nice even if applied with my clunky Tamiya Basic Spraywork set Edited May 31, 2009 by bugoy2004 Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 available locally? baka mahal hehehe I think I saw a Tritool in STC Greenhills or Cubao... It's been a while but I think it's still there. Jun I also saw Hase's Tritool in Lil's. I think they come in different sets. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 ey doc? places to hit? for 1:1 models or model kits? :upside: Both actually. I made arrangements already for the 1:1 models to be found at the MPs in KL but I still have to work on the smaller scale models. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Ah yes... this is a problem that has faced a lot of us. actually, this is the reason I never finished my Lindberg 1/72 Hustler. I did not want to go through the trouble. But nevertheless, I came across an article in FSM (not FHM though the articles are just as interesting - only in 1:1 scale) about using foil on a P-38 Lghtning. Here's the link: http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/f...ightning(1).pdf According t the article, they use ordinary aluminum foil and a Microscale adhesive (I honestly do not have the foggiest notion where that can be procured locally) You can ask Natalie of JMN if she carries them. If not, maybe she could order it for you through Hannants. Regarding the issue of thinning rugby or cntact adhesive... I really do not recommend it because you can only thin contact cement effectively with Toluene (the vehicle of the brand Rugby and Do-All). This is a PDEA regulated substance (like acetone). If you can get it using a doctor's license, then you may be able to thin contact adhesive but I believe it is a lot of trouble for a small problem. I asked a friend of mine a few years back if there are foils with adhesive backing. He said to check the hobby craft stores. According to him, there is a material similar to goldleaf (except that it is attached through an adhesive rather than heat) that is used for book binding and calligraphy work. I have never used it nor sought to find it though. I just use Gunze's Mr. Metal (when we talk of small areas like interior detailing) or ask to spray some Alclad during group builds from some of our members (this is where group builds really come in handy). I'm sorry I could not be of too much help on this subject. I am really squeamish when it comes to metal finishes. Best Regards, Jun When I got my 1/48 Monogram Hustler, I intended to use aluminum foil after seing an online article of the same subject. I even bought a cheap roll of foil because it was so thin and would have been better than the normal foil. What put me off was finding an adhesive for it. Now that I have AlcladII, this is what I intend to use on kits with natural metal finishes. For the foil backed by adhesive, you might be referring to Bare Metal Foil, which also comes in different metal shades. I was able to buy a couple of sheets from Roel's store a few years ago but I only use this for detailing as it is quite expensive. I am also squemish about natural metal finishes, but I do have kits that call for it. I will start with 1/72 scale so that I can experiment. Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Doc,If Alclad can work, then maybe you can try out some of the metalizers. If there's not much detail work to show on the surface where the foil will be placed, maybe watered down white glue (Elmers) and foil will do. Haven't tried this, so I'm not sure if it will work. Watered down white glue might do the trick. It just has a long setting time and can be affected by water. Quote Link to comment
vengaboy Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 I think the point here is about humility and camaraderie. So to everyone don't heat up this thread or if anyone feels alluded to just feel free to create a new thread but not on this particular one. And you dont think we do? Wow. Funny meeting you here, Jun. And funny seeing you still strutting the same old thing. We had more than 700 entries in our last Nationals. We got major model manufacturers backing up our shows. You dont think we can back that up? Tell you what. Check out the entire thread and you wont see any derogatory remark on IPMS Manila coming from me. So why dont you just cool it with your homily, and if you want to discuss models per se leave it at that. Dont bring that garbage here. Allan A. Yeah. Its me. Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 good thing it's raining. otherwise i'd be at Festival mall again at aali-aligid sa STC :upside: Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 the Hornet and Viper sound nice. oh i have Raptor pala. i stay away from metal finishes for now. one slight scratch on the surface and it ruins the job. that's what happened to my 1st 1/32 kit. the engine is to be painted aluminum. but there are areas where scratches and dried glue on the engine. and when i painted it with Gunze Metal Alumine (i dont even know if that is Aluminum), the scratches and imperfections were really visible. so that's it for now with metallic finishes. the only metal paint i've used is Gunze Silver, which for me comes out really nice even if applied with my clunky Tamiya Basic Spraywork set I think BMF are part of the initiation rites of modeling, just like DIY zimmerit and the old DML indi link tracks. At one time or another, this will have to be attempted and mastered. I read that the finish of the plastic will have to be perfect for a BMF on the body itself. I'm still afraid of attempting a BMF, maybe after I've done a few fuselages with elimated seams, then and only then. So you have Academy's 1/48 Raptor? Just got mine from Lil's. Damn expensive kit but it really looks impressive from the box! Quote Link to comment
Dr_PepPeR Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 good thing it's raining. otherwise i'd be at Festival mall again at aali-aligid sa STC :upside: It should be a great time for tinkering with the models but here I am getting my libido massaged at the usual MTC threads. I'm so pathetic. Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 yep the Raptor's box is almost as big as a 1/32 kit. got mine from STC Festival. 100 peso difference. if i go to Lil's kasi ganun din suma dahil pamasahe. another thing to master BMF is the seamline when the fuselage mate. has to be perfect Quote Link to comment
bugoy2004 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) It should be a great time for tinkering with the models but here I am getting my libido massaged at the usual MTC threads. I'm so pathetic. yep. right now i'm doing the landing gears for the 1/32 MIG-21, my first foray into 1/32 territory. while doing this kit i also discovered i can use stretched sprue to seal the lines where the fuselage halves mate. i sure hope it doesn't show when the kit is done. Edited May 31, 2009 by bugoy2004 Quote Link to comment
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