Who Is Into Scale Modelling?

[Boelcke]

The monicker "Home of the Best Modelers in the Philippines" seems a little too boastful for my taste. I honestly believe that if you must put a statement out, then you must have something to back it up.

Jun

 

And you dont think we do?

 

Wow.

 

 

Funny meeting you here, Jun. And funny seeing you still strutting the same old thing. We had more than 700 entries in our last Nationals. We got major model manufacturers backing up our shows. You dont think we can back that up?

 

 

 

 

Tell you what. Check out the entire thread and you wont see any derogatory remark on IPMS Manila coming from me. So why dont you just cool it with your homily, and if you want to discuss models per se leave it at that. Dont bring that garbage here.

 

 

Allan A.

 

Yeah. Its me.

[Boelcke]

Doc,

 

Just got back from Singapore. Next week Ill post pictures of hobby shops there. Just let me wipe the drool off first.

 

Edited May 30, 2009 by Boelcke

[smvillalon]

You're right, there is probably no rush. I think when I reach compulsary retirement I will need a club to join so I have something to do. As of now, I just keep looking at the net and magazines to keep up to date on the latest modeling trends. Am I happy? Yes, at least for now. Could I be happier? Maybe, but I don't have that much cash (joke). Thank you for your offer about helping me regarding models/modeling, I need lots of that. Would you know the secret to masking the canopy of a 1/72 Bf-109?

 

Doc,

 

there's no real "secret" to it. Just like any canopy masking project you need two things; a good brand of masking tape (like 3M's Tartan or if you have the spare cash, Tamiya masking tape) and A LOT OF PATIENCE). The photo is a 1/48 109 done by Bret Green. Note the way it was masked.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/smvillalon/bf109e132bg_42.jpg

 

Note that he covered the glass portions only and used a single mask on each. This is a little more complicated if yours is a 1/72. What I do is I cut small triangular strips of tape (about the size of the smaller portions of the canopy the angle is up to you but I normally use about a 30-degree one. Now here's the fun part. Start applying the tape one on top of each other using the tip of the triangle tape to mask the edges and build around it by putting more and more tape. You will end up with a bunch of triangle-shaped tapes on top of one another but covering practically the whole glass areas. It does not look good but it will provide a good mask. Just be careful when applying and make sure that the pointed ends of the triangle mask adhere well to the surface of the canopy. Otherwise you'll get seepage and you'll ruin the job.

 

Masking takes a little practice but I believe that the most important thing a modeler must watch out for in masking whether they be canopies, racing stripes, decal markings,roundels, etc. are the crispness and adhesion of the mating surface edges. The slightest seepage will be disastrous.

 

I normally use an old burnishing tool I bought at a local craft shop (it was intended to be used for sticker and scrap-booking and other similar crafts) and lightly burnish the edges to ensure no leaks. Oh and once you know the paint has more or less set (about an hour for most paints), remove the mask immediately. Never leave the masking tape for long periods of time or you may have trouble removing the tape because the adhesive has set onto the model's surface.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Best Regards,

 

Jun

[Boelcke]

Sir, you do have to take into consideration that IPMS BAC is "the home of the best modelers in the Philippines".

 

If someone claims to be the best, chances are they are only looking for the best.

So if you are just a happy-go-lucky modeler like me, then you may not be what they are looking for.

 

Anyhow our doors are open 24/7 as long as you aren't an axe murderer! hehehehe

 

Take care mate and happy modeling!

 

 

And youre all experts on what IPMS-Bert Anido is looking for?

 

Damn it, thats what I mean about bringing garbage into this thread. People say stuff like that and then play coy like they didnt mean anything about it.

 

Please, dont assume people here have a limited IQ.

[Dr_PepPeR]

Doc,

 

Just got back from Singapore. Next week Ill post pictures of hobby shops there. Just let me wipe the drool off first.

 

 

Hi Herr Boelcke, I'm afraid I'm the one responsible for dredging up that old issue. The opinions stated here are entirely my own, and as I have said, I have friends in both camps. Sorry about that.

 

On another note, I would love to see what kind of hobby stuff you were able to get in the Lion City. And I hope the pictures you post will have some girls in them. I will probably fly to Malaysia later this year and I'll ask some of the Malaysian based modelers which places to hit.

[Dr_PepPeR]

Doc,

 

there's no real "secret" to it. Just like any canopy masking project you need two things; a good brand of masking tape (like 3M's Tartan or if you have the spare cash, Tamiya masking tape) and A LOT OF PATIENCE). The photo is a 1/48 109 done by Bret Green. Note the way it was masked.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/smvillalon/bf109e132bg_42.jpg

 

Note that he covered the glass portions only and used a single mask on each. This is a little more complicated if yours is a 1/72. What I do is I cut small triangular strips of tape (about the size of the smaller portions of the canopy the angle is up to you but I normally use about a 30-degree one. Now here's the fun part. Start applying the tape one on top of each other using the tip of the triangle tape to mask the edges and build around it by putting more and more tape. You will end up with a bunch of triangle-shaped tapes on top of one another but covering practically the whole glass areas. It does not look good but it will provide a good mask. Just be careful when applying and make sure that the pointed ends of the triangle mask adhere well to the surface of the canopy. Otherwise you'll get seepage and you'll ruin the job.

 

Masking takes a little practice but I believe that the most important thing a modeler must watch out for in masking whether they be canopies, racing stripes, decal markings,roundels, etc. are the crispness and adhesion of the mating surface edges. The slightest seepage will be disastrous.

 

I normally use an old burnishing tool I bought at a local craft shop (it was intended to be used for sticker and scrap-booking and other similar crafts) and lightly burnish the edges to ensure no leaks. Oh and once you know the paint has more or less set (about an hour for most paints), remove the mask immediately. Never leave the masking tape for long periods of time or you may have trouble removing the tape because the adhesive has set onto the model's surface.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Best Regards,

 

Jun

 

That helps a lot, thanks! Actually the small triangular masking tape technique was the one Dave Gibson recommended to me, but I gave up after I botched it. I will go back to my Bf-109 and sweat out the masking. I have to call on the force to give me the patience of a Jedi Master.

 

Another question, if it's all right with you? I'm doing the interior of an Academy Bradley, and from my reference photos, the base of the turret where it connects to the floor is shiny metal. I think I want to do this via aluminum foil (since this is an interior that will only be seen through the hatches, I don't want to use BMF on this) but I don't know what adhesive to use. Micro Mark has foil adhesive but of course, I can't get hold of it. Would using rugby be OK? My thoughts are that I might not be able to spread the rugby evenly so it might have to be thinned down. Would you know what I can thin rugby with? TIA!

[Boelcke]

Hi Herr Boelcke, I'm afraid I'm the one responsible for dredging up that old issue. The opinions stated here are entirely my own, and as I have said, I have friends in both camps. Sorry about that.

 

On another note, I would love to see what kind of hobby stuff you were able to get in the Lion City. And I hope the pictures you post will have some girls in them. I will probably fly to Malaysia later this year and I'll ask some of the Malaysian based modelers which places to hit.

 

 

No worries, Doc. What happened in the past cant be changed. But it doesnt help if some people dwell on it.

 

Theres a good chance these people will post a reply to my post and that would in turn spark a never ending debate in this thread. But Im not falling for it.

 

I dont know about you guys, but Ive gotten tired of repeating the same old debate we had back in the days. At this point its all just bringing out dirty linen. Makes us all look bad.

 

Its been 5, 6 years? Lets all get over that.

[Boelcke]

Btw, Doc, I got only two small kits, a Hase Tri Tool and some plastic rods. Didnt much go for the kits.

 

But I did bring home about 2 dozen bottles of Gunze.

 

 

 

Re-stock!!!

[bugoy2004]

whats a Tri Tool Herr Boelcke? any 1/32 modern aircraft you guys might recommend?

[bugoy2004]

On another note, I would love to see what kind of hobby stuff you were able to get in the Lion City. And I hope the pictures you post will have some girls in them. I will probably fly to Malaysia later this year and I'll ask some of the Malaysian based modelers which places to hit.

 

ey doc? places to hit? for 1:1 models or model kits? :upside:

Edited May 30, 2009 by bugoy2004

[smvillalon]

That helps a lot, thanks! Actually the small triangular masking tape technique was the one Dave Gibson recommended to me, but I gave up after I botched it. I will go back to my Bf-109 and sweat out the masking. I have to call on the force to give me the patience of a Jedi Master.

 

Another question, if it's all right with you? I'm doing the interior of an Academy Bradley, and from my reference photos, the base of the turret where it connects to the floor is shiny metal. I think I want to do this via aluminum foil (since this is an interior that will only be seen through the hatches, I don't want to use BMF on this) but I don't know what adhesive to use. Micro Mark has foil adhesive but of course, I can't get hold of it. Would using rugby be OK? My thoughts are that I might not be able to spread the rugby evenly so it might have to be thinned down. Would you know what I can thin rugby with? TIA!

 

Ah yes... this is a problem that has faced a lot of us. actually, this is the reason I never finished my Lindberg 1/72 Hustler. I did not want to go through the trouble. But nevertheless, I came across an article in FSM (not FHM though the articles are just as interesting - only in 1:1 scale) about using foil on a P-38 Lghtning. Here's the link:

 

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/f...ightning(1).pdf

 

According t the article, they use ordinary aluminum foil and a Microscale adhesive (I honestly do not have the foggiest notion where that can be procured locally) You can ask Natalie of JMN if she carries them. If not, maybe she could order it for you through Hannants.

 

Regarding the issue of thinning rugby or cntact adhesive... I really do not recommend it because you can only thin contact cement effectively with Toluene (the vehicle of the brand Rugby and Do-All). This is a PDEA regulated substance (like acetone). If you can get it using a doctor's license, then you may be able to thin contact adhesive but I believe it is a lot of trouble for a small problem.

 

I asked a friend of mine a few years back if there are foils with adhesive backing. He said to check the hobby craft stores. According to him, there is a material similar to goldleaf (except that it is attached through an adhesive rather than heat) that is used for book binding and calligraphy work. I have never used it nor sought to find it though. I just use Gunze's Mr. Metal (when we talk of small areas like interior detailing) or ask to spray some Alclad during group builds from some of our members (this is where group builds really come in handy).

 

I'm sorry I could not be of too much help on this subject. I am really squeamish when it comes to metal finishes.

 

Best Regards,

 

Jun

[smvillalon]

Hi Allan,

 

How are you doing my friend? I hope all is fine. It's been a while since we've talked.

 

I think I may have struck a tender nerve here. Honestly, I was just reacting to Dr. Pepper's comment. I'm sorry if you thought I was insinuating anything. I was not... I just following the thread of conversation at the time. So let's leave it at that.. Next topic... :flowers:

 

I'm glad to hear got just came back from your Singapore trip safely. Business trip? :thumbsupsmiley:

 

It's a little difficult to find models over there because the shops are not as well stocked as Hong Kong and they are quite pricey. The food is great though... especially the steamed fish in the Chinatown area. Las time I tried the steamed grouper and the fish was great - a little big but great!

 

See you around pre!

 

Jun

 

 

 

And you dont think we do?

 

Wow.

 

 

Funny meeting you here, Jun. And funny seeing you still strutting the same old thing. We had more than 700 entries in our last Nationals. We got major model manufacturers backing up our shows. You dont think we can back that up?

 

 

 

 

Tell you what. Check out the entire thread and you wont see any derogatory remark on IPMS Manila coming from me. So why dont you just cool it with your homily, and if you want to discuss models per se leave it at that. Dont bring that garbage here.

 

 

Allan A.

 

Yeah. Its me.

[smvillalon]

Correct me if I'm wrong but a tritool is a set of saw blades sold by Hasegawa. It's used for cutting and scribing plastic.

 

Tama ba Allan?

 

Jun

 

whats a Tri Tool Herr Boelcke? any 1/32 modern aircraft you guys might recommend?

[bugoy2004]

available locally? baka mahal hehehe

[Dr_PepPeR]

No worries, Doc. What happened in the past cant be changed. But it doesnt help if some people dwell on it.

 

Theres a good chance these people will post a reply to my post and that would in turn spark a never ending debate in this thread. But Im not falling for it.

 

I dont know about you guys, but Ive gotten tired of repeating the same old debate we had back in the days. At this point its all just bringing out dirty linen. Makes us all look bad.

 

Its been 5, 6 years? Lets all get over that.

 

Don't worry Herr Boelcke, I'm sure we can skip the whole thing and move on. At least the thread has become active again. But I really apologize for bringing it up. I should have known better.