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Traveling As A Passion


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The rains here reminded me about my Manila-Mindanao trip by bus back five years ago, which started while a storm was just beginning. Anyway, here’s a part of my travel diary.

 

 

Friday, November 12, 1999

6:40pm

 

Tonight, Manila will drown again. The canals will overflow and scatter their contents on the sidewalks and then the streets. This I imagine while weighing both the excitement and boredom of taking a trip to Davao. Not by plane or ship but by bus.

 

That I am not at all disheartened by the typhoon’s wrath is rather surprising since traffic would normally be at a standstill now. Taxis are scarce, although I finally find one.

 

But there’s hardly any traffic on the route that I took because it is a mere 36 minutes to the Philtranco terminal in Pasay from Espana in QC, something I could consider a minor miracle given this pouring downpour.

 

On the way, I recall on my left, on Osmena Avenue, vehicles of all types are seemingly frozen in their tracks. Those that had stopped completely…

 

--to be continued

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…could have been overwhelmed by the sea of rain and sewage, which has possibly dampened the sparkplugs and entered the exhaust pipes as well. Those that are still making headway in the mire should be happy for it is only their upholstery, now a soggy mass, they should worry about.

 

Total travel time to Davao City is usually 44 hours. But this special run will last six days with stops scheduled at 10 provinces and cities.

 

10pm

 

The taxi driver in the movie with the same title said, Thank God for the rain to wash away all the dirt in the streets.” This time I will not agree with him because the endless torrent that began at about mid-afternoon has yet to show signs of abating. Five minutes after pulling out of Pasay in a new Philtranco bus, we are stuck. So much for the minor miracle. I still think it will be smooth sailing from Magallanes. The itinerary indicates that we should be in Sariaya, Quezon jst after midnight for a late supper…

 

Day 2

October 17

12:40am

 

We are at the gas station in San Pedro where a burger chain reigns unchallenged at the time of the night in this type of weather. I’ll give you one guess why we’re here; the traffic was of diabolical proportions. And the rain hasn’t let up at all.

 

About 200 cars are parked here. Many unfortunate souls have just about had it. Children are fast asleep on the arms of mothers. Some of the women, their eyeliners melted by the night, a bit of mucus and, for some, maybe tears as well, smoked in stony silence. Some of the men stayed in the driver’s seat, their bent bodies frozen in the same position when the full extent of tiredness hit them.

 

There were those, however, who were in high spirits. These creatures of the night consumed coffee and chocolates in massive quantities. Most of the men among them, specifically those who were determined to reach their destinations before sunrise, kept themselves awake. No one contemplated one of the most fatal mistakes, that of falling asleep while driving.

 

Because of the chaos, the whole traveling schedule is screwed up. I play a tape on the Walkman and the first song is Jethro Tull’s Hymn 43…to me, listening to rock music is the best way to alleviate the impatience and stress brought about my traffic. We’re doing about three feet every three minutes. Someone suggest watching a movie on the VCR on board. The driver obliges with Six Days, Seven Nights. An hour later, we still have to hit the Carmona exit.

 

4:04am

 

The late supper in Sariaya has now become an early breakfast. We had traveled more than six hours.

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Hello Pareng Sally!

 

May theme park ba jan sa Bangkok? Yung mala-Ocean Park man lang.

I've never been to Bangkok too. on what I've heard...grabe daw ang traffic sa bangkok. ano ang mga attractions dyan pareng sally (yung ala ocean park nga, hindi yung mga girlie bars) .

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continued...

 

....…and everyone on the bus would later have his/her own story to tell on how those hours where whiled away. Many dozed off to their heart’s content at different times. Some really found it difficult to sleep. You could see them, contorting to different forms, which led to my sudden appreciation of the human anatomy’s structure.

 

Other stayed in one position and pretended their very best to sleep. But they could not, because they responded to every sound, to the slightest change in speed or to a sudden gush from the sir ducts that emitted very cold air, especially when someone else moved a duct. A few steadfastly refused any thought of sleep.

 

The press pack on bus 192 consisted of various characters, as would any group composed of writers, reporters, photographers, cameramen and public relations consultants. They were a raucous bunch that saw this trip as an opportunity to relax and see the country while working at the same time.

 

Many had been through it all – the natural and man-made disasters, the endless political intrigues. Most were hardened souls and had accumulated a wealth of experience from years of toiling in their beloved professions. Almost all were smokers too. They would all light up during a stop and blow a cloud of smoke to every direction, almost in unison, and this was certainly enough to awaken those who detested tobacco and had just awakened. By the way, as a matter of utmost necessity, it is important to establish rapport immediately with the person beside you, particularly on a long stretch like this. You might discover later on that you’ll both laugh at the same sex-laced joke.

 

 

6:42am

 

We stop at Gumaca to empty our bladders. The bus is cruising at a comfortable 80 kph on the highway that resembles the contours of a chicken’s intestines. No chance for catching the sun here as far as the photographers are concerned because the gray sky remains blotted by rain, the remnants of a typhoon that entered Infanta the night before and was probably dumping even more rain in Manila. I will now give in to the thought of closing my eyes for a few minutes to allow them to rest.

 

9:27am

 

That was refreshing. I am used to living on naps. And this one was really good. I notice the rain had let up somewhat. “Bicol,” the graphic artist beside me said, as if to answer my mental question of where we are. I ask and the woman in front of me says we are in the town of Ragay, Camarines Sur. On both sides of the highway are those ubiquitous coconut trees. At Sipocot, we stop again for a quick pee.

 

11:35am

 

The sun is shining reluctantly when we reach Naga City, Camarines Sur and it is here where we finally get the chance to wash up. Brunch is served and everyone is in high spirits again despite the delay.

 

First named Nueva Ceceres in 1573 by the Spaniards, Naga (later to become a city) was already a thriving settlement near the Bicol river that was the center of trade in the region. We go around and see some of the sights, which include the Naga Metropolitan Cathedral, the Naga Basilica and the Penafrancia shrine that is honored by a festival held in September annually. In the distance is Mt. Isarog

 

3pm

 

At Iriga City, which lies in the shadow of a volcano with a similar name, we are treated to a cultural presentation and another meal. Not much time left to explore this place but just the same, I can’t help but feel being treated like a king by these gracious folks, our hosts, who have prepared what again seems to be another feast. That’s one of the nicest things one remembers on these journeys. The kindness of men that we will experience at almost every stop more than makes up for any bout with fatigue and fragility.

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Hello Pareng Sally!

 

May theme park ba jan sa Bangkok? Yung mala-Ocean Park man lang.

apreng storm, the theme parks here are not in the same league as hongkong's ocean park. medyo luma and all it has are a zoo, a fake wave, a giant pool, and carnival rides. nothing at all exciting. but there is a snake and crocodile farm that's popular with tourists...ever see a man put his head between the massive jaws of a croc? amazing.

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I've never been to Bangkok too. on what I've heard...grabe daw ang traffic sa bangkok. ano ang mga attractions dyan pareng sally (yung ala ocean park nga, hindi yung mga girlie bars) .

traffic has improved tremendously since i first came in 1991. back then grabe talaga. the economic crisis forced the thais to sell their cars and cut back on purchases. during the boom years (91-94), 4,000 newly registered cars came out on the streets on a daily basis. in 1997, bagsak ang negosyo. but now, just five years later, boom na naman. ang bilis nilang naka-ahon. my friends there sa manila say traffic daw is of diabolical proportions now (ganoon dati dito).

 

the theme parks are not really worth a visit. luma, not properly maintained. most tourists come here to shop and visit the old temples, like the grand palace. the old quarters of the city are nice, since lots of houses and buildings dating back to the 1920s have been preserved. i usually explore the city on foot with my wife. mahilig kasi kami sa ukay-ukay, antiques, memorabilia...any stuff that's old, that's why we go to flea markets. chinatown is great. delicious food, lots of bargains.

 

sabi nga nila, when in bangkok, think of the 4s (sex, shopping, sun and spa).

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traffic has improved tremendously since i first came in 1991. back then grabe talaga. the economic crisis forced the thais to sell their cars and cut back on purchases. during the boom years (91-94), 4,000 newly registered cars came out on the streets on a daily basis. in 1997, bagsak ang negosyo. but now, just five years later, boom na naman. ang bilis nilang naka-ahon. my friends there sa manila say traffic daw is of diabolical proportions now (ganoon dati dito).

 

the theme parks are not really worth a visit. luma, not properly maintained. most tourists come here to shop and visit the old temples, like the grand palace. the old quarters of the city are nice, since lots of houses and buildings dating back to the 1920s have been preserved. i usually explore the city on foot with my wife. mahilig kasi kami sa ukay-ukay, antiques, memorabilia...any stuff that's old, that's why we go to flea markets. chinatown is great. delicious food, lots of bargains.

 

sabi nga nila, when in bangkok, think of the 4s (sex, shopping, sun and spa).

you're right pare...

I was in Bangkok in 1990 and traffic was terrible but when I came back in 2000 mdyo maganda na ng konti. Also ang dami na nilang Skyways kaya ang bilis ng traffic going in and out of Bangkok...the really depressing discovery in that span of ten years was that puro transvestites na sa Patpong but they really look like girls. Four straight nights kaming nagpuyat pumunta sa Patpong and we did not chance upon a single authentic female sa mga bars :P

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...the really depressing discovery in that span of ten years was that puro transvestites na sa Patpong but they really look like girls. Four straight nights kaming nagpuyat pumunta sa Patpong and we did not chance upon a single authentic female sa mga bars :P

that's because bkk is now the unofficial sex change capital of the world. dati singapore, pero ngayon mas mura dito...as you have seen! but don't be depressed...dami pa ditong bars worth a visit.

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...the really depressing discovery in that span of ten years was that puro transvestites na sa Patpong but they really look like girls. Four straight nights kaming nagpuyat pumunta sa Patpong and we did not chance upon a single authentic female sa mga bars :P

that's because bkk is now the unofficial sex change capital of the world. dati singapore, pero ngayon mas mura dito...as you have seen! but don't be depressed...dami pa ditong bars worth a visit.

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pareng sally ang galing nung travelogue mo! I had always been thinking of taking that bus ride from Manila to Davao - but luck and circumstances just won't allow it yet...

pare, you should, to discover just how diverse rp is. masaya pag madami kayo. it'll be almost impossible to visit 7000 + islands, pero 73 provinces sounds feasible. actually, kung straight manila-cdo-davao, mga 30-36 hours by bus.

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Good morning fellow travelers!

 

Had a friend who took his wife and daughter on a road trip one summer. Went from Laguna to Zamboanga on anything but an airplane. Stayed at small hostels and pension houses. Guess what his budget was? Food and drinks inclusive for 3 people..... P15,000!!!!! His name is Radel Paredes and teaches art in USC Cebu.

 

This is a true story :)

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you're right pare...

I was in Bangkok in 1990 and traffic was terrible but when I came back in 2000 mdyo maganda na ng konti. Also ang dami na nilang Skyways kaya ang bilis ng traffic going in and out of Bangkok...the really depressing discovery in that span of ten years was that puro transvestites na sa Patpong but they really look like girls. Four straight nights kaming nagpuyat pumunta sa Patpong and we did not chance upon a single authentic female sa mga bars :P

I agree with this observation. I think the traffic in Manila has now become worse than Bangkok. :angry:

 

If you're not careful, some of those transvestites look even better than some of the women. They can certainly fool the uninitiated. Specially the farangs who are not familiar with Asian male/female features :unsure: Be very careful mga pards . . .

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4:07pm

 

We enter what is touted as the oldest bus terminal in the country. This is where Philtranco – originally known by the acronym ALATCO – was founded in 1914 by Americnas. A.L. Ammen and Max Blouse. The office at the back has been preserved, with the flooring and some of the original furniture still intact and in the same place where they were first positioned. Bits and pieces of a bygone era are displayed at the foyer. And the rooms inside retain the smell of old wood. It’s time for another nap.

 

 

 

6:35pm

 

We sink our teeth into a sumptuous buffet of crabs, barbecue, laing, steamed fish, mussels and lechon. It is the second lechon we encounter is just over 12 hours. Of course everyone goes for the crispy skin first before the flesh. Two hours later, we pat our stomachs, yawn and climb the bus and immediately inhale the freezing air inside as the tropical heat makes its presence felt for the first time. Next stop at around midnight is Legazpi City, Albay.

 

Day 3

October 18

8am

 

For the first time, we slept on a bed. How good it felt. All the aches and pains are gone. We check out after breakfast and head to the famous ruins at Cagsawa, in the town of Daraga (recently renamed Locsin). On the belfry of the church that was built originally in 1587 remains visible.

 

Behind it is the volcano we have surely seen before in countless postcards and pictures. But to be this close to Mt. Mayon, to actually see the peak and the clouds that hover around it is to be convinced of its invincibility. It is massive and wide and let no the serenity lull anyone into believing that something like this can’t be that dangerous. For it is. On Feb. 1, 1814, Mt. Mayon erupted without warning and buried a few towns and several villages in the vicinity. Just this decade, the volcano erupted again and sent the people fleeing. It is always alive and will almost certainly never die.

 

9:30am

 

We hit the highway for the province of Sorsogon, the jump off point for the Visayas, and arrive at the capital with the same name, just before noon, where we’re treated to another hearty lunch. Sorsogon is probably one of the few provinces in the archipelago that has no pronounced dry season. Lying on the southeastern most tip of Luzon, it is frequently hit by typhoons and because of that, the soil is rich, resulting in lush vegetation everywhere.

 

An hour later, we’re on the way to the town of Matnog where we’ll board the ferry for Samar. Mt. Bulusan suddenly appears out of nowhere, while the road extends as far as the eye can see…I recall Joni Mitchels’s Miles of Aisles…and enter the world of dreamers. By the time the bus reaches Matnog Bay, I will have traveled 671 kilometers.

 

5:45pm

 

The Maharlika I ferry glided smoothly on the waters of the San Bernardino Strait, as dusk approached silently. Matnog and the rest of Sorsogon slowly became a blur, obliterated by the cloak of darkness and descending rain.

 

Revitalized by another nap, I check my surroundings and realize that for once, I am not riding on the bus but on one hulk of a ferry.

The Maharlika I originally plied the waters around Japan before it was purchased by a local entrepreneur. Today it moves vehicles, people and cargo to and from Luzon and the Visayas. Like every passenger boat, it has a first class and economy section. There was even a karaoke cum jukebox on board and many of my bus mates had the time of their lives singing their favorites tunes. At some point, the rain became stronger and we all laughed. I decided to stay on deck for the rest of the journey to enjoy the breeze, which to me had a therapeutic effect.

 

7:25pm

The shores and lights of Samar loomed up ahead as we prepared to dock at the port in San Isidro.

 

Samar, the second biggest island in the Visayas, is surrounded by about 200 islands and is composed of three provinces whose development has long been neglected by previous governments. For several years, it has been known as a stronghold of Marxist guerillas who have taken advantage of the island’s rugged terrain and backwater reputation. Consequently, much of the environment has been preserved, making it one of the least visited destinations.

 

We will be driving along the coast on the way to Calbayog City before entering Western Samar and stopping at Catbalogan City, the provincial capital, which we will probably reach just after midnight.

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apreng storm, the theme parks here are not in the same league as hongkong's ocean park. medyo luma and all it has are a zoo, a fake wave, a giant pool, and carnival rides. nothing at all exciting. but there is a snake and crocodile farm that's popular with tourists...ever see a man put his head between the massive jaws of a croc? amazing.

Thanks Pareng Sally for the info. I really want to go back to Bangkok but my forever bride doesn't want to. For her, once is enough, there are other place to go to. Me, I'm more fond of people than places. I'm willing to travel long distance just to be with people dear to me.

 

I have a dear cousin who's been there since 1972. He's a journalist and lives near the Chao Phya River.

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Ganoon ba? I'll PM na lang sa iyo. I'll ask his permission muna. Or you can PM me yung mga kakilala mo na nabubuhay sa panulat jan.

 

One thing I can say is that he's well traveled, been to almost all the best destination. Kaya lang he liked Thailand most so he settled there.

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that's because bkk is now the unofficial sex change capital of the world. dati singapore, pero ngayon mas mura dito...as you have seen! but don't be depressed...dami pa ditong bars worth a visit.

I heard about those sex change thingies and the way it was described makes you think why they have to go through that ordeal :P

 

Well we had no guide in 2000 so we were wary of going into unfamiliar places then...

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