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Who Is Into Scale Modelling?


coolestboy

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*Ship Aftermartket are abundant in Special toy's Center*

Look for extra Planes for your carrier ships and railing and radar.

makes your model look a lot better

 

 

Now here's a workbench for beginners

 

 

Basics!!

 

Build a hide-away workbench! Para di naka-kalat ung tools and parts mo.

 

Build a hideaway workbench

Ted Herman of FineScaleModeller

 

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/images/benchl.JPG

 

 

If you’ve ever found space at a premium

for modeling, perhaps I have a solution

to your dilemma. I’ve had some cramped

quarters in my time, so I put my thinking

cap on to find workspace where there

wasn’t any. I came up with what I call

“The Hideaway Workbench,” or “The

Murphy Bench for the Living Space

Impaired.”

Cut and paste. The design is flexible.

As long as you follow the formulas

here, you can easily modify the overall

dimensions to accommodate your particular

needs. To build the bench as shown,

you’ll need the better part of a 4' x 8' sheet

of plywood (Grade B or better).

Feel confident to cut out all the pieces

shown in the plans for a trouble-free

assembly. This enables you to use a table

saw, band saw, and various other wood

shop tools of a friend if you do not own

them yourself. Just follow the cutting list

for the plywood and the dimensional

lumber. Lightly mark each piece with an

identifying mark (for example: B1/Top

cabinet, etc.) so that when you are assembling

the unit you can easily note what

part of the structure you’re handling.

At this point you’ll have a large pile of

lumber to be assembled. All joints are

simple butt joints that are glued (use carpenter’s

glue for the best bonds), then

screwed together. I found that this gives

you more than enough strength and durability.

For those with the time and the

know-how, mortised or rabbet joints

could be implemented, although this

would cause a reconfiguring of the given

dimensions and formulas.

Assembly required. Start by

assembling the base frame. Be sure to

pre-drill and countersink the holes for the

3" No. 10 wood screws. Drill to a depth

of 1" minimum at joints where you are

drilling through 3" of wood. Otherwise a

1⁄2" countersink is sufficient. You can

mark your drill bit with masking tape at

the proper depth to make this process

easier. I recommend that all joints be

glued, with two screws added at each

joint. Once complete, you can attach the

base’s bottom with 11⁄2" No. 8 wood

screws.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8730/figure17ja.jpg

 

*All dimensions given in inches

Component A: 96"-2 by 4 dimensional lumber 3 needed

Component B: 48 x 96-3⁄4-inch plywood (grade B or better) 1 needed

Component C: 48 x 96-1⁄4-inch Masonite or plywood 1 needed

Lower cabinet/stand (Component A)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 27" 4

2 30" 8

3 5" 4

4 6.5" 4

Upper cabinet (Component B)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 24" x 30" 2

2 10.5" x 28.5" 1

3 10.5" x 30" 2

4 5.25" x 28.5" 1

5 8.25" x 5.25" 1

Covers/ fascia for door and base (Component C)

(Not shown in illustrations)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 30" x 13.5" 2

2 30" x 12" 2

3 30" x 30.5" 1

Hardware List

Piece

No. Type Quantity

H1 2" x 11⁄2" flush-mount hinge 4

H2 3" draw latch 1

H3 No. 10 x 3" wood screws 60

H4* No. 8 x 1⁄2" bugle head wood screws 60

H5 No. 6 x 1" finishing nails 1lb

H6 No. 8 x 1⁄2" pan head wood screws 20

H7 30" x 1 1⁄2" piano hinge 1

*can substitute No. 6 11⁄2" finishing nails

Cutting List

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8835/cuttinglist6al.jpg

 

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/6843/figure27nc.jpg

 

The supports and optional lower doors

section can be assembled next. This is

merely a four-piece framework, made

from 2 by 4s. The holes for the screws will

need to be pre-drilled and countersunk as

they were in the base framework.

Assemble them with 3" No. 10 wood

screws.

 

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/4074/figure32ug.jpg

 

Now attach the sheathing to the outside

of the base with finishing nails 3⁄4" to

1" in length. You can now, if you wish, fill

the countersink holes with either dowel

rods cut and sanded flush or with filler

putty. If you choose to enclose the lower

section, attach the doors to the base with

hinges as specified in the drawings. The

base can now be set aside until later.

Next, turn your attention to the cabinet.

Start by laying the back out on a flat

surface. Prepare the sides by applying glue

to the mating surfaces. These can be

attached using 11⁄2" #8 bugle-head screws

or can be nailed with finishing nails. If

you are using finishing nails and a hammer,

you will need to clamp the parts

until the glue has time to set. (Screws and

pneumatic nailing will not require clamping.)

After this, prep and attach the top,

then the bottom, to the cabinet. The

result should be a large box.

Assemble the dividers to the shelf

(before inserting them into the cabinet).

When marking the shelf for placement of

the dividers, transfer the marks to the

inside of the top (this way, there will be

no need for squares later on). All of these

pieces should be assembled with glue and

fasteners. Be sure to run a row of fasteners

down the back of the cabinet at the

shelf, too. This will give the support

needed to prevent the shelf from sagging

under a load. Cubbys are shown in drawings

but shelving can be easily modified

to meet your needs. If you plan on applying

a finish to the cabinet, now is a good

time to do it. Be sure to finish the folddown

front at the same time.

Once all this is done, you can attach

the cabinet to the base. Use 11⁄2" No. 8

bugle-head screws in at least the four corners

and along the back every 12". Now

assemble the front to the base using the

drawings as a guide. Use 1⁄2" No. 8 panhead

wood screws or the hardware

provided with your hinge set. Attach the

draw latch to the top of the cabinet centered

across the top according to the

manufacturer’s instructions and you

should be finished.

Open the doors to 90 degrees from

closed, unlatch and lower the cabinet

front until it rests on the open doors, and

presto, the bench is in operation. This

cabinet is both strong and space saving.

You can add a power strip to the cabinet

or the base, and a swing-arm light can be

easily installed on the top!

 

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/3207/figure41rs.jpg

 

 

Yan! meron na kayong work bench! /no1

Link to comment

*Ship Aftermartket are abundant in Special toy's Center*

Look for extra Planes for your carrier ships and railing and radar.

makes your model look a lot better

 

 

Now here's a workbench for beginners

 

 

Basics!!

 

Build a hide-away workbench! Para di naka-kalat ung tools and parts mo.

 

Build a hideaway workbench

Ted Herman of FineScaleModeller

 

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/images/benchl.JPG

 

 

If you’ve ever found space at a premium

for modeling, perhaps I have a solution

to your dilemma. I’ve had some cramped

quarters in my time, so I put my thinking

cap on to find workspace where there

wasn’t any. I came up with what I call

“The Hideaway Workbench,” or “The

Murphy Bench for the Living Space

Impaired.”

Cut and paste. The design is flexible.

As long as you follow the formulas

here, you can easily modify the overall

dimensions to accommodate your particular

needs. To build the bench as shown,

you’ll need the better part of a 4' x 8' sheet

of plywood (Grade B or better).

Feel confident to cut out all the pieces

shown in the plans for a trouble-free

assembly. This enables you to use a table

saw, band saw, and various other wood

shop tools of a friend if you do not own

them yourself. Just follow the cutting list

for the plywood and the dimensional

lumber. Lightly mark each piece with an

identifying mark (for example: B1/Top

cabinet, etc.) so that when you are assembling

the unit you can easily note what

part of the structure you’re handling.

At this point you’ll have a large pile of

lumber to be assembled. All joints are

simple butt joints that are glued (use carpenter’s

glue for the best bonds), then

screwed together. I found that this gives

you more than enough strength and durability.

For those with the time and the

know-how, mortised or rabbet joints

could be implemented, although this

would cause a reconfiguring of the given

dimensions and formulas.

Assembly required. Start by

assembling the base frame. Be sure to

pre-drill and countersink the holes for the

3" No. 10 wood screws. Drill to a depth

of 1" minimum at joints where you are

drilling through 3" of wood. Otherwise a

1⁄2" countersink is sufficient. You can

mark your drill bit with masking tape at

the proper depth to make this process

easier. I recommend that all joints be

glued, with two screws added at each

joint. Once complete, you can attach the

base’s bottom with 11⁄2" No. 8 wood

screws.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8730/figure17ja.jpg

 

*All dimensions given in inches

Component A: 96"-2 by 4 dimensional lumber 3 needed

Component B: 48 x 96-3⁄4-inch plywood (grade B or better) 1 needed

Component C: 48 x 96-1⁄4-inch Masonite or plywood 1 needed

Lower cabinet/stand (Component A)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 27" 4

2 30" 8

3 5" 4

4 6.5" 4

Upper cabinet (Component B)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 24" x 30" 2

2 10.5" x 28.5" 1

3 10.5" x 30" 2

4 5.25" x 28.5" 1

5 8.25" x 5.25" 1

Covers/ fascia for door and base (Component C)

(Not shown in illustrations)

Piece No. Size Quantity

1 30" x 13.5" 2

2 30" x 12" 2

3 30" x 30.5" 1

Hardware List

Piece

No. Type Quantity

H1 2" x 11⁄2" flush-mount hinge 4

H2 3" draw latch 1

H3 No. 10 x 3" wood screws 60

H4* No. 8 x 1⁄2" bugle head wood screws 60

H5 No. 6 x 1" finishing nails 1lb

H6 No. 8 x 1⁄2" pan head wood screws 20

H7 30" x 1 1⁄2" piano hinge 1

*can substitute No. 6 11⁄2" finishing nails

Cutting List

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8835/cuttinglist6al.jpg

 

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/6843/figure27nc.jpg

 

The supports and optional lower doors

section can be assembled next. This is

merely a four-piece framework, made

from 2 by 4s. The holes for the screws will

need to be pre-drilled and countersunk as

they were in the base framework.

Assemble them with 3" No. 10 wood

screws.

 

http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/4074/figure32ug.jpg

 

Now attach the sheathing to the outside

of the base with finishing nails 3⁄4" to

1" in length. You can now, if you wish, fill

the countersink holes with either dowel

rods cut and sanded flush or with filler

putty. If you choose to enclose the lower

section, attach the doors to the base with

hinges as specified in the drawings. The

base can now be set aside until later.

Next, turn your attention to the cabinet.

Start by laying the back out on a flat

surface. Prepare the sides by applying glue

to the mating surfaces. These can be

attached using 11⁄2" #8 bugle-head screws

or can be nailed with finishing nails. If

you are using finishing nails and a hammer,

you will need to clamp the parts

until the glue has time to set. (Screws and

pneumatic nailing will not require clamping.)

After this, prep and attach the top,

then the bottom, to the cabinet. The

result should be a large box.

Assemble the dividers to the shelf

(before inserting them into the cabinet).

When marking the shelf for placement of

the dividers, transfer the marks to the

inside of the top (this way, there will be

no need for squares later on). All of these

pieces should be assembled with glue and

fasteners. Be sure to run a row of fasteners

down the back of the cabinet at the

shelf, too. This will give the support

needed to prevent the shelf from sagging

under a load. Cubbys are shown in drawings

but shelving can be easily modified

to meet your needs. If you plan on applying

a finish to the cabinet, now is a good

time to do it. Be sure to finish the folddown

front at the same time.

Once all this is done, you can attach

the cabinet to the base. Use 11⁄2" No. 8

bugle-head screws in at least the four corners

and along the back every 12". Now

assemble the front to the base using the

drawings as a guide. Use 1⁄2" No. 8 panhead

wood screws or the hardware

provided with your hinge set. Attach the

draw latch to the top of the cabinet centered

across the top according to the

manufacturer’s instructions and you

should be finished.

Open the doors to 90 degrees from

closed, unlatch and lower the cabinet

front until it rests on the open doors, and

presto, the bench is in operation. This

cabinet is both strong and space saving.

You can add a power strip to the cabinet

or the base, and a swing-arm light can be

easily installed on the top!

 

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/3207/figure41rs.jpg

 

 

Yan! meron na kayong work bench! /no1

Link to comment

Could somebody give me tips on what airbrush to buy and where i can buy it? What's a decent budget to allocate for an airbrush set? Did a few models before in grade school and highschool, but i always used the spray cans for painting. Thing is, the spray cans don't really offer that much control when it comes to detailing. thanks!

Link to comment
Could somebody give me tips on what airbrush to buy and where i can buy it? What's a decent budget to allocate for an airbrush set? Did a few models before in grade school and highschool, but i always used the spray cans for painting. Thing is, the spray cans don't really offer that much control when it comes to detailing. thanks!

 

I would recommend the Tamiya Sprayworks. It has a decent airbrush and a decent compressor. I got mine for about 3K a few years ago. Next for me would be a Badger, one of the gravity feed ones, but you will need a decent compressor, not one of those small ones for pumping tires or those diaphragm compressors. I have a Badger 150 and I got it for about 3K then a 1/2 HP compressor with a holding tank for 7K.

 

BTW does anyone know where I can buy sandpaper with grit of 1800 up to 10000?

 

Also, anyone where I can get 3M Acryl Blue?

Link to comment

With the cockpit section assembled and painted, it's usually best to start working on the wheels, landing gears and weapons. Even if the description tells you differently, you might as well start on this task right away, because cleaning up drop tanks, missiles and bombs can be quite time consuming. This is even more true for aircraft such as the F-14 Tomcat, carrying a ton of missiles. I like to file down the fins of the missiles as much as I can, so that they won't look like they are made of two inches thick armor plate.

 

Before joining the fuselage halves, there are a few things to take care of. I recommend that you spray the entire inside of the model black or dark gray. Discovering that you can see naked unpainted plastic through air scoops and other small apertures is not something you want to do. Also don't forget to check if there will be some areas where you can see through the model. On some jet fighter models, sometimes you can actually peek through the jet intakes and see the light at the end of the jet pipe. To prevent this awful effect, either glue sheets of styrene cards, or at least put some stuffing material inside the fuselage.

 

It is also important to check the weight center of the model. Especially for tricycle landing gears it is important that the weight center is ahead of the main landing gears, or the model will not sit correctly on the main gears and the nosewheel, but instead on the main gears and the model's tail. A few bolts or lead weights in the nose cone takes care of this. Just make sure that the weights are firmly attached, or they might shake loose during the consecutive building steps and rattle inside the model - very annoying!

 

If you can, try to place the cockpit tub in position at the same time as you join the fuselage halves. If you first glue the cockpit tub onto one half of the fuselage (as it is often described in the instructions), you risk ending up with a very nasty and hard-to-conceal gap appearing on the other side.

 

Assembling the fuselage halves, the wing halves and the wings to the fuselage is a very pleasant step - it is the first time that you can apprehend the size and the shapes of the model. But it can also be a tricky step as you will have to glue quite large pieces of plastic together, and it is just all too easy to mess up! Also make sure that the fit is as close to perfect as it's possible. Practice dry-fitting the parts at least two or three times before start squeezing the glue.

 

Once the parts are joined but before the glue has cured, check all the mating lines, so that the parts are not offset a little bit. It's best to examine the mating lines in a strong light source coming from the side. If you miss this part, you will later have to perform some very hard filling, sanding and panel line rescribing sessions to remedy the problem.

 

Even the best model and the most careful dry-fitting will often result in a "seam" or join line between the assembled parts. Removing the seams and join lines is essential for the model to look as a fine replica of a real life object, and not just a bunch of plastic parts sloppily glued together.

 

Some assemblies almost always tend to result in unnatural gaps or cracks between the parts. Usual problem areas are for instance the wing roots (where the wings meet the fuselage of the aircraft) and the mating line between the left and the right part of the fuselage. If left unattended, these areas will give your model a rather "toy-like" appearance.

 

Getting rid of these areas is really not a hard or complicated work, but it will take time, patience and a few tools: a sharp model knife (X-Acto knife), some wet-and-dry sandpaper of various grades (600 - 1500 grade), model putty, primer and a paint brush or an airbrush.

 

Sometimes - on more expensive Japanese models - only some scraping with the back of the blade is needed to make the worst mating lines disappear. But on other models, several filling and sanding sessions must often be done.

Link to comment
yun ang wala ko patient....kaya nagbebenta na lang me.....

 

 

Buddy are you a seller or distrbutor or collector?

If you are selling maybe I can pass you some of my collectors series? WHat kind of potential buyers do you have?

1. collector's------simple average price 30 to 0 US$ only

2. collector's------average average price 50 to 100 US$ only

3. collector's------serious average price sky the limit.

 

You can help me sell my collections if you got serious buyers in your hand and in return I can give you around 10 percent of the seal sales.

 

 

my collections items mostly limited toys, series by year and by artist.

other collections are scouting uniform and items around the world (price depends on the year and quantity it have produce)

Badges

Link to comment

You should always try to eliminate gaps and seams as much as you possibly can. To fill the gaps, most often you will need some filling material, or model putty.

 

Different modelers swear by different brands of putty, but some of the most common brands are Tamiya and Italeri Stucco Putty. They are both readily available in hobby stores and can be used straight out of the tube.

 

Other ones (such as Milliput) are so called two-component epoxy putties where two fluids must be mixed to correct proportions before you can use them.

 

Which one you like the most is really up to your personal preferences and their intended usage. For general gap filling I recommend single component putties, as they are quite easy to use.

 

Model putty doesn't just adhere to the plastic like play-doh, but it contains chemicals (most often toluene) that will slightly melt the plastic surface so the putty can become almost a part of the plastic itself. Very effective indeed, but you should be aware of the fact that toluene is a highly toxic chemical. It is needless to say that you should have plenty of ventilation around your working space when working with hazardous chemicals.

 

To apply the putty, just put a dab on a knife, and wipe it along the seam to get an even coverage without bubbles or lumps. Don't apply more putty than what's absolutely necessary, or you will just have to wait longer for it to dry and have more work sanding off the excess.

 

This method works best on larger areas that need to be filled. For minor filling work or for filling in areas that are hard to reach, there is a better method. Mix a little acetone (nail polish remover) and putty in a small container, such as a Coke bottle cap. The mix should be quite thin, because it will thicken incredibly fast as the acetone evaporates.

 

Use a cheap brush to "paint" the mix on where needed. You will find that the mix runs very easily into all the cracks and nooks you want to fill.

 

When the gaps have been filled and the putty is dry, you are in for a boring but nevertheless necessary task; you must now sand the filled joins. Start with 800 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper and gradually work you way down to 1200 or even 1500 grit sandpaper.

 

Be very careful not to sand off too much plastic, or you may ruin the subtle shapes of your model. Take frequent breaks and check the parts under a strong light source so you can spot the rough areas still in need for some sanding. Keep the sandpaper wet all the time, or you may end up with ugly and hard-to-remove scratches on the plastic surfaces.

 

As you sand off the excess putty, you will notice that the putty has almost become a part of the plastic and conceals the gap very effectively. Since all putty has a slight tendency to shrink and crack, you may find small cracks and tiny bubbles in the putty. Just put on another thin layer of putty to fill these tiny imperfections and sand it flush one more time.

 

When you feel happy about the filled areas, wash the model under running water to remove all the sanding residue. I sometimes even use a Scotch Brite pad to carefully rub off the most stubborn sanding particles.

 

Even if the putty probably has a different color than the plastic parts, it will not be visible once the model has been painted. But it may make it quite hard to spot remaining cracks and imperfections.

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One technique I use in checking if there are small holes yet to be filled when filling gaps with putty or super glue is to use a black marker. After sanding the filled section, I run a marker pen lightly over the sanded area, let the ink dry (dries very fast, so just a short wait), then sand the marker ink off. The ink will fill in the holes and gaps, so it's now easy to see where to fill in.

 

Anyone interested in Metalizers? I still have a few bottles.

Link to comment
One technique I use in checking if there are small holes yet to be filled when filling gaps with putty or super glue is to use a black marker.  After sanding the filled section, I run a marker pen lightly over the sanded area, let the ink dry (dries very fast, so just a short wait), then sand the marker ink off.  The ink will fill in the holes and gaps, so it's now easy to see where to fill in.

 

Anyone interested in Metalizers?  I still have a few bottles.

 

You can also spray it with silver and any imperfections will really show up, use any silver spraycan.

 

I'm looking for SNJ silver for baremetal finishes.

Link to comment
Buddy are you a seller or distrbutor or collector?

If you are selling maybe I can pass you some of my collectors series? WHat kind of potential buyers do you have?

1. collector's------simple    average price 30 to 0 US$ only

2. collector's------average  average price  50 to 100 US$ only

3. collector's------serious    average price sky the limit.

 

You can help me sell my collections if you got serious buyers in your hand and in return I can give you around 10 percent of the seal sales.

my collections items mostly limited toys, series by year and by artist.

other collections are scouting uniform and items around the world  (price depends on the year and quantity it have produce)

Badges

 

 

Do u have pics so I can display it.

 

U only accept USD no PHP?

Link to comment
You can also spray it with silver and any imperfections will really show up, use any silver spraycan.

 

I'm looking for SNJ silver for baremetal finishes.

 

 

Nice advice there, Dr. Pepper....

 

as a returning hobbyist....nangangapa ako sa pag pintura ng models ko. Now natapos ko na ma-buo ang eroplano (bi-plane) im using putty (as u advised) to fill the gaps. Whats the next step? do i apply paint primer? ano ba ang silver paint na sinasabi mo?

 

btw...how come iba ang price sa Lil's Parksquare (medyo mahal) keysa sa ibang outlets?

 

thanks for the good advice!

Link to comment
Nice advice there, Dr. Pepper....

 

as a returning hobbyist....nangangapa ako sa pag pintura ng models ko.  Now natapos ko na ma-buo ang eroplano (bi-plane) im using putty (as u advised) to fill the gaps.  Whats the next step? do i apply paint primer?  ano ba ang silver paint na sinasabi mo?

 

btw...how come iba ang price sa Lil's Parksquare (medyo mahal) keysa sa ibang outlets?

 

thanks for the good advice!

 

Saludo din ako sa yo! Takot ako sa biplanes, may phobia ako sa rigging eh.

 

The next step is thoroughly cleaning your model to prepare it for the paint. If you are painting it with a light color and the plastic is dark, it might be good to apply a basecoat or primer of light gray. It isn't necessary to put primer, basically your basecoat will act as one. A primer will provide better coverage for hobby paints though. I usually primer with Painter's Touch spraycans, since these are relatively cheaper than the Tamiya spray cans (I used to get Painter's Touch at P140 per can), then use Tamiya acrylics over it.

 

The only other outlets Lils has is the one in Megamall and one in Southmall. Ask them for a discount if you pay in cash.

 

Keep on modelling!

Edited by Dr_PepPeR
Link to comment
How can you create those Sea Water Effects for Ship models?

 

Calm water is easy, just paint the base green/brown and apply gloss clear paint over it.

 

For sea water effects it is a bit more difficult. You have to use a sculpting medium, like sculpey, milliput, plaster of paris etc, and try to form the waves, then paint it appropriately, using white for the froth. One of the simpler ones I've seen was using resin, like the way they used to make the decorations for papier mache vases. You mix the fluid resin together, apply color to it then pour it into the base a few layers at a time (you have to do it in stages so that the plastic kit embedded in it will not melt). After pouring the top layer, put crumpled aluminum foil over it, this will simulate the ripple effect of a vast expanse of sea. Let it cool and viola! Seawater effect!

Edited by Dr_PepPeR
Link to comment

Dr. Pepper idol talaga kita di ka lang sa chicks matinik pati sa modelling hehehehe....

 

tanong pare....okay pa rin ba gumamit ng brush...medyo old school yon e...classic ika nga...(pero i know spray is the best and easier way)

 

tanong no.2 pare....me iba ka bang name dito sa MTC...isa sa mga dating batang SL? hehehe...

Link to comment
Dr. Pepper idol talaga kita di ka lang sa chicks matinik pati sa modelling hehehehe....

 

tanong pare....okay pa rin ba gumamit ng brush...medyo old school yon e...classic ika nga...(pero i know spray is the best and easier way) 

 

tanong no.2 pare....me iba ka bang name dito sa MTC...isa sa mga dating  batang SL? hehehe...

 

Bro, iba yata kakilala mo eh, di ako matinik sa chicks, kulang nga eh hehehe...

 

Up to now I still prefer using a brush for the following reasons:

 

1. Nakakatamad mag set up ng airbrush.

2. Nakakatamad mag linis ng airbrush.

3. Hindi ka pwede mag airbrush sa loob ng bahay.

4. I find that using washes/tints make more realistic finishes. Since I am primarily an armor modeller, my builds are heavily weathered. I can do big area washes and pinpoint washes with different sized brushes. And I always paint in layers. Brushing may not cover everything in one pass, but since I always to several coats of paint, it doesn't matter. Most of the time I use a spraycan to primer anyway, and priming it helps ensure good coverage when you use brushes.

5. You can only do detail painting with brushes.

 

I used to have another name here but I had to ditch it when somebody got really makulit. Visiting faculty lang ako sa SL, sabi sa yo di naman ako matinik noh?

Link to comment
huling tanong na lang (for now) boss doctor pepper....

 

anong brand ng primer ang recommendation mo?

 

pag 1/72 scale ba kelangan pa mag primer?  hehehe...sorry beginner talaga ako sa pintura  eh...hehehe.

 

Sir buttakkal, a primer is not a must, a base coat, kahit hindi even ang pagkabrush, OK lang if you are one of those who layers paint.

 

For primers, I would suggest lacquers, most commonly found in spraycans. Lacquers are "hot"paints, meaning they bite/react into the plastic and therefore do not flake or rub off. Tamiya lacquer spraycans would be nice, since they have an extensive line of military colors to choose from, problem is they are expensive for such a small can.

 

If I have to prime (especially for Italeri and Revell kits that have dark green sprues) I usually use Painter's Touch sandable primer, they have it in gray and brown colors but I use the gray. Last time I bought a spraycan (about 3x as big as a Tamiya spraycan) it was about P140.

 

If you find the surface of the plastic too smooth or too rough, then I think you should use primer on 1/72 kits. The only thing you have to watch out for in this scale is if they have recessed panel lines, paint might build up on the lines and lose definition. Of course, you can always rescribe the line with a sewing needle in a pin vise.

 

And FYI, we all started as beginners before. I still am a beginner though.

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