Who Is Into Scale Modelling?

[bugoy2004]

rainy days again. how am i suppose to paint?

[smvillalon]

It's Water Separator time, pre... and time to put out the 100W tungsten lamps for additional heat...

 

I know it's not entirely true but Hey... who can afford a de-humidifier in their own room?

 

Jun

 

rainy days again. how am i suppose to paint?

[Dr_PepPeR]

Yup...

 

Jun

 

Tell me when you have set up shop, I'd like to purchase some barrels then, WW2 armor allied and axis. I can live with just the gun barrels as I can always attach the plastic muzzle brake or scratchbuild one.

[Dr_PepPeR]

rainy days again. how am i suppose to paint?

 

 

It's Water Separator time, pre... and time to put out the 100W tungsten lamps for additional heat...

 

I know it's not entirely true but Hey... who can afford a de-humidifier in their own room?

 

Jun

 

The only water trap/water separator I could find was the one made by KCY tools. With my current compressor/airbrush set up, I could only attach it to the base (where it connects to the comp), but as far as I know it should be attached as close to the airbrush as possible. If it's the drying time that is your concern, I have tried my spouse's hair blower, set at the lowest setting. Just don't overdo it, my impatience has resulted in somewhat droopy models (the damn plastic melted).

[smvillalon]

Doc,

 

This is what I mean. It's pricey (close to 2K) but worth it.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/smvillalon/267572_300.jpg

 

Jun

 

The only water trap/water separator I could find was the one made by KCY tools. With my current compressor/airbrush set up, I could only attach it to the base (where it connects to the comp), but as far as I know it should be attached as close to the airbrush as possible. If it's the drying time that is your concern, I have tried my spouse's hair blower, set at the lowest setting. Just don't overdo it, my impatience has resulted in somewhat droopy models (the damn plastic melted).

[Dr_PepPeR]

Doc,

 

This is what I mean. It's pricey (close to 2K) but worth it.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/smvillalon/267572_300.jpg

 

Jun

 

That looks kewl. Where can I get one of those? My set up looks something like this, except that water trap attaches to the other end of the hose:

 

http://62.0.5.134/i16.ebayimg.comm/07/i/001/1d/78/42d3_1.JPG

Edited June 5, 2009 by Dr_PepPeR

[floppydrive]

Doc,

 

This is what I mean. It's pricey (close to 2K) but worth it.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/smvillalon/267572_300.jpg

 

Jun

Sir, what's the pressure range of the device?

[smvillalon]

Mine is rated at 160psig because my compressor's maximum rating is 160 psig also (Vespa). Remember that you must match the FR unit with the compressor you are using. If you have a low-pressure, high volume compressor (like Thomas, Kawasaki, Gunze, Testor's) then you get one that's in the 80psig range only. The compressors I mentioned have a maximum pressure rating of about 45 to 60 psig. So you're safe with an FR unit rated at 80psig. the nice thing is the FR units in this range are normally cheaper. If, however, you are using the higher pressure ones (the ones with tanks like Iwata, Vespa, Atlas Copco and the like), the maximum pressure rating varies depending on the capacity you bought. The easiest way to determine the pressure rating is to look at your compressor's pressure gauge (these ones always have one beside the service valve). Then get the FR unit that has the same rated pressure. Normally, the 1 and 2 HP compressors are rated at 160 to 180 psi. Occasionally, you find one that's 200 to 220 but that's very rare (i think only Atlas Copco has that kind). So you buy an FR unit that's about 160 to 180 psig also. The reason I am suggesting that you match the pressure rating with the compressor is because you do not want to end up with an FR unit that's either overkill or may explode if you open the valve too high (which is a definite possibility). so for your peace of mind, match it.

 

Jun

 

Sir, what's the pressure range of the device?

[smvillalon]

I bought my FR unit at Panda Construction along Araneta Avenue. Honestly though, I suggest buying your units in T. Alonzo (like Iris Commercial or some other store selling compressors and pumps there) because the prices there are much cheaper. Last I looked, it cost 1600 to 1800 there. In Panda, it cost me 2500.

 

Jun

 

Sir, what's the pressure range of the device?

 

That looks kewl. Where can I get one of those? My set up looks something like this, except that water trap attaches to the other end of the hose:

[floppydrive]

I bought my FR unit at Panda Construction along Araneta Avenue. Honestly though, I suggest buying your units in T. Alonzo (like Iris Commercial or some other store selling compressors and pumps there) because the prices there are much cheaper. Last I looked, it cost 1600 to 1800 there. In Panda, it cost me 2500.

 

Jun

Thanks!

 

I think I know of a place where one can get it cheaper- a japanese surplus shop in Pasig. Will look around next time I get to pass by. These are working industrial units in Japan where the company phased out the operating equipment or closed shop.

 

Is very consistent and constant airflow important or is it OK to have a slight fluctuation in airflow, such as when the air tank pressure is high (just when the compressor motor just stopped) and when the tank pressure is at is lowest (when the compressor motor is about to start)?

[smvillalon]

Fluctuations in airflow are a sign of low air volume as well as low air pressure. It really is not an issue if you are an armor or ship modeler. I mean who has ever seen a ship or a tank that has even painting after it's been out on the field for God knows how long?

 

But if you are an A/C modeller or even worse, a car modeller, then you really need the consistent airflow.

 

If you ask me, the key to consistent airflow is to choose a compressor with a big enough tank and couple it to an FR unit. The tank removes most of the pulses coming from the compressor unit and the FR unit does the rest. Normally, as a rule of thumb, compressors being used for airbrushing should have a working pressure of around 20 to 60psig and an air volume of about 1.5CFM (for a 1/3 HP unit) to 3CFM (for a 2HP unit). High horsepower and pressure normally ensures a high volume of airflow for as long as your tank is big enough. You can control the pulses by controlling when the compressor cuts in and out (turns on and off). Normally, they cut-in at about 55psig anbd cut-off at about 65psig. Some of the bigger units can cut off at higher pressures but we really do not neeed it. Airbrushes are only rated to operate at a maximum pressure of about 45psig. Anything over that and the hoses burst and the O-rings leak. There are special airbrushes designed for higher pressures but these are the ones used for sand-blasting.

 

Jun

 

Thanks!

 

I think I know of a place where one can get it cheaper- a japanese surplus shop in Pasig. Will look around next time I get to pass by. These are working industrial units in Japan where the company phased out the operating equipment or closed shop.

 

Is very consistent and constant airflow important or is it OK to have a slight fluctuation in airflow, such as when the air tank pressure is high (just when the compressor motor just stopped) and when the tank pressure is at is lowest (when the compressor motor is about to start)?

Edited June 6, 2009 by smvillalon

[bugoy2004]

hmmm nice day to hit the hobby shop and feel sorry for myself coz i don't have moolah for a 1/32nd a/c kit.....or tinker with my fishbed. hhmmmm what to do...

[smvillalon]

Let's follow your trend of thought...

 

Fishbed...

 

Eh di humanap ka nang Dalagang Bukid then take her to bed... hehehe

 

Jun

 

hmmm nice day to hit the hobby shop and feel sorry for myself coz i don't have moolah for a 1/32nd a/c kit.....or tinker with my fishbed. hhmmmm what to do...

[bugoy2004]

and tinker with her hmmmm :evil:

[Dr_PepPeR]

Another non-modeling weekend for me. Will try again over the long weekend. As if.